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  #16  
Old 12-31-2010, 02:03 PM
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they have similar designs, but it looks like 573 is a little higher temp capable. I'd stick with the 573

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  #17  
Old 12-31-2010, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
what's the difference between 573 (what the fsm is asking for in the original post) and 574 both state they are for anaerobic metal joining sealant
Data for 573 and 574
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/573-EN.PDF
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/574-EN.PDF


Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
they have similar designs, but it looks like 573 is a little higher temp capable. I'd stick with the 573
If I read the above data sheet correctly, it appears 574 is stronger even at higher temperatures.


ISO 4587 Lap Shear Strength for 573 is 190 psi and 574 is 1,230 PSI.
Testing percentage of initial strength when aged at 150C flat lines to 50% for 573 at about 1500 hours vs. about a 79% flat line for 574 after 250 hours.




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  #18  
Old 12-31-2010, 02:56 PM
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FSM for OM602 calls for Loctite 574 on T.C. Flange.

Picture credit to GSXR

Loctite 574
Attached Thumbnails
Rear main seal-screenhunter_01-dec.-31-14.55.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 12-31-2010, 09:48 PM
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cool. I want a tube of the stuff with a MB label on it.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #20  
Old 03-10-2011, 09:59 PM
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Ok, got the freeze plugs in and rear main seal in. Should I loctite the bolts on the rear seal ?
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  #21  
Old 03-10-2011, 10:18 PM
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unnecessary, They will never leak... but whatever works for you.

...also, there is no oil pressure on the seal.
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  #22  
Old 03-11-2011, 12:10 PM
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How much "taken apart" do you have to do to replace the rear main seal? I have my engine out now. (617-952) Does the crank have to be completely removed?
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  #23  
Old 03-11-2011, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I had to order my tube from the snapon truck. it's possible you can order it at advance or NAPA might have it... not sure.
NAPA carries it under a different brand. Note however, that it must have contact with iron to work, otherwise it will not harden. If you do not have iron on either side you will have to spray the surface first with the activator (it uses ions from the iron to harden).
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  #24  
Old 03-11-2011, 01:23 PM
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On the 60x you have to remove the flex-plate/flywheel, and the stretch bolts should be renewed.
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  #25  
Old 03-11-2011, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by babymog View Post
On the 60x you have to remove the flex-plate/flywheel, and the stretch bolts should be renewed.
What will happen if I use the old bolts?
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  #26  
Old 03-11-2011, 03:34 PM
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Depends. If they're the straight-shank stretch bolts or the other stretch bolts. Since the torque process involves a torque and an angle-torque the bolts have to stretch to properly tighten. If the re-useable ones (not the straight-shank stretch bolts) then they have to be within spec (length) to re-use. If you re-use the wrong ones or beyond-spec ones there is danger of them breaking.

Bolts are not that expensive, failures are.
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  #27  
Old 05-13-2011, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
How much "taken apart" do you have to do to replace the rear main seal? I have my engine out now. (617-952) Does the crank have to be completely removed?
I have the same question. I have the pan off, and decided to replace the rear main while it was accessible.
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  #28  
Old 05-14-2011, 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I have the same question. I have the pan off, and decided to replace the rear main while it was accessible.
Yes the crank does have to be removed.... Or at the very least, the main caps removed and crank is lifted (while engine is upside down) enough to remove and replace the upper rope seal.



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  #29  
Old 05-14-2011, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Yes the crank does have to be removed.... Or at the very least, the main caps removed and crank is lifted (while engine is upside down) enough to remove and replace the upper rope seal.



.
There is a big difference between "removing the crank" (basically disassembling the entire engine), and "Or at the very least, the main caps removed and crank is lifted (while engine is upside down) enough to remove and replace the upper rope seal". I have the engine out and on an engine stand in my garage. I am going to try and replace the rope seal by removing the main caps and raising the crank. I will take photos and post them.

I have searched this forum to try and find out if anyone has been successful and tried this, but nothing found. I have heard talk about the possibility, but no final results.
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  #30  
Old 05-14-2011, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
There is a big difference between "removing the crank" (basically disassembling the entire engine), and "Or at the very least, the main caps removed and crank is lifted (while engine is upside down) enough to remove and replace the upper rope seal". I have the engine out and on an engine stand in my garage. I am going to try and replace the rope seal by removing the main caps and raising the crank. I will take photos and post them.

I have searched this forum to try and find out if anyone has been successful and tried this, but nothing found. I have heard talk about the possibility, but no final results.
Just for the fun of it I'm interested to hear how you get on - I posted some information and picture of a pin at the bottom of the rear crank groove as an answer to your question on this thread:-

Fitting rear crankshaft seal on an OM617

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