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#1
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300D Won't Start
Help, please anyone! I'm so frustrated with my beloved car...
I have an 85 300D. I was running SVO for a while; she started running a bit rough and was hard to start. Eventually I had to press on the accelerator to get her to start. I put in dinofuel but she ran even worse, stalling every time I took my foot off the accelerator. I bought diesel purge, but she quit as I pulled into my driveway from the auto parts store. I haven't been able to get her started ever since. The engine was rebuilt 2 years ago. I found evidence of algae buildup, so I've since: took down fuel tank and cleaned it out cleaned fuel lines replaced both filters replaced injectors and heat shields replaced all rubber return lines replaced glow plug relay fuse replaced glow plugs used a reamer kit and brush to clean carbon in pre-glow chambers I ensured fuel delivery by loosening hard fuel line to injectors and fuel was being delivered. The injection pump has to be working for the fuel to get pushed, or so I'm told. The fuel lines were bled after priming. Since the motor was rebuilt 2 years ago, I seriously doubt it's a compression issue. I'm just at a complete loss, could anyone please help? It would be sooo greatly appreciated, Thanks!!!!!!! |
#2
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You could have gummed up the piston rings enough to cause really low compression. Try putting an ounce of brake fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO) in each cylinder. Let it sit as long as you can let it, give it at least a day. You'll have to remove the injectors before you do all this or course. After it has sat for a while turn the engine over while having someone hold rags over the injector holes. This will blow out any excess brake fluid or MMO. Then put it all back together and try to start it.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#3
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Have you set the valves lately ?
Do you have a Factory Shop Manual ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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Wouldn't the valves have been adjusted during the rebuild? I do have a Haynes manual...
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#6
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The valves are to be set about every 20,000 miles...
Have you read the Haynes manual ? Sent PM....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#7
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Yes, but missed the 20,000 mile valve adjustment. I did most of the troubleshooting. I've never done an adjustment, is it relatively simple? Thanks!!!
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#8
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news but those symptoms are often reported when an IP fails from having been run on SVO. How long did you run it on SVO?
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#9
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Quote:
and those rules are spelled out in the Haynes manual.... What are you using the Haynes manual for ? To raise your height in your chair ? Go read the Haynes manual and come back and ask questions based on what you do not understand from its presentation. It has better pics than the Mercedes factory shop manual.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#10
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About a year, but if that were the case, wouldn't I be getting no fuel to the injectors?
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#11
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SET YOUR VALVES.... then come back if that does not help...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#12
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Or just do a compression check to verify that the rings do need cleaned up. Having fuel at the loose injector lines is possible with damaged injection pump elements as there is no indication they are capable of raising the fuel pressure to the opening point of the injectors and beyond. There also have been a few cases reported of injectors gummed up or having some problem as well on on vegatable oil. If for example I purchased your car and I have purchased a prior vegatable oil car. There are a whole lot of cleaning things I would do including a real internal soak of the injection pump with a good solvent before using the car. The worse thing to fear is the wvo has caused the rings to tear up the cylinder bores. If something like this has occured it would be a real shame as the engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago. Running a single tank system with no heating and poor vegatable oil probably contributes to this severe problem. Also if the wvo was not properly dewatered it is like putting sandpaper through the injection pump. |
#13
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No one has stated the obvious yet, so I will. Change both the fuel filters first. It is easy and solves many no-start issues, especially if the car was running before the no-start issue. Just be sure to pre-fill the spin on filter first, then crack each injector line and crank until fuel dribbles out (to purge out any air. Then tighten up the injector lines and it should start and run. If not, post back and we can go from there
I know you stated in the original post that you changed the filters, but if you still have crud in the tank, they will clog again in short order.
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#14
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When I did my Marvel Mystrey Soake I used fome skinny plastic tubing shoved in a Funnel with Tape wraped around the end so I could instill the Oil through the Glow Plug Holes. That way you save a little money by not buying Heat Shields. I also reamed out the Carbon from the Glow Plug Holes as an added bonus.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#15
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Quote:
Fuel Tank Screen plugged? Swap the positions of the Fuel Inet and Fuel Oulet Hoses; but have at lease a 1/2 Tank of Fuel. Even though you are seeing Fuel coming out you might not be getting enough Fuel volume. It could be that your Fuel Supply/Lift Pump is gummed up inside and keeping the Valves from sealing or your Pressure Relief/Over Flow valve (see cervans very long thread) is having an issue and not allowing the Fuel supply pressure to be high enough.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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