Won't start, Verify my plan of attack - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

billhard · #1 03-30-2011, 09:08 PM

I brought home a new w115 240D, see post herehttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=296472

I have no idea when the motor last ran but PO bent the drive shaft apparently trying to compression start the car on a tow dolly.

Here is what I've done so far:

new fuel filters
glow pulgs wired wrong, fixed glowing now
primer pump leaks like hell, replaced with new bosch stlye
hooked up temp fuel source
loosened injector lines at injectors and turn motor to bleed air. Fuel seeped out of each, retightened
good charge on battery
removed air filter line to be certain no air restriction

She will glow and crank but not fire. I notice vapor being pushed out of the intake side of the motor, should this be happening?

I plan to adjust valves next does that seem like the next logical step?

Since I will have the valve cover off, can tell me how to check if the cam is timed correctly to the motor?

leathermang · #2 03-30-2011, 09:14 PM

To me adjusting the valves should have happened before you turned the engine over..
and the first time the engine got turned over ( two revs ) would be by hand ( using the front crank nut NOT the power steering nut ) to make sure there was no interference which might bend a valve or hurt a piston top...
so, yes, adjust the valves soon...

barry123400 · #3 03-30-2011, 09:23 PM

Cars piston rings may have stuck from sitting. Do a compression test or try a tow start. Not unusual.

I actually spend little time on any non starting engine that is both of unknown history wise and has sat around. Once I have established runnable compression then I pursue things.

Skippy · #4 03-30-2011, 09:32 PM

Valve adjust is never a bad idea if you don't know when it was done last. Search "chain stretch" and you'll probably find a thread with timing verification. Also, you might try bleeding the injectors again. Sometimes you think you have all the air out when you really don't.

billhard · #5 03-30-2011, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billhard

Since I will have the valve cover off, can tell me how to check if the cam is timed correctly to the motor?

Never mind this, leathermang pointed me in the right direction. This idea occurred to me while typing the original post, unfortunately pee brain was set on type not search at that moment.

leathermang · #6 03-30-2011, 11:38 PM

It is a lot more fun to ask for and then interact with whomever is online at the time..
and even if you are willing to search... sometimes help is needed with key words to narrow the number of returns on the search function...
but the threads in the archives were made over time.. so lots of people were able to see and add, argue, refine, etc.... so they are really excellent reference...

billhard · #7 04-14-2011, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billhard

Here is what I've done so far:

new fuel filters
glow pulgs wired wrong, fixed glowing now
primer pump leaks like hell, replaced with new bosch stlye
hooked up temp fuel source
loosened injector lines at injectors and turn motor to bleed air. Fuel seeped out of each, retightened
good charge on battery
removed air filter line to be certain no air restriction

More that has been done:

Compression checked and even though it was a cold test it has compression
Cam Shaft timing checked
IP timing set
Valves adjusted
Battery checked at napa found to be good and fully charged
Battery terminals cleaned and tight
Fuel lines tight and fuel is getting to injectors

I had it running for about 20 seconds yesterday, but idle control was set to low and it died when I tried to move from drivers seat to front of car. Now it seem the starter isn't turning the motor over fast enough to get it lit again. Here is a video of me trying to start, what do you think of starter speed?

79Mercy · #8 04-14-2011, 09:25 PM

Bill, your youtube video is set to private, we cant see it.

billhard · #9 04-14-2011, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79Mercy

Bill, your youtube video is set to private, we cant see it.

Sorry fixed that

Skippy · #10 04-14-2011, 11:52 PM

Cranking speed is way low. Are you doing something to keep the battery charged between starting attempts? Also, I noticed the accelerator linkage moving during cranking. Was that you doing that? My 300D starts under all conditions with no accelerator input. My 240D (with old injectors and loop plugs) often started better with the pedal floored.

billhard · #11 04-15-2011, 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skippy

Cranking speed is way low. Are you doing something to keep the battery charged between starting attempts

Yes charging regularly and the video shows a 90% battery at least.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skippy

Also, I noticed the accelerator linkage moving during cranking. Was that you doing that?

Yes that's me, I have tried at idle, pumping and wide open no luck

79Mercy · #12 04-15-2011, 04:26 PM

That is to slow to fire up especially when you have minimal compression. You might want to swap the starter for a better one, use a turbodiesel starter, has a bit more cranking power.

Zacharias · #13 04-15-2011, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billhard

Yes that's me, I have tried at idle, pumping and wide open no luck

Have you tried someone working the primer pump like mad, while you turn it over?

Has made a huge difference for me on several similar occasions....

billhard · #14 04-15-2011, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79Mercy

That is to slow to fire up especially when you have minimal compression. You might want to swap the starter for a better one, use a turbodiesel starter, has a bit more cranking power.

I started looking at doing that today. there is no mention of the job that I can find in the FSM so I went outside to eyeball it. Holy crap it looks to me like you have to remove the front engine mount, ok not bad but then you have to pull off the AC mounting bracket. That looks like an act of congress!