Couldn't have done it without your writeup, Diesel911.

I had been chasing a rumble for over 6 months on my wagon. First time I replaced the carrier bearing and bushing. All the balancing weights were intact. Second time I replaced the centering bushings. Third time I replaced the flex discs (which looked good but were hard), spline boot, trans mount, carrier bearing and bushing (it was torn), diff mount, and axles (cheap Chinese boots were torn anyway). And yes, I marked the shaft halves and rolled the car before tightening the big spline nut. Still an awful rumble on acceleration, right in the torque zone. VERY FRUSTRATING.

Finally I totally rebuilt the driveline I pulled from my parts car and that's the one I re-staked the bearings on and installed. So far so good.

So I can't really say it was the U-joint on my original driveshaft that was the problem, although every other culprit was replaced and it still vibrated under acceleration. The U-joint didn't seem loose at all--just the familiar hitch. If my time was worth anything, it would have been best just to buy a rebuilt shaft.

Fortunately it's not.And driveline parts are relatively inexpensive.

While searching around, I found this video of a professional staking tool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTjna-bBgmk

Also, I found this place that sells replacement U-joints for staked driveshafts. They use C clips on the inside of the yoke, rather than re-staking. Don't know if it would work on a mercedes, but they don't have a U-joint for our cars, anyway.

Staked-In U-Joints

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1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

When I searched I could not find one that used the C Clips either or one that had a grease Zerk.
One of the other threads mentioned a U-joint for a Mustang but I think it also said the Shaft Rebuilder enlarged the Bores in the yokes to fit it.

It also seems that Shops equiped to reblance these Driveshafts are scarce.
Back when I did the Job a New Drive Shaft from an internet Mercedes Parts dealer was $250 or $270 and shipping would be added. People were paying slightly more to have the Shaft Rebuilt but the U-joint had the Gease Zerk.

I figured the U-joint cost about $18 as as you said My time was free so it was worth taking a chance.
Also I got to learn some new stuff that may be useful later.

Way more time was spent looing up info on the U-joint itself then actually working on the Drive Shaft.

There is also a lot of Gassers that have staked U-joints so the experience could be used on them if I had one.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My Car is down because I have, they Cylinder Head, Transmission off and a busted windshield but up until this year there has been zero issues from the U-joint replacement.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel