brake bleeding issue - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

blackestate · #16 02-16-2011, 12:34 PM

The one on the other rear is the correct one, that is what pointed me to this one being upside down.
I have never bled by loosening the hose, Just loosen it and bleed through the threads?

rosenfe · #17 02-16-2011, 01:37 PM

i had problem bleeding my 79sd after replacing calipers and mc.i had put calipers on wrong side and bleed screw was on bottom,air rises,bleed screw needs to be on top.

vstech · #18 02-16-2011, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackestate

The one on the other rear is the correct one, that is what pointed me to this one being upside down.
I have never bled by loosening the hose, Just loosen it and bleed through the threads?

it'll be SLOW, but you can raise the front of the car, then loosen the hard line connection to the flex line, and let it drip. eventually, *(like 30 minutes) the fluid will trickle down the flex line, and the air will make it out. when you get fluid out the hard line, you are pretty close.

blackestate · #19 02-16-2011, 11:49 PM

thanks for the help.
Took it off and bled it in the right orientation and installed it again, and it is working great!

leathermang · #20 02-17-2011, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJ300sdl

I read that the pumping to bleed takes the master cylinder past its normal range and can damage it if already worn. Do not know if it is true.

Yes and No....
Pumping and moving the fluid from the top to the bottom of the system under pressure is much better than using a mityvac because an air pocket in the system can allow fluid to pass through it....

So you can use a power bleeder to push that fluid through....

or you can bleed... if you bleed and follow my method it does not go all the way to the floor... thus can not do what you have read can happen... go past the place on the rod it usually stops at..
The trick is ...once the brake pedal is pumped a couple of times and the person is holding the pressure on the pedal.. ... the person at the wheel dealing with the bleeder nipple... only opens it momentarily... like openclose in one operation... not open then close...
just let it squirt out ( not into your face )... until clean fluid with no bubbles is what comes out... This was the STANDARD method of bleeding until the power bleeder was invented... ( which does waste some fluid compared to this method .).... remember that brake fluid seeks to take in water from the air... so using new cans is the safest thing...

And it is still important to find the longest line to bleed first... AS MEASURED bY the LINES... do not assume it is the right rear as used to be the case with most cars...