The risk of breaking a stud or the o-ring not seating correctly are my primary concerns.

I was think - oh yeah right how often have people snapped studs on the oil filter housing until I did this search in google:-

oil filter stud site:peachparts.com

And bugger am I now scared! Well not really but I suppose this modification has some merit though an upside down spin on filter? Yeah right - no thanks - and unless the oil filter has a non return valve in it (not all of the cheap ones do) every time you switch off the engine all the oil will pour back into the pan. Won't it?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The filter base has a check valve. But, the stem of the filter lid seals the bypass drain so that air can be vented out of the housing but oil can't. Thats why people often complain of a long time to build oil pressure when starting and the first suggestion is to change the o-rings on the stem.

What that guy does to prevent draining through the stem hole is unknown. I doubt he leaves it open, that would be a massive pressure loss point. But if he closes it off entirely then air con only be vented by running though the system...but if he leaves a little vent hole then the oil would drain back to the sump....so in any case you've either got air in the system (and a very messy oil change) or a loss of prime every time the engine is stopped.

Actually you can put a taller filter on the mod. His other pic below.
But, the PZ-1 is a 21 nominal Micron Filter. That is not an improvement as far as filtration goes.

There is a lot of lower micron Hydraulic Filters that could be used since it is the Filter Housing itself that has the Bypass Valve there is no need to have one inside of the Filter.

So if he made his mod for a lower micron of Filter there would at least be some benefit to it.
But, he also needs to bring the price down.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

When I said "what`s so hard about the stock filter to change"?

I was thinking, remove 2 little nuts, lift off lid, remove filter, drop in new filter, replace lid and "O" ring, Cinch down 2 little bolts.

true, the stud in the filter housing can strip off and not hold the lid down on one side. also some one not paying attention could some how not get the "O" ring to seat properly.

I have read a few times here that someone had one of the studs strip out. I don`t believe it was a one time thing. It was probably over a period of years, of strong arm mechanics cranking down on the nuts beyond the torque the nuts were designed to take.;

Spin on filters can be a problem also, if the person doing the replacement doesn`t bother to check to see if the old rubber gasket stayed with the filter. sometimes it will come off the filter and stick to the base. a double gasket is a disaster if not cought in time.

I know all about upside down spin on filters. My Nissan Diesel SD-22 engine has one. everytime I change the oil, it runs down on the R/F suspention and under the cross arm of the engine. great design.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Ha ha - that's just rust proofing design!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

On the subject of oil filtration.....I am considering adding a centrifuge to the bypass in an effort to remove the finer crap the factory filter doesnt.

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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

The stud on the filter housing will never break if torqued properly.....if unsure, get a micro-tork wrench.

I've changed the oil probably 100+ times on these and have yet to damage a stud....

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

If the new filter is significantly smaller, as it is appears, isn't there less filtering media, and it won't do as good of a job?

I saw a gas like M103 in the junkyard with a setup like this on it. Looked very homeade.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Sounds like a lot of extra work for what effectively a mag-plug would achieve. mag-plug = magnetic plug.

See:-

http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/

http://www.vescor.com/hydraulic_acc43.htm

(And Google the rest!)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I guess it may not do a good job for as long - what have you got in an OM617? 6.5 litres of oil. And what have you got in most modern European car engines? 4 litres say - I don't know. You'd do well to pick a spin on filter that would filter for as long as your normal service intervals that's for sure.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If Prior Owners took their car to one of those Oil Change Places they could have been previously over tightened.
There used to be a saying that "an over torqued Bolt is 1/2 broken".

If the Prior Owner did his own Oil changes; I have read here on this forum where the Cap O-ring was not in place correctly and people tried to stop the leak by tightening the Nuts more.

I cannot remember the details bue someone on this Forum used a Torque Wrench and still it stripped something.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Despite the size of the stock Filter the Full Flow section at the bottom of the Filter is not very big.
Except for Baldwin the other Filter companies do not seem to know what how well the larger bypass section of the stock Filter works.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The Babbitt part of the Rod and Main Bearings and whatever Alloy the Piston Rod Bearings are made are not magnetic.
Soot is also not magnetic.
So a magnet is not going to work on the above.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It is supposed to work better than even the Amsoil Bypass filter and would not need the about $28 Filter Elements.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel