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  #1  
Old 03-31-2011, 11:30 PM
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603.xxx sdl Crank bolt tuff to losen?

I see that it is probably torqued down to 250. Have a 3 ft breaker bar with 1/2" drive socket. I've read it can be done with this set up + socket, and extention+socket placed on a torque converter bolt to stop the spin.

Any body had any luck with this kind of set up? Or, is an impact wrench needed + the factory tool for holding the flywheel starter ring gear.

Just want to replace the leaky front main seal tonight while I have the fan & radiator off. Also the H. Balancer is the woodruff key set up so I won't have to worry about the "2 pin" re-alignment challenge.

Thanks

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  #2  
Old 04-01-2011, 12:15 AM
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Why not buy the crankshaft locking tool for $25 to prevent shearing off any teeth from your flexplate or damaging something else in there?
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  #3  
Old 04-01-2011, 01:39 AM
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Crank shaft locking tool? $25 no problem. Where do I find one? Is that a MB Dealer item?

That would be great but my question is how can I pull that thing tonight with what I have in had. Actually don't have anything to use on the ring gear at the moment. Just thinking of putting socket on a T. Converter bolt head as I have read done before.

I'm staring at it, ready to go. Would like to have the car running out to Arizona in the morning. Don't want to wreck anything though.

More thoughts please!

Edit. I see you point about the flex plate...You are correct. Bad idea.
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  #4  
Old 04-01-2011, 02:07 AM
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You will need something to keep the Crank From rotating or you will not be able to torque the Bolt properly.
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  #5  
Old 04-01-2011, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robcarsonjr View Post
Crank shaft locking tool? $25 no problem. Where do I find one? Is that a MB Dealer item?

That would be great but my question is how can I pull that thing tonight with what I have in had. Actually don't have anything to use on the ring gear at the moment. Just thinking of putting socket on a T. Converter bolt head as I have read done before.

I'm staring at it, ready to go. Would like to have the car running out to Arizona in the morning. Don't want to wreck anything though.

More thoughts please!

Edit. I see you point about the flex plate...You are correct. Bad idea.


I tried to rush through a repair like this once on my '85 745i BMW, sheared off the TDC sensor on the flexplate preventing the computer from seeing crank rotation and now the car does not start.

Do as you wish, but having the proper tool makes life easy AND safe.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-Flywheel-Crankshaft-Pulley-Locking-Tool-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a6492cdf9QQitemZ250795445753QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools
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'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

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  #6  
Old 04-01-2011, 02:33 AM
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The Retaining Lock Shown in the manual is 601589024000. This is the one that goes through the Bell Housing from below and is reatained by 2 M6x85 Screws. The selling price listed on one of the sites for the real Mercedes one is $119 each.

(The above replaced the 901589024000 Detent that went into the hole where the Starter would go and locked the Flywheel.)

I know you were already given one eBay site. However, if you want to see some others on eBay search= Mercedes Flywheel Lock.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 04-01-2011 at 02:55 AM.
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  #7  
Old 04-01-2011, 05:27 AM
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I have locked a small block chevy by putting rope in the cylinder thru the spark plug hole. May work in this case if you can pull a pre combustion chamber.
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  #8  
Old 04-01-2011, 10:31 AM
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Flywheel Lock it is!

Just ordered a flywheel lock tool. The job should be done right and will just have to wait. A little leaked oil is cheap...potential damage $$$ not worth the risk.

Thanks for the experienced advice. Exactly what I was looking for!
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  #9  
Old 04-01-2011, 11:50 AM
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I just did this:

As suggested from Roy here at Peachparts

put the 27mm deep socket attached to a LONG breaker bar on the crank bolt.

place the breaker bar so it "rest" on the pass. side frame rail.

hit the starter, but do NOT start the car

the bolt will now be loose.

you will need something to hold the motor when you re-tighten.

a 13mm deep socket with 6inch extension attached to one of the flywheel bolts works well. the flywheel bolts are exposed by turning the motor and looking into the forward facing hole in the bellhousing.
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  #10  
Old 04-01-2011, 12:53 PM
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It worked fine for me, I never was concerned about damage during the job and I am a stickler for not damaging things!

603 Front Crankshaft Hub and Seal Job - Pics!
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  #11  
Old 04-01-2011, 04:08 PM
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Starter method

When you say "rest" the breaker bar on the frame on the "passenger side" do you mean from under the frame. If I just lay on top it seems it would flip over to the drivers side.

Or did you mean put it on the drivers side. In that case there looks to be a lot of expensive hardware in the area that could be a major problem if the bar bangs into something.

Let me know...thanks!
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2011, 06:21 PM
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I've used an impact, worked great without a lock tool.

To torque it, it takes enough force that I lifted the engine and engine stand off of the garage floor, you don't want your lock method to slip. I had my 95# wife hold the prybar in the teeth of the flexplate, ... don't tell anyone.
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  #13  
Old 04-03-2011, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robcarsonjr View Post
When you say "rest" the breaker bar on the frame on the "passenger side" do you mean from under the frame. If I just lay on top it seems it would flip over to the drivers side.

Or did you mean put it on the drivers side. In that case there looks to be a lot of expensive hardware in the area that could be a major problem if the bar bangs into something.

Let me know...thanks!

under the frame rail. a really long bar is needed. The bar will hit the frame rail, and there-fore not go flipping around.

and yes an impact would be great. . . if you can fit it in there, but I did not see a sensible way.

you will want to remove the following:

fan shroud and fan
acc belt
tensioner, roller
water pump pulley (not the pump, just pulley)

the rubber air inlet pipe which connects to your turbo
this comes off so you can remove the plastic "side skirt" which is held in place by two 8mm bolts

with the skirt out of the way, you now have a straight shot from the crank pulley to the frame rail.

you can use a block of wood to hold up the breaker bar against the frame rail to avoid a sudden high speed SLAP
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  #14  
Old 04-05-2011, 01:33 AM
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What about re-torque?

Ok so if I don't have a ring gear (flywheel) tool, how on earth will I torque the thing back on?
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  #15  
Old 04-05-2011, 01:51 AM
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fwiw I almost lost a pinky when torquing the flywheel on a beetle once. right tool right job

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