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-   -   Oh, No, Not Another Car... (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/292763-oh-no-not-another-car.html)

Randy 01-24-2011 09:45 AM

Oh, No, Not Another Car...
 
Yes, I made it home in the 2005 E 320 CDI. Photo soon.
I need basic advice: (1) is there anything special to know about changing the oil? about changing the coolant and thermostat? About changing the fuel filter?
These are the basic tasks I think I can handle and I will probably need to do first.
I can find the correct oil, according to the manual. is Shell Rotella T6 15w40 on the Mercedes-Benz approved list. According to the manual, the viscosity is OK for my climate, but would a lower "w" be better, or no matter?
I will use OEM filters.
Thanks, Randy

vstech 01-24-2011 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy (Post 2644266)
Yes, I made it home in the 2005 E 320 CDI. Photo soon.
I need basic advice: (1) is there anything special to know about changing the oil? about changing the coolant and thermostat? About changing the fuel filter?
These are the basic tasks I think I can handle and I will probably need to do first.
I can find the correct oil, according to the manual. is Shell Rotella T6 15w40 on the Mercedes-Benz approved list. According to the manual, the viscosity is OK for my climate, but would a lower "w" be better, or no matter?
I will use OEM filters.
Thanks, Randy

this oil does not exist...
the T6 synthetic is rated 5W40. the blue bottle.
if it were me, I'd do a little research on oil before using the T6 in an 05 model! amsoil,Mobil1, and Lubrimolly are all better choices.
I'm not familiar with that motor yet, but the fuel filter should be up top, and the oil change on newer models is sometimes tricky due to toploader requirements, and lack of dipsticks etc.
check all this out and report back here with pictures!

Randy 01-24-2011 11:59 PM

You're correct about the viscosity. At least the T6 is MB 285.36. I'll get pics when I can get homw before dark and it quits raining.

SD Blue 01-25-2011 10:37 AM

Just a thought, instead of introducing the possibility of excess minerals from the water, resulting in possible problems long term, isn't it recommended to use a lubricant additive and test the coolant charge?

I know full change out is the old school way of doing things but I've seen several reports where charge and lubrication is a better route to take.


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