no.. I was just about to apologize. really!

I really appreciate Tango's advice (regardless of his tone), and was just watchin' his back. You know how we do, jimmy..?

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Yep. That is why I love this forum and absolutely hate the Acura forum!!

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

I have seen it brought up in threads and i KNOW people on here know about what i was talking about.. wish one of them would stroll by at any moment and slap me for not getting it right and point the op in the right direction

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1996 s10 zr2 with a 6.5 turbo diesel
1996 c2500 suburban with a 6.5 turbo diesel
1981 300sd with a turbo 617
Monte carlo figure 8 car

Might want to check your neutral safety switch. Highly unlikely something suddenly happened to it, but my backup lights weren't working, I had someone install a new one, he installed it wrong, preventing the car from shifting properly.

So it is possible, despite the fact that you haven't had another installed, that the little gears on the safety switch suddenly aren't working, or whatever.

Being able to operate normally any time the engine is off basically rules everything mechanical linkage wise out. Im really voting a pressure issue inside the trans. if it was me i would flush the trans and if that didnt work i would just learn to live with it... or find a new trans for when i got sick of it... I have been inside to many auto trans's to willingly go back in for much of anything. I always end up like this -->

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1996 s10 zr2 with a 6.5 turbo diesel
1996 c2500 suburban with a 6.5 turbo diesel
1981 300sd with a turbo 617
Monte carlo figure 8 car

Have you tried disconnecting the linkage and seeing - WITH THE ENGINE OFF! - whether you can get the linkage to stick or the input arm on the transmission to stick?

I see in a previous post you say it works with engine off and the whole system connected together - but if you disconnect the two you might feel something...


PS I'm not competing for the beer - I could never collect!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If it's not bleeding pressure off it might be worth trying an additive like TransX to see if it can dissolve whatever buildup is causing this issue. If it does work flush the tranny afterwords to remove whatever gunk was freed up.

Two local indies are saying that the tranny is shot. The most recent says the safety valve that prevents the car from accidentally going into Reverse is shot. He thinks that I could continue to drive it and the tranny should be "ok" until it gives...the other option is to go with a rebuilt. Neither option sounds particularly appealing to me; maybe I should drink that case of PBR and that might make me feel better...

I believe that was part of my recommendation...

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1996 s10 zr2 with a 6.5 turbo diesel
1996 c2500 suburban with a 6.5 turbo diesel
1981 300sd with a turbo 617
Monte carlo figure 8 car

With some due dilligence you may be able to undo the feature if not easily repairable. You need a good manual for the transmision first.

A important thing to remember is that as soon as you shut the engine off the pump stops and pressure inside the trans falls... then all is well... a rebuild might not adress it if the rebuilder is unsure of what they are doing or trying to accomplish, there is a little leak/stuck valve somewhere. With the failure you have endured i would be almost certain that it cant get much worse than it is so driving it should do no harm, i would still think about having a shop use a trans flush machine on it and see if whatever causing your headache might be flushed out/cleaned. Cant hurt and is normally not that expensive but deffinitly avoid the lube shop way of sucking it out the dipstick and sending fresh back in. OR just live with it...

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1996 s10 zr2 with a 6.5 turbo diesel
1996 c2500 suburban with a 6.5 turbo diesel
1981 300sd with a turbo 617
Monte carlo figure 8 car

Any local California Bay Area (south bay/peninsula/santa cruz) tranny shops that anyone can point me to for a flush at this point? I don't want to throw money at it but a flush does seem like a reasonable route prior to anything drastic.

Thanks and LMK!

So if it's a lock out to prevent you from shifting into reverse while moving or with the engine speed to high, could an idle speed adjustment be in order? Just grasping at straws.

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Just a dumb hick here, but hows that shifter bushing?

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I've replaced the linkage bushings but not the bushing in the shifter box. Do you think those might be the culprit?