Fuel Tank issue, vacuum & electric issues. W201-1984-190d-5 spd
 

We have a wonderful recent acquisition to our ministry.

1984 190d 5 spd which has an issue with fuel. At about 1/4 tank - the engine starves for fuel. I checked the sending unit which is easy to get to and it checks out OK. Need advise on the fuel pick-up location. Has anyone else had this issue and a solution?

Vacuum: 4 Doors, gas door and trunk locks don't work automatically. When the drivers door is unlocked or locked, there is a motor noise for about 45 seconds.

Electric: tail lights sometimes don't come on until I tap them. I cleaned and applied a no-corrode compound to bulbs, sockets and push-on connectors and still have the issues.

Interior front dome lights don't come on and no voltage at the light wires. Center dash lights don't come on.

Fuse box cover seems impossible to remove to check fuses. Front latch works and top latch releases but the cover only open in the front.

Also looking for parts/parts car for interior dash face plate for switches (broken through), seats are flat, etc.

Engine, trans and body in excellent condition!

SEEKING 1979 - 1985 diesel cars to make a fleet of cars available to needy Widows and families with fatherless children. Please donate. We will supply free BioDiesel to these families from our processor.

Karl Alan, CEO Manager
Ponderosa Serenity Ministries
SE Florida

Welcome to the forum! I'm sure you'll be very happy here, we are a very helpful bunch!
my local Pull apart has several 201's in decent condition, I need to pull parts for Roy, and a few others as soon as the snow goes away... I can add your needs to the list if you PM me with them.

I have much experience with the 190D, and maybe I can help. Locks: there is a pump under the back seat bottom that supplies pressure/vacuum to each door to lock/unlock. It appears that it is working electrically, so that is good. There may be a hose loose somewhere, or the pump itself is bad. Remove the back seat bottom and cover on lock unit (passenger side), and check that all hoses are connected. It is best to use a vacuum tester, but you could just feel the pressure/vacuum on the end of the removed hose while moving the lock knob up and down. Check all hoses under the floor mats. More replies by others, or myself later (need to eat dinner).

There is a wire loop on top of the cover. The trick is to squeeze it near the rear so the ends move together and out from the holes that the ends are in (hard to explain, but you will figure it out). Kind of a dumb design IMO. Good luck getting it back on! I think I tried for a half an hour one time and finally got it.

Here's what I'd do: work on the vacuum system (check for leaks with a hand held pump "mityvac"), remove all the fuses, clean the contacts in the fuse box, replace with new fuses, work on fuel system. Given the time of year, it can be a good time to check the fuel filters: pre-filter (strainer in the bottom of the fuel tank), primary filter (clear plastic filter with a metal or plastic mesh - in the engine compartment), and the secondary filter (spin on, metal filter near the front of the engine). Make sure these are secured well and the proper o-rings are in the proper locations. Air bubbles should not be seen in the clear filter, although it may appear half filled at times (which is normal). The fuel system is self bleeding, but when you do replace filters, it helps to fill the primary before placing it and to undo the injector lines at the injectors while cranking (they'll start to spurt fuel when the air is mostly out). Then you can tighten them up and let the car start in a more normal fashion. Don't let the diesel get everywhere, though. It isn't too friendly with rubber things like engine mounts.

This would also be a good time to check the injection lines for plastic and rubber clips that hold them in place. This keeps them from vibrating excessively and breaking (which is not fun...).

Exploded parts views with parts numbers are here: http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/

It's free and quite handy. Just punch in your VIN or put in the appropriate vehicle type.

It has a fuel screen in the bottom of the tank. It is removed with a large socket (32mm I think?). Large slip joint pliers or adjustable wrench can be used as well, but not as easy. After all the fuel is drained (VERY important), the supply hose is removed. You may get lucky if the hose fitting is tight in the fuel screen fitting, and they both come out together. You can then separate them apart from the tank (easy to do). The screen (and tank) can be cleaned and then installed. It is suggested to replace all the rubber hoses when using Bio Fuel. You can either get an MB replacement hose (it has a special fitting), or grind off the sleeve from the brass fitting on the old hose, and replace the hose with Bio compatible hose and good clamps. If a clean tank and screen does not solve the fuel starvation problems, then I would look to the lift pump or a stuck/clogged fuel heater/thermostat. I assume you already changed the filters.

Welcome KarlAlan,
As you have probably realized by now, we are a friendly helpful group.
You may find that you have an air leak in the fuel line prior to the lift pump that is causing your fuel issue. It is also possible that some one has swapped the fuel supply & return lines. Probably the result of a blocked strainer at some point. If you have a clean strainer & a clean supply line, I would swap the lines & see if the problem goes away.
If the vac line to the fuel lid lock comes off it will stop the lid lock & the trunk lock from working properly.

Good luck with the car !!!!

I read somewhere on the startek site that the info starts at 1994 model year. Is that correct? It also will NOT support Mac computers (DRAT!).

Update from the Author
 

THANK you to all who replied. Found a plethra of parts here on SE Florida U-Pull-It yards and replaced the seat materials and many other parts that were missing. The fuel issue was a clogged primary filter in the tank. Still have issues with the electric circuit #13 blowing fuses. Need help there. Started a new link.

Again, thank you all http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ons/icon14.gif
Karl

Karl, I do not have 190D experience, but have learned much from this forum to help me service our various 300 Diesels. I clicked on your thread because the title was perfect. All the information needed, clear and concise. Excellent initial thread post and follow up. So often thread titles are confusing, and lack helpful info. Some dont make sense until 5-6 posts deep. Many other threads offer no closure to those sitting at home on the edge of our seats, biting our nails in anticipation of the glorious moment where the initial poster runs around the room giving forum members virtual high fives ! Victory !

God bless you for helping the needy and less fortunate and exposing them to better life through alternative fuels.



Rolly, sounds like a great time to upgrade to a PC ! :D

Been there, done that, bought the T shirt, read the book, etc, etc, etc. As the saying goes: One you go Mac, you won't go back.

Thread Hijack !
 

Perhaps, but like anything in this expansive world, there are pros and cons. you clearly have wandered into the realm of a con.

Not trying to influence you, just making a good hearted comment to perhaps bring a smile. ;)

We do not have a Mac at home, but may some time soon as I further explore video and photo editing. For now we have a few windows machines and a couple Linux boxes to keep us entertained.

And to think, it was once (Brilliantly) said that there would be no need for more than a few super computers in the world. :eek: (ie: you'd NEVER see one in the private home).


Enjoy.

Fuel tank, the to and from lines may be reversed to the tank (probably to get around a stopped up tank screen).