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#76
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Since this thread started, I've driven my 300D from NC to CO to NC and back to CO again with a small tool box, some spare filters, and a cell phone (almost 5000 miles). Just get it checked out and drive it.
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#77
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... yeah, your 617 equipped, FRESHLY REBUILT 300D... not quite the same thing as this guy's car...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#78
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I doubt in any noticeable way. I personally saw next to none in my 300D with a bike and cargo carrier on the roof
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#79
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Ok, we know the route..
and the time period... shouldn't we be building a list of member's numbers near I - 80 ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#80
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That's quite a list! I took a car with about 250K on the odo on a spring ski trip from CT to CO and back and did no pre trip maintenance, did not bring any supplies and only minimal tools- screwdrivers, a few wrenches and a DVM. The car always started and ran well and I had a good hunch it will make it. Well, my hunch was wrong , on the return trip in NM the battery light started flickering and the DVM confirmed alternator not charging. I made it to an Autozone an hour away on a Sunday and was told 3 days to get a voltage regulator or an alternator. Not wanting to wait, I borrowed their tools, pulled the regulator, stretched the springs on the brushes, put everthing back and it charges! I made it home with no further incident. In retrospect, I should have inspected the brushes before I left eh?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#81
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Funola , Thanks for that story.... seems like a good and more realistic reply to what babymog described as if parts are available at a touch of technology all across the country....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#82
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When it had the old engine I drove it to NY several times within a month; when it broke down in OH I got a rental car and lost about 2 hours of time. Driving any car can be expensive if it breaks.
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#83
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I vote for getting it running properly before changing the oil, the starting procedure could add a lot of fuel to the oil if it doesn't go well.
Add some zip-ties and duct tape, even a wire coat-hanger, never know what the road can throw at you (especially at night). Some spares are only for convenience since your phone can find an autozone or walmart pretty quickly (bulbs etc.). Fuses are helpful also, and if you can I'd suggest carrying a meter of fuel-return hose and a way to cut a fuel hard-line if one fails (re-route it to the return flow). Speed? The slower the better really. My 190D turbo was basically the same setup but smaller, and got MUCH better mileage on 2-lane 55mph roads than on the constant-speed freeway at 72mph. Air drag increase is logrithmic with speed increase, so speed is the largest influence on fuel consumption. Safety is also a concern though, and driving significantly slower than the flow of traffic is not a safe option (ref: 80th percentile rule / NHTSA). The bike on top is why I bought my TE back in '91. I carried my bikes on my Yak rack for years, but could really see it in my fuel mileage (the quattro), wanted to be able to carry it inside. 70mph+ is a lot of air to shove over a bunch of tubes on the roof (even my Yak rack was noticable empty). I am about 10minutes from I-80/I-90 and 5minutes from the Ohio/Indiana line if you run into trouble. If I'm here and you need help let me know.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#84
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he just has to get there, plus, if it was a 617 or 616 you could have kept driving as long as you never shut the car off. Who needs lights?
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#85
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Then you stop at wal-mart and buy a jumper box, or a battery charger that you can plug in at your hotel overnight. I've done the brush-spring stretch thing also, Christmas Eve in a blizzard when the battery died, State Trooper bumper-pushed my 4-year-old 300TE 4matic into a fire station garage, back on the road in an hour. $74,000 and it stranded me before it was 4years old so don't think that driving a newer car will make your trip flawless.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#86
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Quote:
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#87
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"Mother nature sides with the hidden flaw".
No matter how many tools and parts you carry, no matter how prepared you feel you are, there is always a possibility of something else failing. Statistically a new car would be a better bet, but there is still a significant possibility of catastrophic failure. When we design parts of new cars, we do several types of mathematical and theoretical analysis and assign a value to the types and statistical probability of each failure, there are no zeros.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#88
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I know the list is long but I'm bringing as much of my stuff as I can to Cali. All my fishing gear, mountain bike, camping gear and r/c heli's, cloths, etc.
Can I use my extractor to pull any water that might have gotten into the oil from the top? Then warm her up and suck the rest of the old oil out. Or should I just suck it all out and put fresh oil in before I start?
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1994 Toyotal Landcruiser 220k (Sold) 1987 300TDT 278K My Addiction (Going Going Gon...) 2001 Volvo V70 (New Ride) |
#89
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That is an amazing brother you have if he is saving up grease for your. It's getting warmer, and your better off picking up your car and driving it do to SF.
I smell a conversion kit in your future. Before you drive it out, I would switch out all the fluids you can. Even the power steering oil too. Do some work on the car so you don't have to do the work on the road. Have fun, and be safe.
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Professional greasecar installer Austin TX 98 Jetta TDI with grease car kit + veg-therm (totaled) 87 MB 300SDL running on B99 / greasecar kit + 30 fphe www.austingreaseguys.com |
#90
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With the fun gear you are taking ... seems like you are not TOO worried about the car making it..
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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