Decision time in DFW - sell for parts or fix - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Skid Row Joe · #31 03-23-2011, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

Not an option as I have a CDL liscense. I should have dropped it to regular years ago since I no longer serve as the backup bus driver of class trips. I'll drop it at next renewal but too late for this citation.

I see.

I have heard they are more costly to maintain (CDLs) and I believe the CDL has a zero tollerance BAC (blood alcohol content level) unlike regular DLs. I have maintained my MC (motorcycle) designation on my regular DL, even though costlier, so that if ever I want to test ride or get another vintage MC to ride, I'm good to go. It was a PITA getting the MC license in the first place 25+ years ago at the DPS in Carrollton/Farmers Branch.

Any chance of posting pictures of the wrecked/damaged area(s) on your 300? Some of the experts in body shop workings here, could then comment on the extent of damage your prized MB suffered.

Cr from Texas · #32 03-23-2011, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

I see.

I have heard they are more costly to maintain (CDLs) and I believe the CDL has a zero tollerance BAC (blood alcohol content level) unlike regular DLs. I have maintained my MC (motorcycle) designation on my regular DL, even though costlier, so that if ever I want to test ride or get another vintage MC to ride, I'm good to go. It was a PITA getting the MC license in the first place 25+ years ago at the DPS in Carrollton/Farmers Branch.

Any chance of posting pictures of the wrecked/damaged area(s) on your 300? Some of the experts in body shop workings here, could then comment on the extent of damage your prized MB suffered.

I'll take some pictures to post. The really expensive part is the paint job. I also maintain a MC designation (since 1960) and the CDL has a passenger endorsement. Right, no tolerance and more expensive.

PanZZer, Your private message box is full so my last message was rejected.

alamostation · #33 03-23-2011, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

The citation for; 'Following Too Closely' I would think may be nullified, in Texas it is known as (Deferred Adjudication) by your successful completion of a Texas State Approved, Defensive Driving course for $30.00.

That is what I did to negate a '10 mph over the limit' citation I received when nabbed at 51 mph in a 40 mph zone while speeding to the periodontist's office in Dallas a few years ago. The cost to pay the City of Dallas, was $125.00, and it did not go on my driving record.

In December 2010, I took the same course to keep my vehicle insurance premiums at their bare-bones level.

Google 'Defensive Driving in Texas' on the Internet - and you can find the nearest course offering to where you live.

This is the closest thing to good advice you have gotten as far as the ticket is concerned.

Options for most Texas drivers:

1. If you have not done so in the past year, you can take a defensive driving course and the ticket will be dismissed. The course is $30, but you will still have to pay court costs of $150 to $200.

Options for you and other Texas drivers:

2. If you don't qualify for the defensive driving option, ask the judge for deferred adjudication. If you go a certain period, usually six months without another offense, the ticket will be dismissed. This usually involves a little more money than defensive driving.

3. Hire a ticket lawyer. This can be done after you muck up either of the first two options if you do it within days of the muck up. The ticket lawyer will appeal the ticket to County Court or a County Court at Law, depending on the county, and it will be placed on the docket with assaults, DWI's, thefts up to $1500 and other misdemeanors.

Neither the prosecutor nor the judge wants to tie up the court over a traffic ticket. If the case ever comes up on the docket, you will be offered the option of pleading guily to a non-moving violation, such as not pulling far enough off the roadway when your ticket was written, and having the original charge dismissed.

charmalu · #34 03-23-2011, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

Not an option as I have a CDL liscense. I should have dropped it to regular years ago since I no longer serve as the backup bus driver of class trips. I'll drop it at next renewal but too late for this citation.

I have a CDL also since about 1970, since I retired, I just kept it. never know when I want to grab hold of a 13spd shifter again. big expence with the CDL is the Green card (Medical) every 2 yrs.

I thought the CDL stipulation was a Calif law, where I couldn`t go to traffic school. so it is a FED law. HMMMM. No discrimination here.

Traffic coming onto the freeway, is to merge with the traffic flow, not impede it. but they just crowd in w/o regard to any one else. it is all about them. Merge is an IQ test.

when I see traffic merging, I just back off and let them have it, not worth worring about my rights.

CR I really feel for you that you got your Benz bent up., and being the original owner really makes it hard to see it go if that is the decision you make. Dumping $6000 into it to get her back on the road, you will still be ahead of the game, compared to buying a newer car with the higher insurance, registration and maybe payments.

Charlie

panZZer · #35 03-24-2011, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alamostation

This is the closest thing to good advice you have gotten as far as the ticket is concerned.

Options for most Texas drivers:

1. If you have not done so in the past year, you can take a defensive driving course and the ticket will be dismissed. The course is $30, but you will still have to pay court costs of $150 to $200.

Options for you and other Texas drivers:

2. If you don't qualify for the defensive driving option, ask the judge for deferred adjudication. If you go a certain period, usually six months without another offense, the ticket will be dismissed. This usually involves a little more money than defensive driving.

3. Hire a ticket lawyer. This can be done after you muck up either of the first two options if you do it within days of the muck up. The ticket lawyer will appeal the ticket to County Court or a County Court at Law, depending on the county, and it will be placed on the docket with assaults, DWI's, thefts up to $1500 and other misdemeanors.

Neither the prosecutor nor the judge wants to tie up the court over a traffic ticket. If the case ever comes up on the docket, you will be offered the option of pleading guily to a non-moving violation, such as not pulling far enough off the roadway when your ticket was written, and having the original charge dismissed.

Again if its --court of record-- a ticket lawyer cannot do anything for you that you cannot do for yourself except defer if for a few months

panZZer · #36 03-24-2011, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

I'll take some pictures to post. The really expensive part is the paint job. I also maintain a MC designation (since 1960) and the CDL has a passenger endorsement. Right, no tolerance and more expensive.

PanZZer, Your private message box is full so my last message was rejected.

message box cleared

TylerH860 · #37 03-24-2011, 02:21 PM

It is very frustrating when you're trying to maintain a safe distance from the car in front of you and a person uses that to cut in. I've driven everywhere and Texas seems to have the highest number of stupid drivers. California is the most aggressive of course. Florida people go too fast.

Skid Row Joe · #38 03-24-2011, 03:47 PM

Depending on how many lanes you have to choose from - the right lane offers the most (to me anyway) chances to be involved in a wreck. Reasons are twofold, one as the OP stated happened to him - and the other from a driver in one of the other lanes deciding to make a rash move and exit without looking. Their sudden, decidedly crazy exiting is extremely dangerous to all involved.

Two other reasons I like the fast lane are; the surface gets less traffic, resulting in less potholes, and, less road debris than the right lane.

The left lane at night is the one to avoid because of potential wrong-way driving drunken drivers. If you hang out in the left lane in the dead of night, be aware of this phenomena.

Cr from Texas · #39 03-24-2011, 04:27 PM

I've about decided to abandon the project to restore (not just make driveable) and sell the car and my supply of parts. Body shop can get it back on the road for about $2k but I've not interested in having a beater to drive. To get it to classic car restoration level, I'm looking at 6k to 10k if they do all the work.

My interest has faded quickly and I'm considering licking my wounds and buying a new car - probably Lexus gasser. Maybe a forum member wants to take it on as a "make it a daily driver" project. What's a good parts car price that would include the following installed new parts most with less than 5k miles and all less than 10k miles?

New front rotors and front calipers plus Akebono ceramic pads on all 4 wheels. New half shafts, new AC compressor and hoses; new Pierburg vacuum pump. All service records since new.

I'll take and post a picture of the wreck. Damage is above the front bumper so I expect the suspension/steering to be good. Grill, hood, left fender, oil cooler destroyed. Radiator and AC condensor bent but not leaking. I need to move it soon to avoid storage fees at the shop.

I'll inventory and sell my supply of parts later.

Skid Row Joe · #40 03-24-2011, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

I've about decided to abandon the project to restore (not just make driveable) and sell the car and my supply of parts. Body shop can get it back on the road for about $2k but I've not interested in having a beater to drive. To get it to classic car restoration level, I'm looking at 6k to 10k if they do all the work.

My interest has faded quickly and I'm considering licking my wounds and buying a new car - probably Lexus gasser. Maybe a forum member wants to take it on as a "make it a daily driver" project. What's a good parts car price that would include the following installed new parts most with less than 5k miles and all less than 10k miles?

New front rotors and front calipers plus Akebono ceramic pads on all 4 wheels. New half shafts, new AC compressor and hoses; new Pierburg vacuum pump. All service records since new.

I'll take and post a picture of the wreck. Damage is above the front bumper so I expect the suspension/steering to be good. Grill, hood, left fender, oil cooler destroyed. Radiator and AC condensor bent but not leaking. I need to move it soon to avoid storage fees at the shop.

I'll inventory and sell my supply of parts later.

Cr / Charles,
You are a very wise man. Good luck!

Codifex Maximus · #41 03-26-2011, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

I've about decided to abandon the project to restore (not just make driveable) and sell the car and my supply of parts. Body shop can get it back on the road for about $2k but I've not interested in having a beater to drive. To get it to classic car restoration level, I'm looking at 6k to 10k if they do all the work.

My interest has faded quickly and I'm considering licking my wounds and buying a new car - probably Lexus gasser. Maybe a forum member wants to take it on as a "make it a daily driver" project. What's a good parts car price that would include the following installed new parts most with less than 5k miles and all less than 10k miles?

New front rotors and front calipers plus Akebono ceramic pads on all 4 wheels. New half shafts, new AC compressor and hoses; new Pierburg vacuum pump. All service records since new.

I'll take and post a picture of the wreck. Damage is above the front bumper so I expect the suspension/steering to be good. Grill, hood, left fender, oil cooler destroyed. Radiator and AC condensor bent but not leaking. I need to move it soon to avoid storage fees at the shop.

I'll inventory and sell my supply of parts later.

Sounds like you're a conscientious guy and you know there are still quite a few nice old MB to be had. Find one and be it's caretaker. Maybe another 300D that just needs upkeep rather than restoration. You're old car could be your parts car.

New is nice to be sure but the payments ruin it for me. And gas is out of the question.

Cr from Texas · #42 03-26-2011, 01:59 PM

Thanks to all who replied. Decision has been made:I've decided to get out of the old car hobby and sell the car (or perhaps donate to charity). It's at the body shop and I'm not in a position to part it out. I need to sell and have the buyer remove soon the entire car. I'd like to see it go to a forum member to rebuild or use for parts. I need to move it next week to avoid storage fees. I have salvage companies coming to look at it next week to make an offer.Make me an offer for the entire car. At the time of the wreck, it was mechanically sound but in need of a new paint job (no rust except two spots on the edge of the sunroof, but some peeling paint down to primer from hail damage repair in the late 80's). Recently installed are: new vacuum pump, new front rotors and calipers plus ceramic Akebono pads on all four wheels. AC was running (fully charged with R12, new compressor and hoses, drier, expansion valve). Engine is strong 617 turbo. I have complete records since new as I am the original owner (215k miles actual). Car only has one front seat as I have the originals out for repair (repair complete but will sell them separate as used parts). I also have a large number of parts I had accumulated planning to do a full restoration. New still in the box (euro style depo headlights and corners, SL style grill, complete set of door front and rear windscreen rubber, 8 piece new body side trim with new red mounting buttons, complete new monovalve that is no longer being made, molded plastic blue dash cover (glue on type), new (not rebuild) set (5) monarch injectors (from Sean Watts), about 40 lbs of R12 (in three 30 lb canisters), good supply of new gaskets for power steering pump rebuild, oil filters, fuel filters, etc.). In addition to the above new items, I have a set of 4 bundts in premium condition mounted with Michelin tires with about 90% tread, repaired pair of front seats in blue MB tex, extra set of blue carpets, extra climate control modules, extra 240 style dash clock, extra sets of console of wood to be refinished including the two drink holder for the console. Trim pieces, etc. Plan to sell all.

Cr from Texas · #43 03-27-2011, 07:04 PM

Pictures of the damage:

alabbasi · #44 03-27-2011, 07:12 PM

That's a love tap.You can find most of the parts to repair in the local pick'n'pull for probably less then $300.

Cr from Texas · #45 03-27-2011, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alabbasi

That's a love tap.You can find most of the parts to repair in the local pick'n'pull for probably less then $300.

Maybe to some but I'm not into body work. If I made it driveable, I would want to go all out and add a first class paint job. I've put the car up for sale in the classified section: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts-post2688113.html?posted=1#post2688113

$500 to me and your $300, you can have a one owner all repair documented, 215k mile car. I'm getting out of the old car hobby and buying new.