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  #1  
Old 02-25-2011, 08:46 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
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Tie Rod Complete Job Tomorrow

Hello

Thanks for all the help on my threads Ive started and ones Ive brought back from the dead. I have a full puller set now and a pickle fork. Im replacing all tie rods and drag link, steering damper if needed, and idler arm rebuild. Any last minute tips on what to do/how to do it?

Ill be putting the 82 up on jackstands and will remove the air cleaner to help beat out the idler arm bushing and to seal the oil separator inside.

But doing the pulling/replacement, any suggestions on how to make it go smoothly and properly? Should I work from one end to the other, from both ends inward? Some other way?

I intend to photograph the whole thing. Perhaps it is all really simple and nobody really needs instructions, but Im just not that sure of myself and imagine there are others that feel the same way. If I do pictures, hopefully it will help others to have an upfrnt explanation and make it even simpler!

Thanks!

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #2  
Old 02-25-2011, 09:08 PM
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getting ready to do the same on my SD. I will be following closely. Good wrenching!
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Thanks,
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"Spark plugs?...We don't need no stinking spark plugs!"
1985 300SD "Der Silberne Schlitten" 420,000 mi


Wish these were diesel:
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  #3  
Old 02-25-2011, 09:17 PM
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Just making sure - have you seen this?
http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedes%20tie%20rod%20rr1.htm

I need to do this job again my 85, the grease boots on my Febi tie rods dry rotted after 6 months. Awesome.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
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  #4  
Old 02-25-2011, 09:30 PM
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Yeah, I looked at the DG how to. I get the technique, I think, but since Im doing end to end, including dag link/idler, wasnt sure if there was a better way to go in terms of procession from one item to the next, etc.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #5  
Old 02-25-2011, 09:35 PM
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I just did my tie rods today before taking it in for an alignment. My advice is to start on the tire side of the tie rod first. Reason being is that you can get a better angle on the steering arm side if you rotate the tie rod out of the way of the little bump stop it has on there.

Otherwise it's a straightforward job and only took me about 10 minutes to do both. Steering damper and drag link took even less!

Good luck!
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  #6  
Old 02-25-2011, 09:36 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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wow, wont that be nice if I can get the job done in an hour!!!
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #7  
Old 02-25-2011, 09:41 PM
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^You should no problem. Also if you have a mini-sledge around keep it handy. You might have to beat the piss out of the tie rods, but they will pop out should the pickle fork fail. Just remember to keep the nut on a few threads so that it doesn't fall out too hard.
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  #8  
Old 02-26-2011, 01:00 AM
edge's Avatar
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Location: CT
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What are the driving symptoms or visual clue that one needs this work done? Cause I have a clunking sound when I take a slow left turn in my 83 300D.
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  #9  
Old 02-26-2011, 09:37 AM
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Location: New Jersey
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tie rods are play when you grab and wiggle the tire, torn boots. I get a clunking noise from behind the glovebox which I think is due to the idler arm, so Im going after that too...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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