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Differential rubber bushings & undercarriage
I finally completed my first phase of work on the w124 300D turbo that I bought last Summer. I've done gsxr's wastegate swap, removed the EGR and AVR, repaired all vacuum leaks, installed a new transmission pressure modulator and finally have the transmission properly adjusted.
While using my mechanic's lift he walked over, took a look at the rubber bushings holding the differential and said, "Those need to be done and it is a big job." I've enclosed a picture of the bushings in question. While taking that picture I've also taken a couple of various other rubber bushings I saw by the rear under-carriage. Any advice on how to replace the differential bushings? If I'm going to do that am I already part way through a complete sub-frame replacement? The car has obviously been around a lot of dry heat, every elastomer is dried out. Please advise as to how I evaluate what parts need to be replaced, what special tools I need and how to go about the job. Thanks. |
#2
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Looks like your diff needs new axle seals as well. Have you checked fluid level in the diff lately? Looks like you have a lot of it cakes on the half-shafts there.
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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto '19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled '21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition '95 E300d - SOLD '84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one '81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter |
#3
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Quote:
Well, I hate to say this but I believe I am a competent "backyard mechanic" but I have very little experience or knowledge with suspensions, transmissions, differentials, etc. That's one of the reasons I wrote this posting because I don't know much (laugh) about this topic. If there is someone in the SF Bay Area who is willing to let me drive over some day ad tell me what I need to do I'll do my best to buy the parts, get the tools and pursue the job but (much as I hate to say it) I'm not sure what to do next but ask for guidance. Thanks. I'll talk to a couple of local mechanics and see what they say. |
#4
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It's hard to tell from the pictures the condition of the suspension components, but they do look better than mine did! You can replace the differential bushings relatively "easily" in comparison to dropping the whole subframe. I did the diff bushings with the whole subframe off the car because it was also very clear I needed new linkage and subframe mounts, so it made sense to do it all at once. If only the diff bushings look extraordinarily bad, though, I would just do those. You do need a special tool. I know some guys have made their own, but I borrowed the proper tool and it made it rather easy (that part, at least!).
Doing the entire subframe is pretty involved, at least I felt it was ... just visit my thread for a preview: A subframe question (just the beginning ...) That said, I did finish it, and the car rides amazingly now (as you can see in the thread, I'm still dealing with a slight, probably unrelated wandering issue, but the improvement is still profound). I'm going to add some photos soon if you want to see some real ugly undercarriage. If you're just doing the diff bushings, you support the car, remove driveshaft (three nuts/bolts), remove the ABS sensor, support the diff, remove two rear bolts, remove front nut on top of front diff mounts (that was really tough, even though I was doing it OFF the car), carefully lower diff, use tool to remove rear bushings toward front of vehicle (they're tapered so direction matters), use tool to push in new bushings from front rearward taking care to get the right "clocking," lift diff back up and slide in new front mounts (don't forget the spacer washer), replace bolts and nut, replace driveshaft and sensor. That's not a thorough writeup at all, and I might have missed something, but I just wanted to give you an idea of what's involved. If you decide to do it, I could write something more detailed and add some pics too. I would also recommend ordering new hardware (the bolt and nut for the front and the rear bolts) in addition to the mounts. They were very rusted and the top nut stripped a lot.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#5
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Dr_SJH, I also replaced all the subframe bushings/mounts and the three differential mounts with the subframe out of the car. The write up by BodhiBenz and others was a big help. It is a labor intensive project but, not really that complicated. Plan on two days to complete the job. I made a press tool to remove the subframe mounts and used a Sawzall to remove the two diff busings pressed into the subframe. There are lots of people that have done this and can help you if you get stuck.
BodhiBenz, I have also been fighting a wandering problem that is definitely in the front end. Alignment is spot on. I took mine to an INDY and he found that the idler bushing bolt was installed with an impact gun. He used a breaker bar and a 3' pipe to break it loose and properly re-torque it. The steering linkage would take a set when I corrected in crosswinds and get stuck there. So I was always correcting to stay in my lane at speed. The steering gear is now able to "read" the road and is much better, but still not perfect in crosswinds.
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1987 300D 146K Original #14 Head One eye on the road, the other on the temp. gauge Gone But Not Forgotten 1983 380 SEL Long gone 1983 300SD Wish I hadn't traded it in on a 90' Corvette 1989 300SE My all time favorite 1995 E420 Went like a bullet |
#6
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Well I'll definitely be doing the dif bushings and I also do the subframe if mine needs it.
The brief description you provided helped. Thanks. I'll start reading about what's involved. |
#7
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Answer
Quote:
MB# 022 997 98 47 Fastlane: Rear Final Drive Seal, x2 per car http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1637842 MB#124 351 13 42 Fastlane: Differential Mount, Subframe to differential housing, Front Section, x2 per car http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1630830 MB# 124 352 77 65 Fastlane: Differential Mount, Subframe to differential housing, Rear Section, x2 per car http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1633629 MB# 220 352 02 27 Fastlane: Joint, knuckle to lower control arm, x2 per car http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1716729 MB# 202 352 01 65 Fastlane: Bushing, lower control arm, x2 per car http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1636222 MB# 124 351 02 42 Fastlane:Mount, forward pair of the rear sub-frame, x2 per car http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1624039 MB# 124 350 03 41 Fastlane:Mount, rear pair of the rear sub-frame, x2 per car http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1614000 This kit is what I use. Suspension kit rear multi link Suspension kit rear multi link Here are the individual parts MB# 2103502153 Fastlane: TIE ROD, REAR x2 http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1619903 MB# 2103503306 Fastlane: strut arm, rear x2 http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1627574 when replacing earlier version (1) 210 350 45 06 control arm repair kit and (1) 210 352 00 43 sleeve are required per side. MB# 2103503406 Fastlane: Camber Strut New Style x2 http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1621909 when replacing earlier version (1) 210 350 45 06 control arm repair kit and (1) 210 352 00 43 sleeve are required per side. MB# 2103503806 Fastlane: Thrust Arm - Rear x2 http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1622022 when replacing earlier version (1) 210 350 45 06 control arm repair kit and (1) 210 352 00 43 sleeve are required per side. MB# 210 350 45 06 Fastlane: Control Arm Repair Kit - Rear x3 http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1634334 MB# 210 352 00 43 Fastlane: Control Arm Bushing - Rear x3 http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1641330 .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ Last edited by whunter; 06-30-2012 at 02:01 AM. |
#8
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Thanks a lot.
I'll wait until mid May when I'll have the time but it'll give me something to think about in the meantime. |
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