|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Removing Injector Pump
Can someone who has removed an IP help me avoid the lurking pitfalls? This is on an 86 300 SDL, 603 engine.
It appears the at least three special tools are called for, are there ways to get it done without them? I have ordered the cam locking tool. Any advice will be appreciated. Harry |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Big pain in the butt, takes about 4 hours, I think, maybe longer to R&R. Nowhere near as easy as the earlier IPs. Get a manual if you don't have one before you start. Attaching screws are behind the vacuum pump.
All three special tools are REQUIRED -- if you don't use the locking tools for the injection timer, you will break it, and possibly damage the pump shaft too. This is big bucks, very nasty. My mechanic has has several customers decide to live with the oil leak from the bottom cover plate rather than fix it, as it requires pump removal and they decided an oil leak isn't worth what it will take to get the pump off and back on. Good luck!
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the reply Larry.
I do have a manual and I did not see a locking tool for the timer. There is a special tool for removing the chain tensioner, it looks like a socket, maybe splined??? Besides the cam lock, there is a serrated tool for turning the pump until the cam lug lines up for the locking tool. It attaches to the IP input shaft and appears to be designed for hand turning. One statement in the manual has me confused, (What??, only one?) well, many statements. Where the screw plug, for the locking tool is to be removed, it states: "Remove screw plug and turn removed injection pump with serrated wrench until lug is visible in the governor housing hole, push in the locking bolt until it is felt to engage". I would have thought this would be done BEFORE pump removal, otherwise, I don't understand the purpose. BTW, there is a special tool listed as "assembly sleeve" for engines effective 09/89. I am guessing, but it appears that it would install where the pump was and it says it make turning the engine easier. Harry 86 300 SDL |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Sounds right. I think you have to set the IP to the correct timing and lock it before you install it. Not like the older pumps with a serrated sleeve that connects the IP and the timer. When the manual says "governor" it may mean what we would call the timer. Translation can be strange at times.
Usually, the pictures and diagrams help as much as the text. I haven't sprung for the manual yet, have been borrowing it when I need it. I've not messed about with one of these yet, so I can only pass on what my mechanic says. He as avoided doing an R&R in the car, too big a pain. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
So you think maybe I only have to worry about the cam lock during installation? I think you are right for this reason, what if you mailed me an IP from under your work bench, it would not have been timed with my engine but I could use it if I lined it up as per the manual. Thanks, I am good with that part.
you and I are in total agreement about looking at the drawing/pictures, I get half from that source. The best source is from someone who has done the work and that's what I hope to get from here. The timing device is up front and the governor is at the back of the IP, that's where the lock is used. Thanks Harry 86 300 SDL |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Harry:
I've developed a tendency to follow the instructions completely the first time I do something -- saves trouble in the end. If I find I can do things differently later, that is fine, but I would, for instance, hate to have to do the IP R&R twice because the timing slipped too much to set it properly! Hopefully someone else has done this particular job before and can enlighten us -- I have a small oil leak on mine I would like to fix -- cars that drip oil irritate me! Good luck! It is only a mechanical process, however complicated it may be! Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Peter, I'll follow your excellent advice, and the book.
Sorry about the name mix up earlier, I must have been thinking of Larry Bible who also gives excellent advice on this site. I'll wait for my tools and parts to arrive before starting and hope someone who has done the job will pipe in. Harry 86 300 SDL |
Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Tips for removing P/S pump from 115? | joshhol | Diesel Discussion | 6 | 11-16-2004 12:04 AM |
Removing door lock tumblers - 300E | Zeus | Tech Help | 31 | 03-02-2004 01:51 PM |
Procedure for removing steering wheel | Flavio | Tech Help | 4 | 05-15-2002 12:10 AM |
Removing the Speedometer | JOHNSC16V | Tech Help | 2 | 12-19-2001 03:54 PM |
removing metal "spiderweb" fuel lines | NIC | Diesel Discussion | 6 | 09-19-2001 08:24 AM |