Lower Control Arm Project - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SD Blue · #16 03-11-2011, 09:21 PM

I'm not sure about the W123 but on the W126, the UCA ball joint has a finer thread pitch and the only place that carried a nut was the dealer. Because of the finer thread pitch, it will be next to impossible to find a die for it. I had to resort to fine jewelers files and 10X magnifier. (IIRC, it's something like 12mm with 1.0mm pitch. Most usual is 1.25mm and 1.5mm for 12mm dia. bolts)

colincoon · #17 03-11-2011, 09:26 PM

^It's 12mm x 1mm, I know this because I had to special order about 50 locknuts for my front end...

vstech · #18 03-11-2011, 09:39 PM

... I thought you had the ball joint popper... I've got a klann popper... could have included it if I'd known...

byronnash · #19 03-11-2011, 10:39 PM

I rented a popper, but it slipped or something and tweaked the bolt just a little on the edge.

byronnash · #20 03-11-2011, 10:41 PM

I got the inner bushings out tonight by grinding off the flared end of the shaft and banging on it with a punch. I have the new one in the freezer now, hopefully it will shrink a little and I can get the new one in easily.

Diesel911 · #21 03-12-2011, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD Blue

I'm not sure about the W123 but on the W126, the UCA ball joint has a finer thread pitch and the only place that carried a nut was the dealer. Because of the finer thread pitch, it will be next to impossible to find a die for it. I had to resort to fine jewelers files and 10X magnifier. (IIRC, it's something like 12mm with 1.0mm pitch. Most usual is 1.25mm and 1.5mm for 12mm dia. bolts)

(I am not saying either of the below fit the PO's problem.)
Found a round die on eBay = 12mm 12 x 1.0 Metric Die M12 x 1mm Pitch
$7+$5 shipping. So they are available.
There is even a 12mm 12 x 0.5 Metric Right Hand Die M12 x .5 Pitch round Die on eBay.
Shipped direct from China

Diesel911 · #22 03-12-2011, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by byronnash

I rented a popper, but it slipped or something and tweaked the bolt just a little on the edge.

Depending on how badly mushed it is you could simply grind off the area. If the area that the self locking part of the Nut would lock on is ground of you could degrease with Brake Cleaner and install the nut with Loctite.

byronnash · #23 03-12-2011, 10:43 PM

Almost have the driver side back together. I got the new bushings in with a threaded rod like some of you have done. The UCA bolt was able to be recovered with a little bit of filing. Everything is back in place and bolted on except the wheel hub and heat shield.

The main issue now is getting th spring compressor out. The hole it went through just isn't big enough to go through. What have you guys used to widen that hole a bit? I worked on it with my dremel until the grinding wheel broke. I think I probably need something heavier though. I'm sure vstech will appreciate it if I don't make his spring compressor a permanent addition to my suspension.

Yak · #24 03-12-2011, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by byronnash

Almost have the driver side back together. I got the new bushings in with a threaded rod like some of you have done. The UCA bolt was able to be recovered with a little bit of filing. Everything is back in place and bolted on except the wheel hub and heat shield.

The main issue now is getting th spring compressor out. The hole it went through just isn't big enough to go through. What have you guys used to widen that hole a bit? I worked on it with my dremel until the grinding wheel broke. I think I probably need something heavier though. I'm sure vstech will appreciate it if I don't make his spring compressor a permanent addition to my suspension.

Dremel with a grinding stone and a round file. Maybe 3/8 inch diameter "rat tail" file.

Diesel911 · #25 03-13-2011, 01:11 AM

Rotary Files that are made specific for Metal on a Variable Speed Drill Motor work OK on bigger jobs.

They have High Speed Steel ones and Carbide ones. You need to find a good speed that will not overheat them or in the case of the Carbide one they an chip if you use them at a speed that causes it to bounce on what you are working on.

Another option would be to use a larger Grinding Stone in conjunction with a Drill Motor.

1stbenznc · #26 03-13-2011, 10:36 AM

Doesn't make sense. It went in but will not come out?? Never heard of having to cut bigger holes! I know, once loosened, I had to rotate the tool around a bit to get the right angle. Did you try lowering and jacking up the lower control arm to get the right geometry for it to fall out? Once the plates are out shorten the shaft again - easier to play with....

byronnash · #27 03-14-2011, 09:23 AM

I got it out last night. It went in under pressure. A dremel carbide cutting bit was able to shave off enough metal. I widened the other hole before putting in the spring compressor of the other side. It didn't need much, maybe 1mm or 2mm. It seems like the two layers of metal on the body were misaligned just a fraction.

I dropped off the passenger side spindle at the shop this morning. I wasn't able to get the ball joint out so I paid a local place to press them out and the new ones in for me. I'm hoping to knock out the rest of this tonight if I can. Now that I know about how everything works it should go a lot faster!

When I put the wheel hubs back on, how much grease do you use and where all does it need to go?

winmutt · #28 03-14-2011, 03:36 PM

Probably to late for this but use the 126 lca bearing and make sure you replace the strut rod bushing under the spring. Even if you did everything already its probably a good idea to go back in there and replace the strut rod bushing while you have a compressor around.