While replacing my glow plugs I removed some nuts that didn't need to be removed. I'm not 100% sure what part they are, but it's where the fuel injector hardlines attach.


See the red arrows?

I want to make sure I put them back to spec, so can someone tell me how tight to get them? Should I throw some loctite on there too?

Thanks!

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1982 300TD

Everything I know about cars I learned from PeachParts.

The attachment may help.

Then again, maybe not.

I can't find any other info on it.

Attached Files

delivery valve, 617.9:07_1-210.pdf (316.9 KB, 234 views)

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83 SD

84 CD

Thanks! Only after I got them all off did I realize I had a "oops" on my hands.

Looks like 40-50. If anything it gives me some new words to search with.

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1982 300TD

Everything I know about cars I learned from PeachParts.

This thread confirms:

Rough idle on 87 300D solved!

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1982 300TD

Everything I know about cars I learned from PeachParts.

Maybe I'm wrong but in that post I think hes talking about torquing the delivery valves on the later IP, I must be wrong or somebody would have said something by now. In the PDF there is a reference to those bolts. You might want to hold off till one of the more knowledgeable IP guys chimes in. Or maybe not touching those nuts is MB myth, I'll check Snoops

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

AND PRAY TO WHATEVER DEITY YOU PREFER THAT THE "HOLDER" [FLANGE]HAS NOT MOVED !

Loosening the Nuts in Your Picture ALLOWS the Technician at the Bosch Diesel Service Station to ADJUST the Pump's Fuel Flow Rate.
ON A MACHINE THAT COSTS OVER $100,000.00.

NOTE to Other OM616,OM617 Owners:
DO Not Play with these Nuts or the Flanges that they Secure!
NOTHING GOOD CAN COME OF "SELF ADJUSTING" the fuel flow rates!
AND If you do,You'll NEVER get the Pump back in adjustment Without removing it and having Bosch ReCalibrate it on a Test Bench.

BTW,
No Loctite !

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

So if the flanges have not been moved, hes ok?

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

You will not find a torque spec in the Mercedes Service Manuals because the Nuts Pictured only supposed to be loosened and tightened by the person who assembled the Fuel Injection Pump.

The best you can do is remove one of the already loosened Nuts and find out the size and threads and look at a standard torque chart for that metric size and threads.
You might want to reduce the standard torque by 10% because the Fuel Injection Pump Housing is Aluminum.

You could visit a Bosch Certified Fuel Injection Shop and explain you situation and they might give you the correct Torque. Besure to tell them that you removed only one of the Nuts on the Elements and did not turn any of the Parts the Nuts hold down.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Ugh. Good to know that those bolts should never be touched. Luckily I only loosened them and didn't move the flanges.

I'll reloosen a nut and report back here what the standard torque chart says. Hopefully no one else will ever need that information, but it'll be nice to have it recorded.

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1982 300TD

Everything I know about cars I learned from PeachParts.

The thing that might confuse people is the "flanges" on the later (turbo) and Euro M pumps are removed to do the delivery valve seals (by mire mortals) and you do torque those,
which would be pumps with the splined deliver valve.

Seems finding another IP would be relatively easy if need be.
Its just the hassle of doing the swap

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

What would my symptoms be if I royally f*cked it up?

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1982 300TD

Everything I know about cars I learned from PeachParts.

Yah, well if this thread degenerated into a "heres how I (everyone) screwed up" thread, it would probably go on forever. I put an IP in 180 degrees off and then tried to tow start the car, it ran, sort of, I was lucky I didnt break something, point is theres lots of screw ups, bright side, maybe your thread will save the next guy. So let us know when you light it off, or if you plan to take it to Bosch maybe you dont't fire it up? anyway, good luck

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Oh, it's been started up and driven, but only 100 feet or so to the parking lot next door so I could work on the SLS. Nothing blew up. No new issues that I noticed, granted the car has been driving 50 miles since I bought it a year ago.

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1982 300TD

Everything I know about cars I learned from PeachParts.

Great, at 50 miles a year you'll still have a nice TD when all ours have been turned into soup cans

I guess you wont know for, more or less, sure, till you put a good load on it, yah at least it didn't blow up

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Actually this Thread is a un-screwed up Thread
Becaue the OP un-screwed the wrong thing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel