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  #1  
Old 02-05-2011, 11:15 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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W123 tie rod questions

Hi,

Looking to get my Indy to replace springs and everything that can be done easier with springs removed (LCA bushings and guide rod stuff mainly). I'm going to plan to do ucas and shocks and tie rod assemblies.

My question is - it seems that the tie rods are a part that you must " beat" out. Is that the case?

Since I'm not saving them, my plan would be to separate with pickle fork, pull the center and two ends, then bolt it all back. Is it as straightforward as that?

I've done them on my BMW before, no big deal. But this suspension/steering is more complex it seems.

What else would I want to do whe I had the tie rods off? Steering damper I'm sure, idler arm rebuild? Anything else?

Lots on the uca job - seems like a 40 min per side effort if everything is OK, but not as much it seems on replacing the three tie rod sections...

Thanks!

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #2  
Old 02-06-2011, 04:50 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Hi,

Looking to get my Indy to replace springs and everything that can be done easier with springs removed (LCA bushings and guide rod stuff mainly). I'm going to plan to do ucas and shocks and tie rod assemblies.

My question is - it seems that the tie rods are a part that you must " beat" out. Is that the case?

Since I'm not saving them, my plan would be to separate with pickle fork, pull the center and two ends, then bolt it all back. Is it as straightforward as that?

I've done them on my BMW before, no big deal. But this suspension/steering is more complex it seems.

What else would I want to do whe I had the tie rods off? Steering damper I'm sure, idler arm rebuild? Anything else?

Lots on the uca job - seems like a 40 min per side effort if everything is OK, but not as much it seems on replacing the three tie rod sections...

Thanks!
Yes, it is that simple.




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  #3  
Old 02-06-2011, 07:01 AM
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well, you can check the damper pretty easy, just push and pull on it. if it moves easily, it's shot. if there is resistance in both directions, it's ok.
with tie rod replacement, some count the threads on the old one, and match it with the new one. but it's not good enough. you really need to measure toe of the tires, when the rods are changed.
I mark the center of each tire, measure between them in the front, then the back, and make them the same measurement while keeping the steering wheel centered.
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  #4  
Old 02-06-2011, 07:45 AM
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You do your bits & then take it straight to the indi & have him do his & a full alignment.
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  #5  
Old 02-06-2011, 08:44 AM
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Well I need to do the ucas first since I'm scared about that... That front DS tire just tilts too far outward at full turn, and I don't like the rub on the guide rod.

Beyond that, I'll have the Indy do the rest and either align it or I'll take it to a dealer and get it done. That will be in combo with new tires...
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #6  
Old 02-06-2011, 11:37 AM
Yak Yak is offline
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I had no trouble with the pickle fork, although others recommend a tool similar to this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOSXVR9MQ7E

Less hammering, maybe a bit more finesse, or maybe an unnecessary $40+ expense. It may be worthwhile if you're going to incrementally repair the front end and don't want to risk tearing boots.
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2011, 12:53 PM
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For this iteration I'm just looking to rip out and replace with known good parts - essentially re-baseline my suspension. After that, finesse may be smarter...

What I'd love is some sort of a list of what needs to come apart to do what. Given how all the suspension parts are tied together, it would be helpful as a reference of what might as well get done if doing something else, and what parts would get done twice if you wait on replacing some suspension part while doing others, etc.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #8  
Old 02-06-2011, 01:28 PM
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Clear some PMs.
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  #9  
Old 02-06-2011, 02:11 PM
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Done!
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2011, 02:33 PM
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Answer

W123 Front steering suspension rebuild list
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/216147-w123-front-steering-suspension-rebuild-list.html#post1789159

Front End Suspension Rebuild
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123FrontSuspension

Upper Ball Joint Replacement
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123UpperBallJoint

Steering Coupling Replacement
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123SteeringCoupling





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__________________
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2011, 07:20 PM
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Here are my tie rod joints:









thoughts???
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2011, 09:39 PM
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well, it's impossible to tell from a static picture the condition of a tie rod, as it takes movement to reveal damage, but the boots on them look ok. you really need to look at them and have someone turn the wheel and verify both sides of the joint move together. not one moving and the other not until bottoming out. I'm talking about the tie rod end and what it attaches to. they should both move at the same time.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #13  
Old 02-06-2011, 10:03 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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Camber on the driver's side LCA looks adjusted max positive based on the orientation of the eccentric bolt. That may be contributing to your outer tire wear. I don't think that by itself would have much to do with the "sticking out" of the wheel, though.

From your other thread: Which LCA bushing was replaced? When was the last alignment?
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  #14  
Old 02-07-2011, 07:21 AM
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I dont recall which LCA bushing was replaced, but Ill look at my papers or under the car... Should know off the top of my head but I dont. It was done roughly in the summer, and the alignment was done late fall. Besides driving the CD cross country when we bought it, I dont think Ive put more than 3000 miles on it... So it just hasnt gotten a lot of use yet... Some of the suspension/tire issues being a reason why.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #15  
Old 02-07-2011, 10:14 AM
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How to remove any type of tapered joint without damaging the boot : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tX7GVWcB-bg

It helps to use two hammers at the same time but you can do it with one.

RE lca bearing, use the W126 one as a replacement.

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