|
|
|
#61
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
As you said, you wouldn`t have learned anything from the experience if you had just sent it in. Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#62
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Down time. My experience with my Mercedes has been that when I have a problem I have more down time than I would with another more common vehicle. Part if this is that to get a good deal on part you need to get them on the internet; next is you have to search for the repair info; after that you may need to get a special Tool or fabricate substitute for it. My Car has been up on Blocks for all most 1 month; the Job started off as a B2 Piston change and moved on the the U-joint issue. I also replace the Aux Coolant Fan Bearing during this time. I am sooo glad the Mercedes is not my only Vehicle.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#63
|
||||
|
||||
Do you rate the Volvo as a more reliable vehicle?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#64
|
||||
|
||||
On the Volvo I did rebuild the Sort Block when I first bought it at a cost of $1300. Made possible by Pistons made in Brazil. Since that was done I have had considerably less down time per miles driven with the Volvo that is 2 years older than the Mercedes.
The Volvo did sit for 1 year because the Fuel Injection Pump had a leaking Seal and I took the Fuel Injection Pump apart and kept putting off the job of putting it back together for that amount of time. Part of the problem was Myself; I could have changed only the Seal without taking the IP apart; buty, I insisted on taking it apart. Other than that I have done way less repair work on the Volvo. Except for the Engine Parts (not found at a junk yard either) the rest of the Car is 95% the same as any other Volvo 244. Cheap and easy to find parts. The reason for less repair jobs on it is that the Car structure is simpler. there is no CV Axles, no Oil Oil Cooler Hoses, it has a normal Wheel Bearing setup (I changed one), no Turbo, I have yet to bend any Window Regulators and so on. Also if the Vacuum Pump goes bad it does not ruin the Engine. More to the point of this thread the U-joints are replaceable. So it is a cheaper made car that in some areas will not hold up as well as a Mercedes (mainly the Engine, no Sleeves and all Aluminum Pistons just like on a Gasser). On the other hand you can get a good deal on parts at local part stores and it is more easily repaired. When I was looking for a Diesel Car if I had found a Volvo Diesl with a Automatic Transmission I would have bought it. But, they are scarce out here. About, 4 years ago when I looked on eBay what Diesel Volvos they had for sale were mostly in the East USA.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 02-27-2011 at 01:13 AM. |
#65
|
||||
|
||||
Ah ha I see down to condition and simplicity - good to know
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#66
|
||||
|
||||
Finished up installing the Drive Shaft and took it out for at test drive. I took it out for a test drive up to 75 mph (in a max speed limit 55 mph zone) and had no unusual vibration.
So as far as I am concerned I am done. Only time will tell if the repair will last.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#67
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Good luck, though I dont think you will need it. No more annoying vibrations !!
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#68
|
||||
|
||||
X2 - well done Diesel911
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#69
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#70
|
|||
|
|||
Make sure the u-joint is really locked in place. I had one come apart on the freeway. Drive shaft tore free and bounced off a tunnel wall while I was cruising aalong t about 50mph. Luckily no one was hurt.
|
#71
|
||||
|
||||
What did you do to stake the new U-joint you installed in place?
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#72
|
||||
|
||||
I added to below info to correct my Post #35.
New information 3/4/11: I was able to access info that my Computer would not open on another computer and the specs for the GMB U-joint 220-7284 are a bearing cap Diameter = 0.945" and the Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends = 2.929" (I assume this is the installed length). I installed my caps at about 2.986" Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends not the GMB spec of 2.929" Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends. This means my Caps need to be squeezed in more. However, it seems to be working OK. I will leave things as they are until I need to drop the Shaft again. My Flex Discs are somwhat stiff so some time next year I may change them and will push the caps in further when the Shaft is removed.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#73
|
|||
|
|||
Pipe Wrench for 46mm
I used a plumber's pipe wrench for the large nut
ten bucks at harbor freight not the right tool for the job, but hey... so glad to have found this thread... Last edited by VWFringe; 04-13-2011 at 05:50 PM. |
#74
|
||||
|
||||
Udate
I have been driving around for about 1 year with no issues so far.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#75
|
||||
|
||||
More info needed - how many miles?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|