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#16
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Quote:
If I were you I'd try and get hold of the FSM for your car. And if you're willing to do so a short write up would be welcome.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#17
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Done.
Replaced the seals but it is a lot of work if you do not have a lift. You need a 10mm spline bit to loosen the bolt holding the back of the diff. It is no different from the W123 except the diff is slid in from the front and held in place by the spline bolt at the back, the spline bolt is on the left hand side.
This is what I did. 1) drain the diff fluid 2) I started with the right hand axle. Remove the spline bolts ( 6 ) holding the an annular axle. It is a pain as you need to turn the axle 2 -3 times to get to the bolts. 3) Remove the spline bolt holding the diff. Remove the back plate by removing the 8 bolts ( 15mm ). Make sure the diff is supported by a jack or something. 4) Remove the clip holding the axle inside the diff. It is not easy. Remove the axle stub. 5) Pry out the old seal cover. This took me a long time. Hammer in the new one. I put a roll of electrical insulation tape on top to hammer it in. It fits right in and is very effective, no damage to the cover seal. 6) The left hand axle is even more pain as the exhaust is in the way. 7) Re-install everything in the reverse order and re-fill with diff fluid. It took me all in all about 7-8 hours over 3 evenings. It was not fun as I was on my back almost all the time.
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300SDL project car |
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