I probably lurk on this forum too much. Been reading many threads lately about ignition switch malfunctionings so....Wondering if a good pre-emptive move to lube with graphite spray. I have NEVER had even an inkling of a problem with this so is it better to leave it alone and do the "if it aint broke dont mess with it" routine on my 25 year old 300SD.

My locksmith says not to use graphite.

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Charles
1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html

I'm big on clean, not lubed.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

001 989 26 51 10

1.Graphite BAD for MB "Locks"! They have "Leaves" and not "Tumblers"
2.Use ONLY Mercedes provided Steel Keys!

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Graphite is abrasive... not good for locks....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I concur with John after my recent experiences with a failed locking bolt. Removing the ignition cylinder once every 25 years, flushing with wd-40 and then cleaning with brake cleaner and rinsing in soapy water made it turn easier. Getting a new MB key is also probably a good practice after 25 yrs.
The leaves in the lock are brass. I read somewhere that brass leaves were self-lubricating. Not sure exactly what that means.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Certain metals have lubricity when running against each other. Many times you will find a steel shaft in a brass cylinder as a bearing for non-critical, cost-sensitive applications where the shaft turns intermittently.

Kurt

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- '79 240D - engine swap complete! Engine broken in! 28-31 mpg! Lovin' the ride!
- '86 190D (W201-126) - 2.5 NA engine, 5 speed, cloth interior, manual climate controls, 33-34 mpg (sold to forum member).

I've used a "wave-a-wand" on the "SOAP" cycle without it spraying full-force...just leaving the handle "un-squeezed" and letting the "trickle spray" flood/rinse the locks' keyway to remove gunk and grime...then, when the key is inserted and it seems to slide in/out with little effort, I do a thorough rinse and when I'm out of the car-wash, I'll take some "TRI-FLOW" spray and shoot a little into every lock...work the key (By then, it should be coming out of the keyway with little, to no, dirt/gray in the carrier of the "Tri-Flow.") back and forth and add a little more "Tri-Flow" each time. Once in the Spring should last most of the summer, then in the Fall and about twice during the Winter.

And, a little trick I picked up a few years back...I always have a few "coffee-stirrers" (the tiny straws) with me or in the jacket pocket. IF you should run into a "stubborn" keyway due to moisture (from any source) in said location, I found that by inserting the stirrer in the keyway and ever so lightly blowing through the straw/stirrer, you'll melt the offending moisture just long enough to allow you to insert your key and unlock your door. I had to do that w/my S-10 this past evening following a wave-a-wand session this past afternoon.

It certainly beats getting your lips stuck to your door handle.

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M. G. Burg
'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K
.'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K
..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K
...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K
....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K
.....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K
......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp
.......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125
.
“I didn’t really say everything I said.”
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ Yogi Berra ~

Don't lube just replace every 20 years.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Mine too.

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83 SD

84 CD

Dontcha just hate those frequent maintenance issues?

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Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

I think Kerry is a geologist.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

my locksmith says only to use graphite?

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1977 240D turbo

As I have posted at least two times on the Forum before (this subject seems to pop up every 18 months or so):
"graphite is a locksmiths best salesman"
so says my brother, a retired locksmith. He has seen dozens of lock tumblers fouled up by graphite. TriFlow is the only thing he used as a lube

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!