The originals on my 1983 didnt have the springs, whereas the replacements did.

I'd love to have serviceable lines, as it would make ATF swapout for maintenance REALLY easy. Just pump the right amount through the fittings on either side, and you get a full fluid exchange without any change in optimal working fluid level.

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I found this older thread, so figured best to add on. Note that the OP didn't even start it.

I agree with Diesel911 that it is smart to be able to fix parts yourself. One can still buy these transmission cooler hoses fairly cheap at $11 ea, but after shipping it hit $39 total, which is 10% of what I paid for the car. I also didn't want to wait a week. Now I know how to replace these hoses in the future if the part is NA or becomes priced like gold, e.g. a $150 "engine stop valve".

The cooler lines in my 1984 300D did not have spring protectors like most new parts (my 1985 300D does). Mine probably are factory since the hoses look real old. The hoses rotated freely on the fittings (shrunken rubber), the outside had cracks, and were a slightly wet.

These are low-pressure hoses. I think the return side just dumps into the pan. I cut the crimp ferrules off. I hadn't read this post, but considered using my Dremel tool like Diesel99 did. Instead, I found it quick to clamp the ferrule sideways in the vise and make a spiral cut with a hacksaw. It is thin metal, so not much harder than opening a sardine can. See the peeled off ferrule in the photo. Then I spiral cut the old hose w/ a utility knife. It sure didn't take 2 hours like one fussy poster imagined. It cuts so easy (a few swipes) that I accidentally cut thru the old hose and into the barbed insert that you re-use, though thankfully not all the way thru.

I had a large roll of 11/32" ID transmission oil cooler hose for my Chrysler minivans (they have a continuous hose run). I hoped to use a ferrule from my AC parts (have a crimper), but had none small enough (#6 AC smallest). Instead, I used 3/8" D "fuel injection" type hose clamps. You could use regular screw clamps (my minivans do), but those can cut into the hose or cock and loosen.

If you have all parts in stock, this repair is quick. As you age, you will have common parts like these on hand, since running to parts stores is time-consuming and expensive. I buy in bulk on ebay to maintain my fleet.

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Someone replaced the rubber lines on my later 300SD with clamps and standard hose. It's not a big deal since many other applications do the same thing. I ordered OE hoses to replace what I have now, though. After my oil cooler line experience, I have decided not to half-a$$ anything or keep the PO's kludges intact.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Thats how my 95 E300D is rolling since a long time, I also put the spring type protectors back on them.

No leaks ever since, I wonder why people make a fuss about these lines - most cars have them just like this from the factory. You can crimp them too if you want. wont make a difference in performance of the item.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

I thought I would add some more info. Autozone sells some nice Parker Powersteering Hose. I don't know if the ID they sell is small enough for the Oil Cooler Hoses. But, I used the 1/2" ID Parker Hose on My Van Engine Oil Cooler.

If someone prefers crimped lines to the normal worm gear type Hose Clamp they can use Oetiker Clamps and a cheap Nail Nipper (has handles like a Pliers).

The PEX type Water Tubing/Hose sold in the Hardware Stores uses Oetiker Clamps. So that could be an available source of them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have about a dozen of the mercedes clamps that look like these, I dont have the tool though, They are sort of really tough clamps - but in this case screw clamps are working good.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

I used a Cheap Wood Nail Nipper/Cutter similar to the one in the Pic. I used it to create some Flexible Water Heater Hoses.
However on the cheap ones the outer face needs to be ground down because you only want the inner sides of the Jaws to have a bevel. On the cheap ones both inner and outer parts of the Jaws are beveled.

The Nail Nipper is similar to the real Tool except that the Real tool also has jaws on the side.

Oddly the PEX Clamp Tools are expensive.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'll try those clamps with this tool, They are the clamps that are originally used in the later mercedes on literally every connection - it almost looks like its not serviceable at all.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

About the only service you can do to the Oetiker type Clamps is to squeeze them a little tigher if the Hose has shrunk a bit.

In the one pic there is 4 different Clamps on at least one type of the Clamp it is sometimes possible to stick a Screwdriver blade into the open area between the Crimp and spread it out enough that you can unhook one side of the Clamp.
People have done that on the Mercedes CV Joint Boot Clamps

I for a long time replaced only the Hose on My Mercedes Oil Cooler with Hose and Worm Gear Clamps.

One of the connections is seeping but not dripping. I had planed to replace the Hose and try using the Oteiker Clamps at lest on one positon (I am using 2 Worm Gear Hose Clamps per Hose end).

However there is no room under the Hood to easily use the Nail Nipper/Cutter that I have and be able to squeeze it with good force on it.

So you do need room to use what ever Tool you are going to use to put the Crimp on the Clamp.

I have had the Hose on the Oil Cooler for about 6 Years. So I don't have any issue with useng the Oietiker Clamps; especialy if it will extend the time before the Hose starts to seep. Meaning ever 6+ years is not an issue if I had to cut the Clamps to renew the Hose.

By the way the Hose itself is in still in good shape,

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I just found the name of the clamps I have (abt a dozen) - they are clic clamps and their tool is about 15 dollars on ebay.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

That is new information for Me.

Are the Clamps in the pics below the ones you are speaking of?

If so if I am undestanding how they work the clamps are sized for a specific Size. It looks like the Oetiker Clamps have more of a size Range per Clamp.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I use my tile clippers similar to this.
QEP, 8 in. Tile Nipper with Carbide Tips, Drop Forged Steel, Contoured Handles with Cushion Grips, 10003 at The Home Depot - Tablet

Does the job, but the finish product is not as pretty as the real tool.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Yes the picture is of clic clamps, they differ in the sense that clic clamps can be removed without cutting and also reinstalled. They are pretty strong too and dont leave an edge to snag.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Good idea about the Oetiker type clamps. McMaster-Carr sells those. They give a more finished look than hose clamps. Mainly for the look since you will have to cut them off next time you replace the hose in 15 years. I have a nail puller that Diesel911 shows (garage sale buy decades ago) and have used it on CV boot clamps. Can never have enough tools and supplies, though my wife doesn't understand (how does the sausage get made?).

First time that crimp hose connectors confused me was the factory heater hose runs on my Chrysler minivan (rubber hose to metal tube). I couldn't find the "hose assembly" listed anywhere and finally figured out the metal crimp was just a "hose clamp" for quick factory assembly (just like our M-B trans cooler hoses). I peeled off the crimps and replaced the hose, using screw clamps. Today one can buy the whole assembly, but no need.