2nd 240d for us. 4 speed. supposedly po ran engine low on oil and ruined it. put used 4 cyl from another 240 with similar mileage (160k). also replaced glow plugs and gp relay. starts and runs great. good oil pressure. gets around 28 mpg.

#1 doesn't smoke that much but burns a lot of oil. 5 or 6 quarts in 3k miles. mostly low speed hilly miles.

#2 fan switch for heater gets very hot to touch.

#3 doesn't have a right outside mirror. has a chrome flat plate. makes parallel parking interesting.

#4 fan belt broke on highway several months ago. temp gauge got high but not pegged before got car stopped. now radiator level drops to top of fins every 5-7 days. can't find leak. some on ground, no water in oil. doesn't seem to be coming out of wp hole.

#5 this just started: when shifting, rev's take forever to come down. cold or warm, medium or high rev's, just takes longer than before. daughter's car so i don't drive it often. not sure if it is related to broken belt incident.

i love these little cars. none of these is catastrophic, just annoying.
any comments are appreciated.

#5 is easy; lube the throttle linkages, they tend to get sticky.

thanks, one down, four to go.

#3 mine came without one too- get one from a junkyard or if you can't find one PM me as I probably have one.

#4- mine also does the same thing. For awhile I kept topping it of until I got tired of it and let it go, and guess what? it will stay at that level! I think that is normal as it doesn't have an expansion tank so the fluid needs room to expand in the radiator.

#5- just a thought, but check that the dash knob that you turn to increase the idle for cold starts is functioning properly- maybe stuck on high idle?

Sounds like you check the oil and water regularly so if it is like my 240D it should last you a long time.

__________________
1984 300TD 1981 240D

Where's the water on the ground falling?

Is it under the radiator cap by any chance?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

it ends up back under the middle of the engine with a little more towards the right (passenger) side. tried to follow it up the block but can't find a source.

That could be the drain plug on the block if you are lucky but it might be a core plug...

Check along the length of the block under the manifolds - all of those bits are kind of between the manifolds and the starter motor solenoid.

If you still can't locate the origin may be taping (dry) toilet paper to the bits where you think the leak may be will help. You can easily see when this stuff gets wet!

EDIT - bog roll can catch on fire when it is dry!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The heater valve and heater hoses are also on the side of the engine, take a look at those.

thanks for the input. since the po changed engines there might be a connection that didn't get tightened. i think i will wipe down that side of the block and then run it to check the plugs.

i dont think the fan switch has been addressed so... Some heat is normal, a shorting motor can cause excessive heat in all associated wiring including the switch, corrosion/burns in switch can cause high resistance also creating heat. There is a problem, just need to check and see if wires are hot or if it is just in the switch. hope i helped some.

And oil consumption, many possiable causes. most likely two i think would be stuck rings which is common with age and overheating. Try half a quart of atf in the oil that can help free things up but might also dislodge sludge around seals so watch out for leaks. also there is a oil seperator inbetween intake and valve cover, if it gets clogged could just be bypassing oil right into the intake which could also cause slow return to idle issues.