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Thanks for the excellent pics.
Bend the part in pic #5 back into shape. See Pic; put a piece of Angle Iron shown in Red on the Pic. If you want you can also us another thinner piece of Angle Iron shown in Brow to reinforce the part. You can use JB Weld Epoxy or Epoxy Putty if the surface is not eve along with maybe one Rivet per bend on the Red Angle Iron. Or some light Tack Welds if you have a Welder. The Brown reinforced area may be better of just being epoxied un less you want to use the one of the same rivets that goes through the Red Angle Iron. After that go easy on the Window when going up or down. |
So is the part that needs to be fixed/straightened/reinforced the gold metal piece that slides on the shaft, as Ive tried to show? it seems that from other threads on this topic, it is the angle/straightness of the gold piece with the small rod sticking up (with the clip on it in the bottom pic) that needs to be fixed.
Anyone have any ideas how the late versions of this fix the issue? As I understand it, the late part number is reinforced somehow. These just have some features to the metal to add stiffness to them. Not enough I guess... Id like to get a grasp of how these things work, and what hits where. Ill need to try to recapture how thy are mounted and how the gold piece slides/moves on the geared regulator. Its a start at least. Now I need some warm weather to take the others out of my car! |
Also, how do I know what parts really constitute the regulator versus the motor/gearbox?
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I believe everthing minus the Motor is the Window Regulator. It is the Piece with the Pin that I am speaking of straighten and reinforcing. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...2/IK3_9797.jpg The other alternative would be to make an entire new gold colored Plate out of thicker metal |
Thanks! Saw the mods to your post above.
Welding the angle iron would be best, right? |
JHZR2,
Just wanted to thank you for your post and photos as I am about to enter the mysterious rear window coupe regulator zone myself! Us coupe owners must band together against the evil forces of the "for sedans and wagons only" crowd. |
As this is something I'll be dealing with soon, I'm watching this thread close.. :)
My drivers goes half way, my pass goes all the way, but the glass itself feels (loose). Waiting on the new regulator for my drivers door right now and want to finish it before moving to the next step. On another note, you know those gaps you get in the door seal? seem to be right where the door and the back window meet and also where the door glass and the front triangle glass meet.... well, an easy fix is to cut some black foam insulation used for pipes a little bigger than the gap and stick it in place... works like a charm, not even that noticeable. I'll shape a picture of how I did mine. |
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The other things to play with/replace if they are worn are the grey plastic wedges with screws thru them- they need lube and are what makes the window travel smoothly and in correct relationship to the metal pivot bars. The bend pictured above is effing critical to proper operation. If you are going to reinforce it, I'd suggest having both windows back in the car, assembled and operating correctly and then remove them for welding- it would be a MPITA to weld em and then find out the angle is off. |
I wish you luck, ive bent these back and reinforced tham as well to no avail. The design is $&#@. I plan to adapt a modern regulator to the coupe rear window next year for mine. Please let us know if you get this to work long term. I can get mine to work a couple times but after a week it just folds the parts up into a bent mess again. I believe the answer lies somewhere in the lubrication of the front rail as that is where the dustruction originates, the bent tab is simply an effect of the sticking front roller.
The reason they go half way down after they are bent is because the small arm over centers and goes past its lower mount point. In the correct function the small arm always stays above the regulator slide, when the tab bends it allows it to go past and then pull down instead of pushing it down which results in a huge loss of travel |
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heres the factory reinforced one, its bent also as you can see http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2644053-post9.html |
well folks--i got a pair of manual rear regulators from a euro--they are as reliable as an anvl
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I keep watching for a set, Im planning to cut a coupe rear quarter when I find one local and set up a test fixture. I think the Dodge mini van x-cable drive will fit quite nicely in the coupe quarter window space |
I can see why the factory reinforced one failed... The piece that makes the triangle is just going to bend in/down. IMO there needs to be a vertical metal piece, perpendicular, so the tab can't bend inward...
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it makes no difference. the real problem is that the actuator is on one side and the front track is 16 inches away. if the front sticks, the actuator cant supply a downward component, only a torque. think of trying to lift a weight at the end of a broomstick. the induced torque then jams the mechanism. the short arm then travels down because the motor is very powerful. as it moves down its angle with the triangle bracket becomes small and the force the long arm produces is multiplied by the short leg of the triangle because it is now a very efficient lever. I would guess this bracket even if reinforced, will see 2-300 lbs force becuase of this multiplication angle. no matter how strong the bracket is, it will bend or the short or long arm will bend. solve the front track sticking problem and you will fix it, then the original unreinforced bracket will be more than enough. Ive run my windows up and down with the covers off literally 100's of times and it works perfect if I help the front track. Im going to try sunroof glide wax next before I go to the Dodge tracks |
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