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Lower Control Arm Project
I finally rented vstech's spring compressor and got started on my lower control arm rebuild tonight. I have all the parts off the car and apart. I was not able to get the spring all the way out and didn't want to start banging it so I left it compressed and just sort of hanging up there. The only two things I can't get disassembled right now are the lower control arm bushing and the ball joint from the spindle. I threaded in the new guide rod mount and put in the new bushings that connect the guide rod to the LCA.
3 questions for the experts on here.
Thanks!
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"Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD |
#2
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To remove the bushing from the control arm, you just cut/saw the sides of the bushing and punch them out. To unhook the LCA from the spindle, I either wack it fork tool or get a big hammer and wack it hard as hard as I can at the LCA eye. When hitting it very hard, it will come apart. If the UCA balljoint stud is mushroomed and threads are damaged, it's probably best to get a new UCA. .
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#3
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Here's how I did my LCA:-
How I ended up fitting the bushings to my W123 300D LCA With regards to the UCA - I'd just replace the whole thing - life is too short and they don't cost so much at the moment... I've kept my old one for when they reach unobtainium status! (I'll be waiting for a long time)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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See the photo below. It feels like the top of the spring is just really tight in the space. It's not in the way so far. The spring compressor only went through the hole up top under some pressure.
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"Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD |
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Most people tend to file away a little bit of metal on this hole to make a clearance fit for the compressor. Get a rubber hammer and very GENTLY tap the top of the compressor so that it falls below. CATCH THE SPRING! Don't let it drop - I don't want to read that the compressor failed and that you've now got a W123 front spring wedged in your nuts...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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Ball Joint Nightmare - chapter 2; you might want to read the complete thread the address below starts on page 2 of the thread.
Beating on the side of the Control Arm to release the Ball Joint from the Taper 2nd page Ball Joint Nightmare - chapter 2 I have never tried the above mentioned method. If it works please post the results. Somewhere in our DIY sedtion one of the members tested several tools to press The Ball Joint off the Sindle. One of the Tools that worked was one he already had. He called it a Pitman Arm Puller but the one he used is slightly smaller than a Pitman Arm Puller; often labled Tie Rod puller see Pic. He said it fit well.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 03-11-2011 at 01:27 PM. |
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Which side uca did you damage? I have an extra I will let go of for $30 bucks. It's the drivers side.
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#8
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DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/ http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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The UCA Ball Joint mushroomed because the puller I was using slipped and wasn't sitting right in the middle of the bolt. I guess I should have left the nut on there to prevent it.
I'll try that pitman arm puller to get the LCA ball joint out of the arm. It came out of the steering knuckle pretty easy with a fork.
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"Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD |
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The threads can be fixed by retaping them. Rental from the Auto store.
If you can't but the whole control arm with new bushings and ball joint, like stated above, you really need to WORK on them to get them out. I had to actually tear/punch out the rubber center section, then carefully cut the side of the metal bushing with a hacksaw, THEN use a air hammer to get the damn thing out. It was a real bear! See post #15 here.... 124 front control arm bushings and replacement....snag Make sure the new bushing go in the correct orientation. and only tighten then when car is sitting back on the ground. I know on the w124's one mark goes vertical and the other horizontal. Hopefully you marked or took pictures of the orientation of the c-arm bolts and washers. An allignment will be in order after. The spring compressor looked to be the correct MB tool . The spring is likely just stuck next to the bubber spring pad , wedged up in there. With some wiggling will fall out - catch it!
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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on... |
#11
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Quote:
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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on... |
#12
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I'm hoping I can retap or grind off just the corner of the stud where it got smushed. I just put that UCA on in October. Arggh.
An alignment is my first stop after I get this thing rolling again!
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"Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD |
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I'm putting 126 inner bushings in per Roy's advice and it looks like they are easier to get in than the 123 ones.
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"Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD |
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#15
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I was referring to the LCA there. If I can't get the threads fixed on the UCA, I'll replace the whole thing.
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"Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD |
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