So i did quite a bit of search to see if i could find an answer with no luck.

Just bought an 83 wagon and am having an issue with one of the window switches. PO told me they had recently worked and had just stopped. After i got it home i switched out the switch (one w/ lockout) for a working one (w/out lockout) from other 300d but it still didn't work. I replaced the fuse as well with no luck.

Wanted to see if someone could point me in the right direction. I've also noticed that neither the lights on the switch or the shifter light comes on. Will a non lockout switch work in place of the lockout? Any other things to check?

thanks!

first make sure the plugs are on right, they can be backward and reversed front to back. the other thing causing me window issues was corrosion on the fuse. remove them and clean the fuse ends and the holders in the box. if the passenger rear window works its not the fuse as they are on the same fuse circuit if that helps., then you can narrow it to just the driver window

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yeah they are on right. and neither the front or rear driver's side work or are lit up. since the original switch was a lockout, does it matter that i used a non-lockout and just didn't plug that in? didn't know if that would affect the circuit or not.

could it be connected to the shifter selection light not working, or is that a separate lighting issue?

It must be a lock out switch to function.




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If I remember correctly, the L/F & R/R window switch is on the same fuse. also R/F & L/R the same. see if your R/R window is working. If not may be the fuse, not always the switch.

here is a DIY on switch repair
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/SwitchRefurb

You could apply 12V to the plug after removing the switch. Brown is always the ground wire.

Pulling the door panel will reveal a plastic block screwed to the door, and having wires attached to it,these are for the window motor. If the other steps don`t work, this will let you know if the motor is at fault.
I would guess the fuse most likely the culpert.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

thanks for the reply. that's the answer i was wondering about...will swap for a lockout switch and hope that works.

thanks!

hmm, i dont have a lockout switch for my drivers door. Isnt the lockout only for the rear doors?

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'14 GLK 350 60000 miles

You can also take the switches apart and clean out all the gunk in them..Just make sure you have a catch tray to catch all the little pieces..there are springs and little BB's in there..I had to plug and unplug a few times to get them back in, in the right direction...

ie: front switch worked the back..wrong..

OK do it over again..re-arrange switches/plugs..till

I got it working right!!

Be gentle around the wood, it is a veneer and will split easy..also most of the consoles have to slide towards rear passenger seat to remove them without breaking anything, unless your peg is already broken off from the underneath of the center wood..keep working on it..you'll get it right!!

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nope.
I often swap wires to opposite side switches when a switch is bad.
either front or back, lockout not lockout works fine.
not hooking up the lockout switch only affects the rear window controls. will not affect the front control of any windows.
I've done this on 123's 126's and 124's.

OP. if you have a working switch from another window, that does work, connect the harness to the window not working to that switch, and try it. if it still does not work, either the wire in the doorjam bellows is broken, or the motor is not working.
with car off, and the door open, try it. does the cabin light dim when the switch is pressed? you could have a siezed regulator/gearbox/motor... fun.

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My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Well I at least got my drivers window working.

Originally i took out the switch that was in it when i got the car and put a working switch in it from my other car. But that didn't work. So I put the original switch back in because it worked when plugged into my other car. And guess what...now my window works! HA. Gotta love when you fix something and you have no idea what you even did...if only every repair was that easy and cheap!

If the problem returns again, you might want to look at the corrugated rubber coupling between the front door and the 'A' pillar. The window wires go thru there and often get broken after 25 years of opening and closing. This a metallurgical problem, wherein the copper in the wire work hardens from all the flexing, becomes brittle, and then breaks. The replacement job is a bit time consuming, but not technically difficult.

See also Vstech comment above.

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150