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Anyone in Detroit MI willing to look at this?
I saw this and really liked it, but the owner has not responded to my emails, and I didnt want to call until I had the ability to do something about it. Its over 200mi for me so I cant just run and look at it, and my main concern is a #14 head. If anyones willing to take a look at it for me I would greatly appreciate it. Also if anyone has any thoughts on the car feel free to share, im trying to find something that doesnt need any work at the time of purchase...
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/ctd/2182331989.html |
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Not for $2750. Seller made no mention of how any vehicle functions work. HVAC? Suspension? Any work over the years? Cooling system? Hiding rust? I would not feel comfortable buying a car for nearly $3k without inspecting in person and I think you will be hard pressed to find someone to look at it for you as you the same way you are objective when purchasing. They may say it is a great vehicle then you could have it turn into a lemon. The car could drive fine for 50,000 more miles or lose a head gasket within 500. Just what you have to deal with on the 603 with no history. At nearly 300k the bottom end is probably still fine unless very abused, but I am sure the head will need a valve job here if not already done (if just a HG was done quickly in its past... with the miles it has, this is probably true). Then you have to think what else you will need when in there: valve job on early head or seek an updated cast for a rebuild updated timing cover timing chain + tensioner vac pump rebuilt injectors new expansion tank gaskets/bolts Trans is about dead at 300k too, just FYI. It does appear to be a good starting point for an SDL even if it needs a front end and/or a top end rebuild as the interior is clean and the paint is presentable. Just go look at it in person and if something feels/seems off, just walk away. |
I think you're being a bit harsh hit, although I understand your point. The tc cover often outlives the car, head could be good or even new, but it can also need all suspension rubber and have typical rust and dents for a Detroit car of its age. I guess that's why an inspection is a good idea but I agree that it'll be trough to get an accurate picture from a third party.
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I was not trying to come across callus.
I just feel time/money would be better spent on a $5k car with receipts and known issues than 'Pandora's Box' |
Being a Michigan car the #1 thing is rust rust rust. That one looks like its seen a lot of sun.
If it's actually rust free that's not a terrible price in this area. I paid more for mine and discovered lots of rust after the fact. With that many miles the trans' days are probably numbered. -Jason |
Well it is obvious from the pictures that the car is a beauty and looks in every way to have been a very pampered quality car. If I were interested in the car at 200 miles distance, I would go money in hand to buy it, having family or friend along to drive one car or if not bought, have a good ride home. It really looks "well worth the money". Up close and in person, only the buyer can truly check it out. It is hard to imagine a bucket of rust under that lovely exterior, but a bad head or weak tranny won't show on the picture.
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Im going to try and contact the owner again, and see if he responds with any history of maintnance..
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Detroit uses a LOT of salt. If you've driven there in the winter, cars are generally coated quite competely in a white crust which is salt, the salt air from cars ahead of you gets everywhere, even when the roads are dry the white salt dust from cars ahead is thick enough you can taste it.
If it somehow was not driven in the city, or on bad days, or washed thoroughly (hood up, flush rockers, etc.) after driving it might be fine. Check with someone who has had a rusty 126 from road salt to see where the trouble spots are and look it over thoroughly. I agree Hit. Since my car is named "Pandora", I have done this a few times and found that the nice ones take a couple thousand, the average rust-free ones take more than the car will be worth when you're finished. I'm probably getting close to $10k in mine and it still needs paint. |
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I know this seller. RUN!!!!! He once tried to sell me specialized MB grease for 32.00, after he had bought it at O'Reilly's and was putting it in the other can. His flunky didn't realize I was watching. What does that tell you? I will not reveal the name to avoid getting sued, he has a lot of connections, but none are to me. He does "repairs" too. |
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If anyone knows of a 300sdl that doesnt need any major repairs right away at <$4000 let me know |
That thing is practically in my back yard. I recognize the buildings but don’t remember seeing the car for sale.
The warning is a bad sign, but I could take a look if you change your mind. |
Michigan cars can be very shiny on top, but very crusty underneath. Do not let the pictures be the corrosion meter. You must go under the car with a screwdriver.
-J |
I looked at a Z28 Camaro, 2001? model year I think it was, maybe '00, that ended up down here in Texas in '08 from lower Michigan... the car ALREADY had rust bubbles in wheel arch areas and the entire under hood area was surface rust. :eek: I was beyond shocked and learned my lesson from the past... if you see any rust already, there is tons more that is hidden.
busman, if you want a keeper SDL... buy one outside of the rust belt. Most southern cars have no rust. My SDL was purchased in Houston new (then ended up in the DFW area) and has a very small spot that most W126s do on the rear window. The paint is comical... but I simply tell people it is my anti-theft system. :D The downside? The paint is usually wasted and interiors can be also if the car did not have window tint. Your budget of $4,000 should easily buy a quality car. I buy these for paint quality first, then interior, and lastly mechanical quality. Please just be patient and you will find one. |
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-J |
I learned it the hard way too, not to worry.
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