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Ball joint puller tool
Hello,
I've searched, but haven't seen a specific answer... If I want a puller tool to separate ball joints without using a pickle fork, what size puller do I need? 25mm? 27mm? This would be principally for my 82 300cd, which is the car getting worked on now... but tools that can be applied to the list of cars below would be wonderful... Not sure if that is possible or requires a collection of these puller devices... Snap-on has free shipping below $500, so I may splurge if it means I can get this stuff done on a lot of cars... Thanks! |
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/179284-write-up-ball-joints-lower-control-arm-bushings-tool-review-pics.html
Tool review with pics. Excerpt from Bodyart27's writeup: In my quest for a better ball joint popper, I purchased three alternatives from seller “Kinetik Auto Equipment Tools” on eBay. Two models have an arm extending which I thought might be nice as it would provide a counter hold, and thus prevent the rotation I experienced with the Tool Aid popper. They are offered in a 17mm gap and 20mm gap. I found the larger gap to be a close fit on the upper control arm, but I actually ended up using the JTC popper 1916 without the arm. What I liked about this design is that you can spin the tool and adjust the gap (the fulcrum bolt is threaded). It also seemed to “fit” the best on the upper control arm – just a little wiggling and it seats under the boot yet cups the arm well to prevent rotation. |
Right, saw that... But there is still a lot of confusion on my end. For example, the Klann unit:
States 27mm. That is over an inch, and a far difference from 17mm and 20mm. I believe the 3039 BMW tool that has also been mentioned in certain threads is 25mm. So Id hate to buy tools that dont fit right. Meanwhile Id like options to fit lots of cars. Maybe those SIR tools pullers are the best options... Keep in mind, Im not looking to acquire lots of tools and build a workshop. Some of the bigger stuff Id definitely be having my indy do. What I want to be able to do is remove ball joints from other parts carefully, so I can do some stuff and put the old parts back together. Im not pressing in joints or anything like that, just want to be able to remove tie rod ends and stuff like the UCA from steering knuckle without ruining the boots. Since I dont know what size the ball joints are, I dont know how to spec the tool that I want... |
I found the S-K pitman arm puller 92506 on line at this place under Discontinued Handtools at about $20:
http://web.all2ools.com:8106/index.pl/handtools?&wid=1648&func=view&pn=62 But, I thoght they still made it. The AtuoZone Free Rental Tools has their version of the SK Tool small pitman Arm Puller that is about the same size. Perhaps you could barrow that and see if it will fit. Members have mentioned that 2 Hammer Method of releasing the Ball Joint where a Heavy Hammers is held solidly against one side of the Ball Joint while that other side is struck with another heavy Hammer. I have never tried the above method so I cannot say how reliable it is. |
Yeah, Id rather have the right tool. Dont want to trust my "skill" too much, working on my back in the driveway. The right tool pays off. Since I dont have any tools for this besides a pickle fork, I am in a position of great flexibility, so knowing exactly what would work best would be the most optimal thing, as I can get the best tool for the job.
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im not sure how much different the 82 300 is to my w210 ..but if its almost the same ..i used a cheapo harbor freight puller..i had to grind out the fork part of it to fit better but it work perfectly after that..i think it costed 12 dollars.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html |
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http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...6/dc9c41b9.jpg If the tool is usable on a bunch of different cars, I'll gladly buy a $$$ one... I just don't know the right size to procure... |
Post #26 here says Advance Auto parts 3/4 inch puller worked without damaging the UCA boot . http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/254137-w123-ball-joint-replacement-2.html
If you can get it for free and it works, you can't beat the price. If it doesn't work and you don't damage the boot, then you haven't lost much but a little time. Autozone may have something similar, or whatever chain is predominant in your area. O'Reilly's has some pretty good stuff in Texas. |
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I used a pittman arm puller from O'Reilly's free tool loaner program. It worked great when my pickle fork wouldn't. Joseph |
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Below is a pic of the method I used to press off my Ball Joints. It ruins the Nut but it worked (removing the LCA). The make it work with out distorting anything but the Nut (the Nut is backed off several threads) you need a hammer with a 2-3 pound head on it. You want a low velocity but a lot of weight. I still have the same Ball Joints on my Car so since they have been removed previously the Harbor Freight Tool might work for me. |
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