Door checks CHANGE THEM! all models - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #1 12-23-2010, 07:59 PM

For those not familiar with the terminology,
the door check is the strap that allows the mb door to stay in position when opened, and attaches to the jam of the door in the hinge area with a pin.
my 82 SD has been difficult to open the rear door since it got cold. it'd pop and complain, and not open all the way...
today, getting my daughter out, a nice dime bomber ball bearing shot across my floorboard... I'll get a pic of it when I find the sucker.
I looked over the check, and notice it has a small bend to the arm that attaches to the jam.
I've locked the door shut, and will not use it until I have a new check to install. I will take pics, and show DIY how to remove the door panel, and the check when I get it.
It's not a good idea to continue to use a door with a problematic check. they have been known to seize in the open position, and each time a sticking check is opened and closed, the thin sheetmetal that the arm is attached to flexes back and forth, and WILL result in cracked metal, and a rust point entry in your vehicle!

in a 140 general strap info

kerry · #2 12-23-2010, 08:23 PM

Another option is to pull the failing check out and use the door without a check until a new one arrives.

vstech · #3 12-23-2010, 08:33 PM

yeah, but taking apart the panel, removing the check, and putting the panel back on (to keep out the cold!) then doing it again after the new one arrives doesn't appeal to me.

Inner Door Panel Removal DIY Links
Inner Door Panel Removal DIY Links

thayer · #4 12-23-2010, 08:51 PM

Dude, that repair is a pain in the drain. I remember doing it in the cold...I'm sure things break just as much when its warm....but my check strap broke when it was cold and that was annoying.

If I remember correctly, the hardest part is getting the retaining pin off the chassis, or it might have been getting the frame to line up with the screwholes...WORKS GREAT NOW.

kerry · #5 12-23-2010, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

yeah, but taking apart the panel, removing the check, and putting the panel back on (to keep out the cold!) then doing it again after the new one arrives doesn't appeal to me.

I got my check strap out without fully removing the panel. I just loosened the bottom and got a box end wrench in there to take out the bolts. I was stuck with the door open on a narrow street so needed to get it done quickly and couldn't drive it until I did.

vstech · #6 12-23-2010, 09:40 PM

ya, having it stuck open is what I'm going to avoid with locking the door shut! I hope you didn't break any of the plastic alignment clips just opening the bottom of the panel! some of the door panels need to be lifted up to clear their plastic molded clips from the panel. the SD rear door is one of them!
also the D front door has clips that hold the storage tray in place and it will get broken if correct procedure is not followed in removal of the panel!

Zacharias · #7 12-23-2010, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

It's not a good idea to continue to use a door with a problematic check. they have been known to seize in the open position, and each time a sticking check is opened and closed, the thin sheetmetal that the arm is attached to flexes back and forth, and WILL result in cracked metal, and a rust point entry in your vehicle!

in a 140 general strap info

What he said. I popped a nice hole in the A-pillar of a w126 from ignoring a door check that was seizing up. The repair looked like hell.

andrewtexas123 · #8 12-23-2010, 11:53 PM

Is this the part that could be causeing the resistence in my back doors? Also when they get to a certain point they pop?

vstech · #9 12-23-2010, 11:54 PM

Yup. that's the thing.
click on my link above next to the 140 link.

Aquaticedge · #10 12-24-2010, 12:20 AM

3 of the 4 of mine are broke. they dont pop and complain, but the doors dont hold open.. it's a pain

muleears · #11 12-24-2010, 07:02 AM

The top white square highlights the diagonal crack that extends through the mounting hole. The lower one has a vertical crack that is difficult to see. Both of these were pushed out and had to be bent back into position so the new check could be installed. This is only a temporary fix. The way it is will not hold well, but at least the door is easy to open and doesn't pop anymore. This is the drivers door in a '85 123.

Beastie · #12 12-24-2010, 08:27 AM

I posted a thread about this a few weeks ago. In a hurry going to get teeth pulled and when I went to close door it would not move. In a hurry so I sat in the driver seat grabbed the handle and pulled. POP!! door closed but now does not stay open. VSTech I think you answered me on that one. Anyway I have not changed it out yet but I will soon.

geoffreymbrown · #13 12-24-2010, 08:52 AM

wow -- what a timely thread. I drove to Atlanta from Indiana on
Monday to visit family. At the last minute, I decided to carry a large
box of spares with me. Then Wednesday, one of my doors wouldn't
close -- check strap failed. Fortunately, I had a new one in the box
of spares.

On the w124 series, it's a pretty easy fix. The hardest part is getting
the door panel back on -- four hands needed here -- to make sure
all the clips are properly aligned. If you have to force anything, it's
not aligned.

Geoffrey

Traveling in a 24 year old car is an adventure !

tankowner · #14 12-24-2010, 10:50 AM

The check on one of the rear doors of my 240D is busted in half - like that when I bought it - seems like an odd place to break. The other is getting difficult to close. Guess I need to change them both out.

wildest · #15 12-24-2010, 11:07 AM

Any noise or extra resistance, or lack of resistance means the checks straps need replacing. It's also a good time to do the door seal, as you have to disconnect the check strap at the pillar to do either of these things. Use a door panel removal tool, the nylon clips that hold the panel to the door are reusable, but don't be heavy handed. And make sure the vapor barrier is in good shape. I replaced mine with 1.5 mil trash bag held in place with kindergarten stick glue (all I had, and it works), single layer trimmed to fit the basic shape of the inside of the panel. On the 123 the metal clips across the top of the door panel need to be pulled off the panel and mounted on the doors so that the top of the panel will be snug under the window (more important on the rears, if I remember correctly).