Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-05-2011, 07:05 PM
sjh sjh is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 580
Differential rubber bushings & undercarriage

I finally completed my first phase of work on the w124 300D turbo that I bought last Summer. I've done gsxr's wastegate swap, removed the EGR and AVR, repaired all vacuum leaks, installed a new transmission pressure modulator and finally have the transmission properly adjusted.

While using my mechanic's lift he walked over, took a look at the rubber bushings holding the differential and said, "Those need to be done and it is a big job."

I've enclosed a picture of the bushings in question. While taking that picture I've also taken a couple of various other rubber bushings I saw by the rear under-carriage.

Any advice on how to replace the differential bushings? If I'm going to do that am I already part way through a complete sub-frame replacement? The car has obviously been around a lot of dry heat, every elastomer is dried out. Please advise as to how I evaluate what parts need to be replaced, what special tools I need and how to go about the job.

Thanks.

Attached Thumbnails
Differential rubber bushings & undercarriage-01.jpg   Differential rubber bushings & undercarriage-02.jpg   Differential rubber bushings & undercarriage-03.jpg   Differential rubber bushings & undercarriage-04.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-05-2011, 07:38 PM
Vice President of Snark
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,230
Looks like your diff needs new axle seals as well. Have you checked fluid level in the diff lately? Looks like you have a lot of it cakes on the half-shafts there.
__________________
'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-05-2011, 08:54 PM
sjh sjh is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 580
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewjtx View Post
Looks like your diff needs new axle seals as well. Have you checked fluid level in the diff lately? Looks like you have a lot of it cakes on the half-shafts there.

Well, I hate to say this but I believe I am a competent "backyard mechanic" but I have very little experience or knowledge with suspensions, transmissions, differentials, etc.

That's one of the reasons I wrote this posting because I don't know much (laugh) about this topic.

If there is someone in the SF Bay Area who is willing to let me drive over some day ad tell me what I need to do I'll do my best to buy the parts, get the tools and pursue the job but (much as I hate to say it) I'm not sure what to do next but ask for guidance.

Thanks. I'll talk to a couple of local mechanics and see what they say.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-06-2011, 02:06 AM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast
Posts: 3,005
It's hard to tell from the pictures the condition of the suspension components, but they do look better than mine did! You can replace the differential bushings relatively "easily" in comparison to dropping the whole subframe. I did the diff bushings with the whole subframe off the car because it was also very clear I needed new linkage and subframe mounts, so it made sense to do it all at once. If only the diff bushings look extraordinarily bad, though, I would just do those. You do need a special tool. I know some guys have made their own, but I borrowed the proper tool and it made it rather easy (that part, at least!).
Doing the entire subframe is pretty involved, at least I felt it was ... just visit my thread for a preview: A subframe question (just the beginning ...) That said, I did finish it, and the car rides amazingly now (as you can see in the thread, I'm still dealing with a slight, probably unrelated wandering issue, but the improvement is still profound). I'm going to add some photos soon if you want to see some real ugly undercarriage.
If you're just doing the diff bushings, you support the car, remove driveshaft (three nuts/bolts), remove the ABS sensor, support the diff, remove two rear bolts, remove front nut on top of front diff mounts (that was really tough, even though I was doing it OFF the car), carefully lower diff, use tool to remove rear bushings toward front of vehicle (they're tapered so direction matters), use tool to push in new bushings from front rearward taking care to get the right "clocking," lift diff back up and slide in new front mounts (don't forget the spacer washer), replace bolts and nut, replace driveshaft and sensor.
That's not a thorough writeup at all, and I might have missed something, but I just wanted to give you an idea of what's involved. If you decide to do it, I could write something more detailed and add some pics too. I would also recommend ordering new hardware (the bolt and nut for the front and the rear bolts) in addition to the mounts. They were very rusted and the top nut stripped a lot.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-06-2011, 11:58 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Streetsboro, OH
Posts: 245
Dr_SJH, I also replaced all the subframe bushings/mounts and the three differential mounts with the subframe out of the car. The write up by BodhiBenz and others was a big help. It is a labor intensive project but, not really that complicated. Plan on two days to complete the job. I made a press tool to remove the subframe mounts and used a Sawzall to remove the two diff busings pressed into the subframe. There are lots of people that have done this and can help you if you get stuck.

BodhiBenz, I have also been fighting a wandering problem that is definitely in the front end. Alignment is spot on. I took mine to an INDY and he found that the idler bushing bolt was installed with an impact gun. He used a breaker bar and a 3' pipe to break it loose and properly re-torque it. The steering linkage would take a set when I corrected in crosswinds and get stuck there. So I was always correcting to stay in my lane at speed. The steering gear is now able to "read" the road and is much better, but still not perfect in crosswinds.
__________________
1987 300D 146K Original #14 Head
One eye on the road, the other on the temp. gauge

Gone But Not Forgotten
1983 380 SEL Long gone
1983 300SD Wish I hadn't traded it in on a 90' Corvette
1989 300SE My all time favorite
1995 E420 Went like a bullet
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-06-2011, 12:29 PM
sjh sjh is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 580
Well I'll definitely be doing the dif bushings and I also do the subframe if mine needs it.

The brief description you provided helped. Thanks.

I'll start reading about what's involved.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-06-2011, 01:36 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,416
Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_SJH View Post
I finally completed my first phase of work on the w124 300D turbo that I bought last Summer. I've done gsxr's wastegate swap, removed the EGR and AVR, repaired all vacuum leaks, installed a new transmission pressure modulator and finally have the transmission properly adjusted.

While using my mechanic's lift he walked over, took a look at the rubber bushings holding the differential and said, "Those need to be done and it is a big job."

I've enclosed a picture of the bushings in question. While taking that picture I've also taken a couple of various other rubber bushings I saw by the rear under-carriage.

Any advice on how to replace the differential bushings? If I'm going to do that am I already part way through a complete sub-frame replacement? The car has obviously been around a lot of dry heat, every elastomer is dried out. Please advise as to how I evaluate what parts need to be replaced, what special tools I need and how to go about the job.

Thanks.
Here is what you need for a full rear suspension rebuild, and it is all DIY.

MB# 022 997 98 47
Fastlane: Rear Final Drive Seal, x2 per car
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1637842

MB#124 351 13 42
Fastlane: Differential Mount, Subframe to differential housing, Front Section, x2 per car
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1630830

MB# 124 352 77 65
Fastlane: Differential Mount, Subframe to differential housing, Rear Section, x2 per car
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1633629

MB# 220 352 02 27
Fastlane: Joint, knuckle to lower control arm, x2 per car
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1716729

MB# 202 352 01 65
Fastlane: Bushing, lower control arm, x2 per car
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1636222

MB# 124 351 02 42
Fastlane:Mount, forward pair of the rear sub-frame, x2 per car
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1624039

MB# 124 350 03 41
Fastlane:Mount, rear pair of the rear sub-frame, x2 per car
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1614000



This kit is what I use.
Suspension kit rear multi link
Suspension kit rear multi link


Here are the individual parts

MB# 2103502153
Fastlane: TIE ROD, REAR x2
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1619903

MB# 2103503306
Fastlane: strut arm, rear x2
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1627574
when replacing earlier version (1) 210 350 45 06 control arm repair kit and (1) 210 352 00 43 sleeve are required per side.

MB# 2103503406
Fastlane: Camber Strut New Style x2
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1621909
when replacing earlier version (1) 210 350 45 06 control arm repair kit and (1) 210 352 00 43 sleeve are required per side.

MB# 2103503806
Fastlane: Thrust Arm - Rear x2
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1622022
when replacing earlier version (1) 210 350 45 06 control arm repair kit and (1) 210 352 00 43 sleeve are required per side.

MB# 210 350 45 06
Fastlane: Control Arm Repair Kit - Rear x3
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1634334

MB# 210 352 00 43
Fastlane: Control Arm Bushing - Rear x3
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1641330




.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Last edited by whunter; 06-30-2012 at 02:01 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-06-2011, 01:54 PM
sjh sjh is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 580
Thanks a lot.

I'll wait until mid May when I'll have the time but it'll give me something to think about in the meantime.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page