Did my first valve adjustment on the 83 300D today. It has 240K on it now and according to the records I got with it, the last valve adjustment was about 12K ago. Anyway....the results.

All the valves were too tight to get the feeler gauge between the rocker pad and cam lobe. Not too bad, but still tight. I erred a bit on the side of loose, but the y are all adjusted. I also checked chain stretch by the cam sprocket notch, cam tower mark method. I checked it twice and both times came up with about 2-3 degrees of stretch. No evidence or record that the chain was ever replaced, but it looks NICE!

Now after the work, the car starts easier and idles smoother. I also adjusted the idle up from about 700 where it was to about 850. On the road it feels a lot peppier, and smoother. Shifts are now butter smooth instead of slightly harsh. I noticed a slight tick that comes and goes now, but I figure I might have one of the valves a bit loose.

So, can a valve adjustment make that much of a difference. As I said, it is a lot smoother, a lot peppier, and the shifts are noticeably smoother as well.

Lastly, according to the records, this car has had the oil changed every 5000 miles religiously its entire life and I am keeping up on that. Would that explain the minimal stretch on the chain.

Glenn

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Perfect.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Valve adjustments can make a pretty big difference, especially if they are too tight. As far as the oil changes go, if you're running dino oil I would probably just do it every 3,000 instead, cheap insurance IMO.

Very smooth shifts will wear the transmission out much faster than slightly firm.

850 Idle is a bit high. 700-750 is normal.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

It has been said before on this forum that using the pointers on the cam shaft to measure chain stretch is at best a bit hit and miss. So whilst you've got an idea about it - it may be worthwhile looking to do the 2mm lift as described here:-

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch

As for oil changes - yes they are vital! If you can change over to synthetic oil - here it is now hard to buy the old fashioned stuff but I understand it is different in the US of A...

I've been told that the valves tend to tighten on these engines so a little loose isn't bad at all - well done.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

All the high lighted bits you can put down to your adjustment.
Better to be on the loose side.
Depending on how much you use the car, the start of next winter would be a good time to do them again. It helps cold starting if they are not tight.

Good luck with your cars new lease of life !!

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving