I am working on my 87 300TDT and replacing the Accumulators. Well, that is what I called it yesterday. 2am I had a different impression. Clearly another mechanic or 'benz killer' has been in here before as there are mounting studs broken off. I am not able to loosen the banjos and am considering cutting the lines and having new ones made.

Has anyone had lines made for the W124 SLS?

I am thinking the small lines might be replaced with brake line, but the larger lines/banjo bolts are a different story.


This was my post in another thread earlier today:

Anyone have hoses/lines made for the W124 SLS? I am having trouble removing the lines from my accumulators. Perhaps a new one can be fabbed from the old?

One of the small lines already had a rounded head, and I cant get either allen socket, banjo bolt to loosen to save my life. I was able to loosen the connection between the hard line and the line that directly feeds the strut. (Essentially, the joint behind the rear wheels that gets covered in crap that you would expect to never come apart again......loosened easily.)


In an effort to move this along today, (I have new accumulators to install), I may have to use copious amounts of heat, and/or cut things.

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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

try heat but be careful - both because of the fluid but also pressure. bleed off pressure and liquid before using heat.

if heat doesn't free up the banjos i would destroy the accumulator and/or the banjo bolt before the hard line. the banjo will not be expensive, the line might be. since you're replacing the accumulator you can cut it off just above the hard line and get everything apart. same with the little lines on the accumulators, they're worth peanuts and relative easy to make. they are indeed exactly like a brake line in all respects.

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punkinfair

Another possible application for the IRWIN internal-helix bolt remover socket.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

thanks Scott,

How should I relieve pressure? Open the bleeder on the SLS valve?


Sounds great. Linky for the folks watching at home?

__________________
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

I believe the fitting you already loosened should bleed off the pressure. On my 123 system, the bleed screw on the valve was much tighter than the banjo bolts at the accumulators. I bled mine at the banjo bolt. Loosening it just a hair bled off the pressure.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I have the small lines loosened and the fluid coming out is loaded with bubbles. This is either due to the nitrogen gas leaked into the fluid, or that its rushing out the threads under pressure.

Still no luck with the banjos.

Torch time. "It's gettin hot in here"

A little heat may help loosen the banjo bolts. Once they are loose/removed, I still have not gotten eyes on the accumulators top side. Is the section of carpet between the third row seat and the second row glued down? I removed all the screws I could find and it wont budge.

__________________
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

Use Kroil the night before and nearly anything will be loose the next morning.

The carpet is glued to the thin sheet-metal, the sheet metal must come out with the carpet. It will be stuck down to the soundproofing after all of these years, start at the front edge where the floor drops to the middle seatbacks, and just pull the edge of the metal panel up.

Take an allen wrench, put it in the banjo, give it a good hard hit with a lead or brass mallet, might free up some of the bond holding the threads. If the allen wrenche strips, go to autozone/advance auto/napa and get the set of IRWIN bolt-extractor sockets (in a blue plastic case with a big yellow IRWIN on the top), hammer the suitable size on the bolt head and turn. Sears also sells these branded as Craftsman I've read.

Worst case? I'd consider grinding the head off of the banjo bolt and ordering new, it's threaded into the accumulator you're throwing away anyhow.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Thanks Jeff. Great advice.


A long night working under the W124, but with a little persistance and some heat, I was able to break the lines from the accumulators. See the pics attached. I bled pressure, show both disconnected, the diff is removed to replace bushings, I cut an 8mm allen and welded it into the allen bolt holding the front of the diff to the chassis. It worked like a charm.

I still havnt gotten the old accumulators out.

Moce pics to follow.

Attached Thumbnails

         

__________________
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

Good work. The banjo bolts on a 123 are hex head not allen head if my memory serves me correctly.
I think I have lift envy.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13