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#1
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Hood of 126 Chassis is stuck 1/2 open 1/2 closed!
I went to check my fuses and left the box cover off of the box next to the fuse box (it became detached before I bought my '82 300SD)
I needed to run inside (I have my car on the street in NY, bold, I know) and closed the hood without thinking about the fuse box cover. The passenger side latch is closed completely. The driver's side is not, but can be pushed down into the safety latch, but cannot close all the way (maybe the fuse box top out of place is causing this?) I tried to pull the manual hood release lever inside the car, no luck, the passenger side latch didn't pop up to the safety latch position. I eventually broke the manual lever off of its housing pulling, but there is still tension when I pull. I tried to use a screwdriver at the passenger side latch, where the pull cable attaches, and it wouldn't release the latch into the safety position. Does anyone have any info on what may be happening? I got some advice to have someone sit on the hood, to try and force the passenger side into closed position, and to pull on the lever (that I now have clamped between a pair of vice grips) until I hear it release. Anyone think this'll work? What will. As an aside, my car cannot start right now unless I access the hood and bridge a pair of wires on the passenger side, due to a broken neutral safety switch, a whole other can of worms, but, I'd like to avoid being towed 6 blocks to my mechanic just to have him pop the thing open, if I can) thanks, digman |
#2
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I answered my own question.
I had someone sit on the hood, and I pulled really hard on the manual lever at the driver's seat. That released the hood partially into the safety position. I manually pulled the hood (I pulled the actual metal part of the hood just above the release) and it popped into the safety position, and then I manually released the hood to open it and move my fuse box top back in place. Closed the hood, popped it again (had to pull up on it to get it all the way into safety position) and opened it. Probably need some new grease in there, as the lever wire pulls fine. Hope this helps someone else in a jam of a similar sort. |
#3
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I am sure glad you found an answer..
I was about to suggest that half your car hit a Einstein-Rosen Black Hole Bridge... and the other did not... That would also explain what happened... but harder to fix than what you did..You would have to hire a Borg... not a pleasant situation.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#4
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I'd just count myself lucky there wasn't a fuse box lid shaped indention in the hood now. Ever seen a hood that got slammed on a large wrench? I've never done it but I've seen it... it hurts to look at. Sort of like when Wile E Coyote reshapes a steel wall into his own image...
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#5
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I was definitely lucky that there was no damage done, but, ever since that happened, when I use the manual release, I still have to pull on the side of the hood that was stuck to get it into the safety position. I guess a clean and some new grease could help...
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