help! Another stuck ignition key thread

[JB3]

Originally Posted by ak_pdx

What are the costs of new locks, anyone knows?

-AK

I paid 40 for a non matching ignition that came with two keys. This may or may not bother you, but since my chevy van has the same arrangement, hasn't bother me yet!

The dealer quoted for me over 100 dollars and a long wait.

[ak_pdx]

Thx, dropnosky!

I've learned a few things since.
In my case the likely cause was a worn part on the steering lock (not the cylinder), and a slightly modified key would've probably solved the stuck key problem.

I've replaced the lock (the T-shaped mechanism), list $194, paid a little bit less, and ordered a car-matching cylinder from the dealer ($102 or $109, one key only, addtl $24, no discount if ordered together; Friday, pickup Tuesday).

With my fingers crossed, I installed the old cylinder back, as I was tired of using a screwdriver to start the car.

I took some pix, but I plan to take more and possibly start another thread documenting what I think may be way to unlock the steering or maybe offer it as a service :-)


R's,
Aleš

[funola]

Originally Posted by dropnosky

.........
On drilling the pin, I can see no way to do this without damaging the dash, even with the steering wheel dropped a bit. Its still behind the dash at an angle that will just not work for drilling, so I figure I have to pull out the dash to preserve it from getting damage. How did others do this, did they pull the dash?

I know this is an old thread and you have everything sorted out already. For future reference, would using a Dremel with a stone or diamond grinder bit work instead of drilling? Grinding is a lot more manueverable than drilling where you need a straight shot. I have the assembly in my hand and that pin is a little over 1/8" in diameter and sticking out a little over 1/16" so not much to grind down.

[JB3]

Originally Posted by funola

I know this is an old thread and you have everything sorted out already. For future reference, would using a Dremel with a stone or diamond grinder bit work instead of drilling? Grinding is a lot more manueverable than drilling where you need a straight shot. I have the assembly in my hand and that pin is a little over 1/8" in diameter and sticking out a little over 1/16" so not much to grind down.

I think so actually, it would work, but it might cut up the bracket off the steering column a bit more than drilling it straight since it would be like a 90 degree angle cut. good idea though, next guy who has this problem should try it that way

[funola]

Originally Posted by dropnosky

another update-

So FYI, although this is probably mentioned elsewhere, I figured id mention it again just in case anyone is having a similar problem.

There is a part division somewhere in the ignition switch on some of these cars, and based on this there is a design difference that really affects what you might need to do to extricate yourself from this nightmare.

On my 84, the ignition switch part number that was on there is 1264620039. This part number has a nice little hellish feature. It has a T-shaped plastic boss that locks into the removable plug behind the ignition. This makes actually removing the electrical plug dependent on key position, and if your tumbler is jammed, you can't unplug the electrical connector! Sometimes the tumbler will turn after you get the whole lock loose and manually depress the lock, as I have read on other threads, but I was not so lucky.

The replacement ignition switch part number is 2025420104, which does NOT have this boss, and the electrical connector can be removed regardless of key position.

heres the bad news, the part numbers are cast on the part if the ignition switch that is concealed by the locking mechanism when its bolted together, so there is effectively no way to identify the different switches without trying to unplug the connector, and of course, some are just sticky with age too. So basically, if its an outrageous PITA to unplug the plug, the only solution is to either us so much force as to break the plug, or to drill out the tumbler and turn it that way.

Strategy wise, im kind of glad I broke the plug and damaged the ignition switch, because now I won't have to deal with this plastic T-lock again, but its hard to find another plastic plug housing, and I had to buy another ignition switch.

heres a comparison pic- The top one is the original one, notice the T-lock in the center of the switch. The plastic piece next to is is the lower part of the plug that broke off ultimately. The lower one is the replacement ignition switch with no lock. I hope to have the thing back together today.

I have the plastic boss or "key" in the elec switch from my 83 240D also. I took it apart to look inside and clean it and not sure if I messed it up. Do you know if the key return springyness from the start position is provided by the elec switch or the steering lock assembly?

[JB3]

Originally Posted by funola

I have the plastic boss or "key" in the elec switch from my 83 240D also. I took it apart to look inside and clean it and not sure if I messed it up. Do you know if the key return springyness from the start position is provided by the elec switch or the steering lock assembly?

I think its all from the steering lock and tumbler mechanism personally. The new lock I had felt normal turning the key in it external of the car and without the electrical ignition switch attached.