Hey guy's,

Had a bad beginning of 2011....had to replace my flex disks (thanks VSTECH for the help) and now I need to fix the second half of my issue.

A the beginning of January my 93 300D 2.5 T developed a "lack of power" behavior followed by a metal clunking during gear shifting (1st second, second third), with help from VSTECH I narrowed the metal clunk to the flex disk and balancer. Now those are taken care of, but my hard shift an lack of power are still with me.

So being familiar how my 84 300D vacuum is important I started looking for broken or warned out vacuum hoses and connectors. Found and replaced a couple cracked ones but nothing major. Checked the modulator valve connection and hose and all seems well there.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Adriano

Any ideas as to where look next?

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Adriano

83 300SD 500,300 miles (Well seasoned work horse AKA "Put Put")
93 300D 245,000 miles (Moms Baby AKA "Sweat Pea")
87 300D 185,000 miles (Life giver, aka parts car for my 300SD)

Did some more diagnostics over the week-end and discovered that I have no or little vacuum going toward the modulator shifter valve section. If I measure the vacuum at the vacuum pump I get 20 inch of vacuum (almost instantly) but when I connect the 4 way onto it and then begin to connect the hardlines going toward the injection rack, where other control valves including the shut off and modulator controller are connected vacuum drops to less then 5 inch. I may inadvertently damaged the shut off valve or valve seal, for when I press hard down on the valve the vacuum rises slowly toward 10inch.

Two questions: Where can I get a detailed vacuum diagram with readable names of the control valves (the one I found on a post when enlarged is too pixelated to read). And can the shutoff valve be repaired or should I prepare to buy a new one.


Many thanks in advance.

Adriano

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Adriano

83 300SD 500,300 miles (Well seasoned work horse AKA "Put Put")
93 300D 245,000 miles (Moms Baby AKA "Sweat Pea")
87 300D 185,000 miles (Life giver, aka parts car for my 300SD)

Check out the waste gate conversion. Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962? It eliminates all the vac stuff on the right side (passenger) by the battery and air filter. The shutoff valve is cheap enough to replace. Don't think you can repair (sealed). Do you have a mighty vac?

Shut off valve replacement: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM602ShutOffValve

Also are you sure the turbo is producing boost?

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

Hello all here is a closeup picture of the part that has failed me......does anyone know what it is called?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=2465[/IMG]

Many thanks

Adriano

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Adriano

83 300SD 500,300 miles (Well seasoned work horse AKA "Put Put")
93 300D 245,000 miles (Moms Baby AKA "Sweat Pea")
87 300D 185,000 miles (Life giver, aka parts car for my 300SD)

Even at this level of expansion...
I think (?)he's showing whatever's outboard of the Vacuum Control Valve?
[Heck, It may be the VCV]

"Out on a Limb"
You've got enough of a Vacuum Leak for the EDS (Engine Control Computer) to
Deny you Boost.
AND the Vacuum leak's "Bonus" is screwing with your shifting.

AND I heartily agree with BBDC , the Wastegate-Ectomy is the "Trick" for you!

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

hey guy's

Sorry for the bad quality picture, in attempting to meet forum picture size rules I downgraded the details way too much. At any rate the control valve being pointed to by the red arrow was said to be bad and there was a link provided by WHUNTER for a "make shift" rebuild of the very expensive controller. After removal and dis assembly of the valve I found it in perfect shape (but got yet more education on these Diesel babies).

Turns out that my hard shift issue which was caused by low vacuum, was NOT the result of leaky/lossy parts, but that the check valve (the first one located just about 5" from the pump) was mostly clogged.

For those of you like me learning to work on these beauties due to lack of $$ or just because you like it. The symptoms were: Hard shift I MEAN HARD, hard enough you could literally hear the differential gears slamming hard, as well a metallic CLUNKS under the floorboard of the rear passenger compartment. The vacuum suction was near perfect at 20+ inches at the input of said check valve and 20 right after.

Here are some clues I should've paid more attention to much earlier in my quest. 1) When measuring after the 4 way splitter I would get a RISE in vacuum after a few seconds of the gauge connection.

For those of you experiencing similar issues, REMOVE and bypass this check valve and re-measure your vacuum, it will make your life much, much simpler.

Lots of time spent over a $6 item using somewhat inexperienced logic to diagnose.

Thanks to all that helped.

NOW on to my next issue NO TURBO (cannot hear it spool up) and no POWER.

Adriano

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Adriano

83 300SD 500,300 miles (Well seasoned work horse AKA "Put Put")
93 300D 245,000 miles (Moms Baby AKA "Sweat Pea")
87 300D 185,000 miles (Life giver, aka parts car for my 300SD)

No turbo = computer not allowing it. you can pull the codes from the computer using an inexpensive analog volt meter. You count the needle swings. the positive and negative probe and a 3rd piece of wire.

read this:92 300D OM 602 Low Power Fix in Progress
and this:1992 300D 2.5 EDS error 5 drama

Hope it works out for you.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59