I have read all I can about this but the w115 240D IP gets less press than the w123.

First off I started following the FSM on IP adjustment and noticed that I could not verify the start / spot cable was adjusted correctly because the bracket which holds it in place was broken. I am wondering if this is what prevented the motor from firing in the first place. The car came with extra IP's so I salvaged a good part and now that is fixed, on to adjusting.

Second 45 degreed boxed wrench or not I cannot see how the hell I will get at the lower IP fastening nut.

Third, 24d BTDC, cam lobes look good, maybe a slightly beyond a perfect 45 but close. When i depress the pump primer I get a steady flow of fuel out the test tube so am i correct in thinking I need to retard the timing by rotating the top of pump away from the motor?

Thanks in advance. Bill

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1972 280SE 4.5

Yes you'll have to bend a 13mm wrench 45-90 degrees or you will not be able to get at that bolt, i still haven't adjusted mine cause i haven't bent a wrench yet.

Sounds like you need to retard your timing.. 1 drop per second at 24 BTDC.

Don't forget the linkage needs to be wide open while you are pumping the primer pump and the starter knob needs to be in the run position. Sounds like you already know all that though.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

I have been trying for the last 1.5 hours to get my 45 degree 13mm wrench onto the lower IP retaining nut and can't get it done! I have had many times working on motorcycles where wrench work has to be done in cramped positions blind but I have never cursed as much as I did tonight.

Is there some trick to this?

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1972 280SE 4.5

I am not sure what yours looks like. On my year and model what I did was remove the 2 Bolts that Bolt the other end of the Bracket to the Engine Block (I could see them from under the car).
When you advance the timing the top of the Fuel Injection Pump turns towards the Engine while the Bottom (with the Bracket) will rotate away from the Engine.
When I was done timing I used something as a Punch and gently tapped the bracket back against the Block and installed the 2 Bolts.

Again on my year and model they say you can get at the Single Bolt by removing the Oil Cooler Tubing. I do not know how much other stuff must be loosened or removed to get the Oil Tubing off.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I finally dug into this deep enough to loosen the lower IP flange fastening nut, but I can not rotate the top of the IP any further away from the motor to retard the timing. I am thinking this thing might be at the end of it's adjustment space requiring removal and adjusting it one spline over. Take A look at these pictures it seem to be tilted quite a bit already.

Attached Thumbnails

         

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1972 280SE 4.5

You are not going to be able to rotate the IP with out removing the Fuel Injection Lines.
It might see like you can just loosen one side but as long as the Cone Ends of the Injection Lines fit into the Injectors or the IP it is going to be harder to turn than if the lines were completely removed.

You are also going to have to be very understanding.
Rotating the IP in the retarded timing direction is going to get you to End Injection. It is also going to drip at a certain point of end injection.
So you need to watch closely the sequance of events.

When you are coming up on begin of Injection you will get a stream of Fuel and it will taper down to drips.
When you reach the end of Injection you will go from no fuel to drips to a stream of Fuel.
And, you are going to have trouble figuring out any of it unless in rotate the IP extremely slowly.
While all of the above is going on you need to keep the Fuel Pressure with the Hand Primer as even as possible.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have the Injection lines removed from the injectors, cone end no longer seated in the injectors, but I can remove them entirely if it will make a difference.

Hmmmmm So whilst continually pumping the primer pump one rotates the IP to a point lying between no fuel coming out, and a stream of fuel coming out where i get a steady 1 drip per second. Does this vary as I press the primer pump repeatedly or stay steady at drip drip point?

One more thing, I looked at valve train timing by aligning the engine assembly marks and reading off balancer. I know this isn't the optimal method but I just shooting for running right now, I will refine the state of tune later. Anyway when cam marks are aligned I see 4* BTDC. IP timing calls for 24* BTDC, should I therefore time IP to 28* BTDC (24* + 4*)?

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1972 280SE 4.5

You might have to pull the pump and re-install it on different teeth..

Has the IP been tampered with in the part, typically you shouldnt have to take it off unless someone re-installed it improperly.

How is the timing chain stretch on the car?

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

As far as pumping the Hand Primer see if you can find someone else to do the pumping for you the fist time you do the timing. That way the pressure can be kept even and you can concentrate on rotating the IP and counting drips.

If when the Camshaft Gear and Camshaft Bearing Tower marks are properly lined up you are getting 4 degrees Before Top Dead Center (Top Dead Center is Zero Degrees) you either are not lining up the marks correctly, rotating the Engine the wrong direction or there is something else wrong.

When the Engine was new the CAmshaft Timing was set at Zero Degrees (TDC).

With Timing Chain Stretch and Wear on the Timing Gears what you would expect is when the Camshaft Timing marks are properly aligned is to have x amount of degrees After Top Dead Center.

In the Pic on the left side the Camshaft Timing marks are lined up properly.
On ther Right side of the pic you see that I am showing about 2-1/2 degrees After Top Dead Center. My Camshaft Timing is 2-1/2 degrees late.

In the 2nd pic is what I used to rotate the IP. If you want you can put some Tape on the Jaws. I did not grab the handles and rotate it. I squeezed the jaws together with one hand and just tapped on the handle to move it in tiny bits at a time with my free hand.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I forgot something.

When you re-time the Fuel Injection Pump to the proper Crankshaft Damper mark (24 Degrees BTDC) that is all you need to do to compensate for the stretch or wear in the Timing Chain/Gears.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the reply. Yes I meant after top dead center just screwed up relaying it.

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1972 280SE 4.5

If you feel you linded up the marks well when you did the Camshaft Timing Check there is an off set Woodruff Key to compensate for that 4 degrees after TDC Timing. But, you can decide if you want to do that or not later.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The FSM specifically forbids the use of the CAM mark for anything except INITIAL build of the engine...
so if you are using it for anything else.... you are using something which is not accurate enough to rely on. This has been said many times in the archives...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Ok having mended my lazy ways I checked cam timing per FSM with a dial gauge 3 times and got 15.5* - 16* each time. The FSM calls for 11.5* on new chains and 13.5* on chains over 20,000km, which I am reasonably sure mine is. So do I want to put in a 4* offset key and go to back 11.5*? Because it seems to me like the FSM is indicating if I were to adjust 13.5* is what I would adjust to. I pulled the front nut off the cam shaft to check if PO had already installed an offset, none appears to be present.

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1972 280SE 4.5

You 2mm Method degrees compared well with you Camshaft Alignment method.
You choice to put the Off set key in or not.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel