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#1
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need help, diesel idle problem
Let me first start off by stating what exactly the car is doing. When idling, my 83 300SD will rock back and forth to the point it almost makes you sea-sick. If you open the hood up and look at the engine, it is obvious something is not right, the engine is moving left to right i'd guess by about an inch or more. If you turn on the a/c compressor, or/and put the car into gear, the rocking is greatly reduced. I have just recently replaced both motor mounts. Then tonight, i loosened each inector line by the top nut on the injector one at a time to see if one injector being loose had "less" of an effect on the rocking then the others did. They all had the same effect, making it much worse. I then realized that i had cracked most of the cigar hoses that connect each injector to the other one(white?, or white at some point). The only sufficient tubing i could find is obviously not designed to carry fuel, but i used it anyway just so i can get to and from school tomarrow. What could my problem be? if those lines are leaking will it cause the engine to not idle correctly? Also, now that the lines are leaking(using the makeshift tubing) the engine also has a new tft tft tft sound, in addition to the normal diesel sound. Any help is appreciated. Oh yea, one more off topic question, how do these cars do in the snow? tires are toyo proxes tpt's.
thanks Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#2
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I forgot to mention, the problem only exists once the engine is up to operating temp.
thnx Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#3
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Rack dampner bolt. On the back of the injection pump, some say adjust it in, but just buy a new one for $25 at the dealer cause its most likely worn out.
Screw it in until you feel some resistance then make 1 full turn in and lock it with the locknut. This bolt dampens the natural oscillations the injection pump makes. |
#4
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thanks turbodiesel, could you please be a little more specific on which bolt your talking about? i just went out to my car and adjusted a bolt that has a 14mm lock nut and a flat head screw, and all that seemed to do was mess around with the idle speed of the car. I did get it to idle smoother by backing that bolt off, but as soon as the rpms come up to where they were, the car oscilates again. Thanks,
Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#5
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Its on the back of the injection pump, facing the firewall.
I think its 12mm with a 10mm locknut or something like that. You can try turning it in until the engine stops oscillating.. |
#6
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thanks, that makes more sense. I remember seeing that bolt and it appears it is all the way turned in. That could be my problem in itself, maybe it has been adjusted before? thanks again,
Ryan
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83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#7
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Yes, there is only so much it can be adjusted, the pin at the end of the bolt gets worn, and you can only adjust it so much. Its $25 bucks at the dealer, a little steep for a bolt, but its good for 200,000 more miles.
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#8
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Definitely worth the $25 for the new rack pin. I believe that the dealership will know it as the Injector Pump Rack Bolt. Most likely your IP rack is vibrating and the rack pin hasn't enough pin left to hold it in place. The lock nut is 14mm and the adjustment bolt is 12mm.
BTW, turbodiesel, that is one nice looking buggy. The wheels are perfect for the model. |
#9
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http://www.mb-diesel-cars.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=000001
I wrote a how to on this a while ago, it spells everything out
__________________
2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried" 1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/119226-1982-300d-sale.html#post852260 1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP |
#10
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Well as you will see this weekened, my paint isnt so perfect and the paint on the wheels are flaking.. it is a picture of what my car is supposed to look like
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#11
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Part number
Anyone have an idea as to part number for the rack bolt for a 1985 300D turbo. My local MB dealer can't seem to figure it out !
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David McDonald 1981 240D 1985 300D (wrecked) 1985 300TD 365,000 miles 1969 Mustang Fastback |
#12
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I got it right here actually:
000-074-26-74 that should be it - I got it off of an old reciept from the local MB Dealer, all it says is "Pin"
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2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried" 1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=852260 1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP |
#13
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if i dont replace this will it harm anything else? e.g. wear out motor mounts/shocks quicker etc? thanks,
Ryan
__________________
83 300SD.......sold 96 integra SE....sold 99 a4 quattro....sold 2001 IS300.......sold 2002 330i.........current. 2004 highlander limited....current. |
#14
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good question.
As far as I know it won't make a big difference, it'll jsut get so anoying you'll spring for the $30
__________________
2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried" 1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=852260 1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP |
#15
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That kind of vibration is sure to knock the valves out of adjustment far earlier than the regular 15K miles. Can't be a good thing for the IP, water pump, PS pump, vacuum pump ...
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