Suspension diagnosis for w123 - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #61 03-12-2011, 11:54 AM

So I fixed the washer orientation when doing the tie rods. No need for a DIY, but I did take pics...

MBZ123 · #62 03-14-2011, 05:31 AM

DOOD! Your LCA inner bushings are shot! That noise you're referring to emanating from behind the glove is coming from the PS LCA. No two ways about it. Though not as badly degraded, the DS inner isn't far behind. True, the rubber itself doesn't appear aged as is typically the case, but that isn't conclusive to determining if bad. You mentioned replacing one of those bushings already. Shot in the dark, but prolly was the DS, right? What was it replaced with? A jy part? DS bushing in pic doesn't even remotely appear new.

The washer being flipped prolly won't amount to much. True it's not to spec., but, still not gonna produce any noticeable change.

Thank you immensely for the writeup/pictorial on this DIY. Just about to attack this whole shebang myself on my new '82 coupe. This is already providing me returns.

(In my best Peter Falk voice) Just one more thing, dropping the ball joint from the steering knuckle is as easy as wacking it between (simultaneously) two 3lb hammers.

FNHB

JHZR2 · #63 03-14-2011, 08:00 AM

I know lots of folks have claimed the two hammer approach to be a good way to separate... But I figured they make other tools for a reason, right? Maybe that is the far superior approach... but then again the MB FSM showed tools similar to what I used for separation.

My P/S LCA bush was badly crcked/crooked. It was replaced with a new part. Right now the issue is that the alignment is wrong, which I believe pulls the bushings the wrong way. Im going to have the dealer do an alignment and get their take.

The knocking behind the glovebox was very intermittent and was slop in the idler arm assembly. Verified that with the wheels off the ground.

JHZR2 · #64 03-17-2011, 12:41 PM

FYI new alignment at dealer:

Clunk seems to remain. Guess clunk sound associated with idler play wasn't the cause... Guide rod mount is solid and tight... But I guess is shot inside?

winmutt · #65 03-17-2011, 01:47 PM

Clunking from pass side around dash? Check swaybar bushing under the battery. The control rod mount can certainly clunk inside.

leathermang · #66 03-17-2011, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

I know lots of folks have claimed the two hammer approach to be a good way to separate... But I figured they make other tools for a reason, right? Maybe that is the far superior approach... but then again the MB FSM showed tools similar to what I used for separation.

My P/S LCA bush was badly crcked/crooked. It was replaced with a new part. Right now the issue is that the alignment is wrong, which I believe pulls the bushings the wrong way. Im going to have the dealer do an alignment and get their take.

The knocking behind the glovebox was very intermittent and was slop in the idler arm assembly. Verified that with the wheels off the ground.

I have used the two hammer ( sledge one side as anvil ) approach in the past ..but only because I did not have the proper tools... sometimes it works just fine... and sometimes you miss and mess up other things... LOL If you could find, borrow, steal the right tool you are way ahead .. particularly with MB stuff since it tends to be made better and stronger.....

winmutt · #67 03-17-2011, 02:45 PM

I can think of no reason not to use the two hammer approach on cast iron.

JHZR2 · #68 03-17-2011, 02:56 PM

The extractor tools sure made it easy though...

Stretch · #69 03-17-2011, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

FYI new alignment at dealer:

Clunk seems to remain. Guess clunk sound associated with idler play wasn't the cause... Guide rod mount is solid and tight... But I guess is shot inside?

I like the before measurements - they show what a good job you did putting it back together again - the numbers are almost in limits!

I don't understand the after measurements though - how did the back wheel measurements change?

The castor is also (ever so) slightly out of limits - according to the data I've found. See W123 Caster / castor settings for a sedan / saloon?

winmutt · #70 03-17-2011, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

The extractor tools sure made it easy though...

6 1/2 dozen..... You should give the hammers a try sometime, its quicker and easier. Hell I have used a tire iron as a hammer once at the junkyard. Took quite a few hits but did the job.

JHZR2 · #71 03-17-2011, 05:10 PM

Id hope the dealer is using factory specs for alignment....

Yak · #72 03-17-2011, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Id hope the dealer is using factory specs for alignment....

How do you have two left front tires?

Yak · #73 03-17-2011, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

FYI new alignment at dealer:

Clunk seems to remain. Guess clunk sound associated with idler play wasn't the cause... Guide rod mount is solid and tight... But I guess is shot inside?

Do you have a passenger or other driver? Do some diagnostics: near the glovebox, or towards the floor? On braking and accelerating, or turning? That mak give some better clues to isolate.

You could also check the torque on the rod/LCA bolt. 105 NM.

JHZR2 · #74 03-17-2011, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yak

How do you have two left front tires?

Lol... Well so long as the values are right...

Carlos Granados · #75 11-11-2016, 02:00 PM

Hello ,, I finish up my W 123 with a 560 engine and a 5 speed manual box , took it for a Touring rally in Mexico and I need suspencion bad , call H & R and Eibach and they don't offer any , I need to stiffer up the suspension , the springs of a 116 and 126 are the same ? up to what year 126 ?
Thanks

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