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  #16  
Old 02-02-2011, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
X2
For the sake of draining 1/2 a pint of oil, it has no merit.
Sorry, it is always more than a quart even after sump has slowed to a drip rather than a pint. Mercedes did put drains on other oil coolers, just not the 617 - a pretty low tech solution and common out there in the automotive world.

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  #17  
Old 02-02-2011, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by warmblood58 View Post
Sorry, it is always more than a quart even after sump has slowed to a drip rather than a pint. Mercedes did put drains on other oil coolers, just not the 617 - a pretty low tech solution and common out there in the automotive world.
I find that if I have the motor nice & warm when I do a change, most of the oil in the cooler drains back as the thermostat on the cooler is open.
It works for me. I have tried blowing the cooler & lines out after draining & only ever get 1/2 a pint out.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
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  #18  
Old 02-03-2011, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
I find that if I have the motor nice & warm when I do a change, most of the oil in the cooler drains back as the thermostat on the cooler is open.
It works for me. I have tried blowing the cooler & lines out after draining & only ever get 1/2 a pint out.

how does oil flow uphill? lower line elevates to oil filter housing?
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  #19  
Old 02-03-2011, 10:52 PM
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I wouldn't waste my time draining oil out of my oil cooler...but then I do have an added bypass filter on my 84 300D.

I think the oil pressure at the cooler hoses is going to be the same, or very close to the same as the car's pressure gauge reads. I used high pressure braided and AN fittings to replace my cooler hoses.

When I changed the plastic oil pressure gauge line to a braided hose from Summit racing, I pressure tested my custom adapter. My oil pressure gauge read 3 bar at about 30p.s.i. I wish there was an easy way to get an aftermarket gauge in the dash, as I would much rather have the p.s.i. reading and a wider range.
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  #20  
Old 02-04-2011, 01:31 AM
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This may be a repeat of info but in the Manual it has that the Oil Pressure Relief Valve inside of the Oil Pump opens at 110psi.

When I tested the Oil Pressure on my Car the max Oil pressure I could get was 97 psi.
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  #21  
Old 02-04-2011, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by warmblood58 View Post
how does oil flow uphill? lower line elevates to oil filter housing?
& the other line goes down hill to filter. Most appears to drain out. As I said, I have found all but 1/2 pint drains out.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #22  
Old 02-04-2011, 06:10 AM
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I cannot imagine very much oil in the cooler. I completely believe layback4o on this.
1. The cooler does not hold that much. not much of a tank on each end and those cooling tubes are pretty small. It is mostly air.
2. from my 115 days I used to drain mine and there just was not much there.

It is not a bad thing conceptually but in reality, again, I would not risk failure of my fabrication.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Last edited by t walgamuth; 02-04-2011 at 08:40 PM.
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  #23  
Old 02-04-2011, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I cannot imagine very much oil in the cooler. I completely believe outback4o on this.
1. The cooler does not hold that much. not much of a tank on each end and those cooling tubes are pretty small. It is mostly air.
2. from my 115 days I used to drain mine and there just was not much there.

It is not a bad thing conceptually but in reality, again, I would not risk failure of my fabrication.
Thanks tiddlywinks walgamuth !!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #24  
Old 02-04-2011, 08:42 PM
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It has been called to my attention that I was careless and called layback40 outback40.

I did not do it intentionally, and if it is a particularly nasty word down under, I apoligize again.

As you can see by the rest of the post I was 100% agreeing with him.

I am not sly enough to do something like this on purpose.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #25  
Old 02-04-2011, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad123D View Post
I wouldn't waste my time draining oil out of my oil cooler...but then I do have an added bypass filter on my 84 300D.

I think the oil pressure at the cooler hoses is going to be the same, or very close to the same as the car's pressure gauge reads. I used high pressure braided and AN fittings to replace my cooler hoses.

When I changed the plastic oil pressure gauge line to a braided hose from Summit racing, I pressure tested my custom adapter. My oil pressure gauge read 3 bar at about 30p.s.i. I wish there was an easy way to get an aftermarket gauge in the dash, as I would much rather have the p.s.i. reading and a wider range.
sweet! What type of bypass are you using, do you have any pics?
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  #26  
Old 02-04-2011, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I cannot imagine very much oil in the cooler. I completely believe layback4o on this.
1. The cooler does not hold that much. not much of a tank on each end and those cooling tubes are pretty small. It is mostly air.
2. from my 115 days I used to drain mine and there just was not much there.

It is not a bad thing conceptually but in reality, again, I would not risk failure of my fabrication.


Again, I pull the lower hose mount to oil cooler well after I have pulled sump plug and I always get well over 1 quart of dirty oil. I maintain an oil level between upper and lower marks on dipstick - try it yourself, you will see more oil than you think drain over two hours!
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  #27  
Old 02-05-2011, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warmblood58 View Post
Again, I pull the lower hose mount to oil cooler well after I have pulled sump plug and I always get well over 1 quart of dirty oil. I maintain an oil level between upper and lower marks on dipstick - try it yourself, you will see more oil than you think drain over two hours!
This has me very curious.
Are you removing the filter element & allowing the filter housing to drain prior to draining the cooler?
I am at a total loss to work out where all the oil is coming from!!
Normally I allow my cars to drain over night. Its an over kill I know, just makes life easy. Put the sump plug & new filter element in & fill with oil in the morning.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #28  
Old 02-05-2011, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warmblood58 View Post
Again, I pull the lower hose mount to oil cooler well after I have pulled sump plug and I always get well over 1 quart of dirty oil. I maintain an oil level between upper and lower marks on dipstick - try it yourself, you will see more oil than you think drain over two hours!
There is no way that I would unhook my oil cooler hose to settle this discussion. Just unhooking those big lines from that fragile cooler gives me the willies when I actually have to.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #29  
Old 02-05-2011, 09:18 AM
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The pressure in the cooler is whatever pressure the oil-system as indicated on the gauge is at....

No point in draining cooler on oil-change, the Injection-pump also contains around half a litre of oil, which doesnt drain when oil-changing....

So the extra effort of draining the cooler isnt much value...

If you have issues of oil left in the system, Do an oil system flush with a cheap oil when you do your change....
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  #30  
Old 02-05-2011, 09:39 AM
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as for oil pressure isnt it something like 3 psi per 100 rpm rule of thumb on diesels?

as for draining the cooler, imo, theres no plug. odds are the car is 25+ years old, it hasnt been done in 25 years, why start now?

if u add a drain its just more stuff to leak, i dont like having extra parts that could potentially break.

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