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#76
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I never keep track of my mileage; I doubt if I put on 5,000 in one year.
I was not trying to prove anything in the thread; just trying to keep my Car on the Road. I can only say the Car is driven mostly around town for trips no longer than 10 miles one way. I have only twice had it on the Freeway were I spent an hour each time between 60-70 miles an hour. (I already went back and corrercted this.) After the U-joint was installed and the Driveshaft was already on the Car I found a source that gave info on the spacing if the Bearing Caps. Mine are a little wider apart then they are supposed to be; but, I did not change them. Also, the Shaft was not balanced after the work on it. So considering those 2 items I think if they were going to cause a problem that at the very least I would have had some vibration issues even with low milage. Also, when I was assembling the U-Joint I did not like the original Greas that came inside of the Bearings and cleaned it out and replaced it with Wheel Bearing Grease.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#77
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Quote:
I have a few questions. 1) Do you think machining in a Circlip groove would cause a balance problem? It seems such a small amount and that a good machinist could get this very close. 2) What MB did you do this on. I am chasing down a vibration problem on my 88 300TE and wonder if the same joints would work?
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<<Les Garten>> 1988 300TE 280,000 Miles |
#78
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My thought is that I already ground off some metal; removing more Metal for a Clip increases the chance the balance will be effected. In my case the original U-joint lasted for 28 Years. If I get 1/2 of that; 14 years I will be happy. Also sending it to a machine shop would take it out of the DIY catagory. I also think if you want Clips you might as well send it to one of those places (if they are still doing that) that machines the Yokes and replaces the U-joint with the re-greasable U-joint. What is needed is a DIY way to Balance the Drive Shaft. In one of the Threads I read that if you get the Car up to the speed where it Vibrates and Shift it into neutral and it still Vibrates it is something in the Drive Train. If the Vibration goes away when you shift into neutral the Vibration is coming from the Engine.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#79
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Quote:
Dropping it off with the U-joints and saying cut some grooves and I need some circlips seems the way to go here. There won't be any worrying about whether your joints are centered or whether it is peened well enough. I also can't see there being enough metal difference in the grooves to change the balance either I don't believe. All that being observed, awesome write up. Really enjoyed this thread. Do you have any idea a year later about where to source U-joints easier than the trials you went thru?
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<<Les Garten>> 1988 300TE 280,000 Miles |
#80
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I think the metal removed from the groove, would be equal on all 4 sides, and the metal from the clip would offset the weight removed anyway...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#81
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I you want grooves go for it.
I my case I did not find the spec on the Cup spacing (for the U-joint I used) until after it was installed. So mine are slighly wider than they should be. However, I did center the spacing of the Caps. I used the Depth end of my Vernier Calipers but if I had wanted to I could have drug out my Depth Micrometers. So the Cap centering is not a hard issue to deal with. Also I measured the Depth of the originals before I removed them.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#82
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In My case I eveutually found the spacing on the internet; don't remember where.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#83
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To be clear the spacing you list above (corrected) and the spacing you used were for the 9004100031 bearing?
It is also listed with a mercedes part number I cant recall. I think they are all the same sized joint.
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1983 240d 5Sp SOLD 1986 300D(LUCO) SOLD 1983 300TD(dreamboat)SOLD 1984 240d (Executive)SOLD 1984 240d (Euripides) SOLD 1982 300sd SOLD 1982 300sd (Ambas)SOLD |
#84
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I was able to access info that my Computer would not open on another computer and the specs for the GMB U-joint 220-7284 are a bearing cap Diameter = 0.945" and the Distance Between that Bearing Cap ends = 2.929" (I assume this is the installed length). This is from the Benzworld Thread: "Authausaz has the U-Joint. Their part number is 900 410 00 31 (it is a made in Japan GMB U-joint part number 220-7289). This is the one I bought and used at about $18." http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1581728-another-u-joint-driveshaft-thread.html#post4677977
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 10-05-2012 at 11:24 AM. |
#85
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I ordered mine from Dis count Per Formance Auto dot COM
it left yesterday a full week after i paid for it. it should be here in one business day. I cant believe these bums at DISCOUNT PERFORMANCE AUTO...... Worst customer support, Super slow shipping time. UnBELievABLE anyway...... get what you pay for I guess.
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1983 240d 5Sp SOLD 1986 300D(LUCO) SOLD 1983 300TD(dreamboat)SOLD 1984 240d (Executive)SOLD 1984 240d (Euripides) SOLD 1982 300sd SOLD 1982 300sd (Ambas)SOLD |
#86
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I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if there is an ISR U-joint from Spicer or others that will work. Inside Circlip Ring would solve the problem of centering and they do have a zerk fitting for grease. I know they are made for other European cars.
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#87
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I can't recall if the inner Face of the U-joint has a percision Flat area for the Snap Ring go against.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#88
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Thanks to Diesel911 for this pioneering work. I just replaced the U-joint with the GMB from the house in Arizona and after a week of driving everything is well.
It can be done and is not that difficult The only different thing I did was take the driveshaft to the local machine shop, and for $10 they pressed the old U-joint out. That had the advantage of de-staking the metal which made it easier to clean it up with a dremel. I asked if they would re-place and stake the new U-joint, but they would not, due to liability issues. I also ground and lapped some washers to match the gap of the caps and used a vice pressing on the washers to press them in. As Diesel911 said, the caps tend to move out slightly while staking with the prick punch, but taking your time and constantly measuring gives you good results.
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1981 300TD 310k miles 1970 280sel 172k miles 1966 230 Fintail 162k miles "Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?" |
#89
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As you said pressing it out is a good Idea because it means you remove less metal and keeps the balance closer. Let us know if you have any vibration issues.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#90
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The Spacing was for the U-joint that I used wich is somwhere in the Thread. There is no Mercedes Part Number for the U-joint on the W123s. What I did was took the Info from a previous thread where the guy gave an Lobro(spelling?) part number and I used that to search. From that you eventually find out that Lobro U-joint references to older Mercedes of different Chassis numbers as far back as the mid 1960s. You can get the Mercedes Part Number but of course it will be for that Chassis. Lobro U728/4 = GKN 18725 Also some Auto Part Dealers have a place to put whatever Part number you have into and you search that and if they have it you come up with either the same part or the one they carry that is supposed to be the same.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 11-24-2014 at 11:50 AM. |
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