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  #16  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:25 PM
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Maybe.

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  #17  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:30 PM
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I blocked off this vacuum line and it works.

It is a 300D and should be similar. I removed the green line at the T and blocked it. It is simple and worth a try.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/75518d1261527820-300d-will-not-shut-off-unless-i-blocked-line-300d-vacuum.jpg
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  #18  
Old 03-02-2011, 01:36 AM
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Question

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Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
Swapping the lines did not solve the problem.

I've asked him to make a short video of the issue.

When he pulled vacuum on the brown line leading to the ignition switch (key off), it shut down.

This tells me the switch works properly.

When he checked for any vacuum on the end of the brown/violet line and turned the key off, no vacuum.

stc... I'm fond of the color myself, he bought it this past Sunday. I did shut down with the key, but took several seconds, now it won't shut of at all.

No clouding on the window/door trim, just a gorgeous example, with all of 60k miles, I believe it.
Did he verify vacuum supply to the switch?
Attached is the correct routing to/from the shutoff valve.
The inner valve leg vents in the run position..
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REWARD!!  (1983 240 auto)-dtrhctyhtdhd.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 03-02-2011, 01:39 AM
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Ummm

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Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
It is a 300D and should be similar. I removed the green line at the T and blocked it. It is simple and worth a try.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=75518&d=1261527820
The green vacuum line is feeding the climate control pods.
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  #20  
Old 03-02-2011, 02:23 AM
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The green vacuum line is feeding the climate control pods.
I had a leak at the pods and the car would not turn off. I fix it this way and never bother with the pods.
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W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
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  #21  
Old 03-02-2011, 02:34 AM
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OK

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I had a leak at the pods and the car would not turn off. I fix it this way and never bother with the pods.
In San Diego you can live with it as is.
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  #22  
Old 03-02-2011, 04:16 AM
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A simple test for the bigger bits in the vacuum system is to get someone to pump the brakes with the engine off and then just listen for escaping air. I noticed a leaking master brake cylinder to brake booster seal that way - and a leaky diaphragm on the vacuum pump...
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  #23  
Old 03-02-2011, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Did he verify vacuum supply to the switch?
Attached is the correct routing to/from the shutoff valve.
The inner valve leg vents in the run position..
Thanks for that pic, his has the same barb marked, not sure which line is connected there.

He pulled vac with the engine off, key in the off position, from the brown line under hood and had his thumb on the end of the brown/violet line at the shut off actuator, he felt vacuum.

When he did the same procedure as above with the engine running, key in the off position and the brown/violet line connected to the shut off actuator, the engine shut off.

It may be this weekend before he can make a video.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
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  #24  
Old 03-02-2011, 09:16 AM
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Remember, that if all else fails, God made the lungs suck (in men at least) to turn off Mercedes diesels. Run a vacuum hose into the passenger compartment from the shut off valve. 2 or 3 quick sucks and she's off.
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  #25  
Old 03-02-2011, 10:02 AM
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Is he getting the same vac value at the shut off valve as what he is applying to make it shut off manually? After I modded my pump I found that it took another gasket thickness on the shutoff valve to get it to shut down quickly.
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  #26  
Old 03-02-2011, 10:18 AM
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^ That was going to be the next test, it got late.

kerry, I have mentioned that, but we should be able to get this right.
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  #27  
Old 03-02-2011, 05:42 PM
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Partial success. It's back the way it was, it does shut off, but takes 6 seconds.

This was accomplished by swapping the the hoses on the main vac line and plugging off the green/yellow line. This is a going to be a separate problem.

The other barb on the main line now goes to the black box on the cam cover and eventually to the transmission, from the side of the VCV. This set up is unknown to me and the manual shows only one barb at the main vac line, making diagnostics a challenge.
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  #28  
Old 03-04-2011, 09:29 PM
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He found someone at least enough familiar with the vac, egr set up, it's a California car, late production.

Got it rerouted and cleaned out the main vac line, shuts off immediately, shifts fine and the HVAC is working properly, he's a happy camper.
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  #29  
Old 03-04-2011, 11:08 PM
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Ah

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Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
He found someone at least enough familiar with the vac, egr set up, it's a California car, late production.

Got it rerouted and cleaned out the main vac line, shuts off immediately, shifts fine and the HVAC is working properly, he's a happy camper.
So the vacuum supply was mis-routed and/or plugged..
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  #30  
Old 03-05-2011, 07:32 AM
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So it would seem.

It looked stock to me, nothing seemingly out of place (except for the door lock system), no additional length added to any lines, but I'm not familiar with a California 240 automatic egr system.

I've asked for pics, as he was not sure just what the mechanic did.

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