Rookie owner of 91 300d 2.5d with ??
 

Hi,All
Which brand of struts are recommed for this type of car, front/rear?
Are they easy to replaced?
Cabin filter easy replacement?
thanks

Replacing the cabin filter is easy, you just realize that there isn't one and bam it's done. They were introduced in 94.

Bilstein all the way around.

Here the part#1248300118 for 2 set of cabin filters in the blower case.

124's were around in 94, hence the partnumber... the airbox and fan are slightly different. I was eying a set at the junkyard but figured if the fan doesn't fit then the filters won't fit either. Didn't actually try though.

As for the procedure, you pull the wiper motor to get to it.

Blower Motor
 

WOULD have to "Pull" Air through the Filters.
'Given that the Blower Motors for Filter Equipped and Non-Filter Equipped MB s
of this Chassis are DIFFERENT...
A case could be made that the Chassis without
Filters as Standard Equipment has a slightly weaker Blower Motor.

The Blowers on these Chassis are a Weak Point from the Factory.
(Sub-Standard Bushing instead of Bearings,Wanky semi-electronic regulator,
Barely acceptable wiring when new...That contributes to Heat/Resistance
Stress as the Chassis ages.)

The "Shocks" ARE the Limit for the Coil Springs.
To Change them you'll have to remove the springs with the proper TOOL.


by George Murphy

Here's how I did my old '86 300E:

I strongly advise that you obtain the MB 124 Chassis Manual - call 800-367-6372 to order . . .

The MB manual assumes you will be removing the steering knuckle for other work, hence the spring compressor.

Here's how I did my 300E:
Jack up the left (or right) front of the car at the factory jack support just behind the front wheel until the wheel is off the ground. Block up the front end by placing a jack stand or similar support under the lower control arm so it is supported as it would be with the car sitting on its wheels. (VERY IMPORTANT) Allow the weight of the car to rest on the stand. Remove the wheel - check that the car is securely supported as it would be with the wheel on the ground. This assures that the spring is retained as it is when the car is sitting normally on its wheels.

Directions for strut change
Undo the upper strut mount bolt - use a counterhold on the shaft with a metric hex wrench.. Remove the three lower strut mount bolts. Support the steering knuckle on a block of wood so it does not swing downward and pull on the brake hose. Remove the strut from the car.

Transfer the buffers and dust shield to the new strut. Replace the upper rubber mounts if they appear worn or badly cracked. (No torque given) Install the upper new strut into the upper bushing - do not tighten yet. Make sure mating surfaces in the steering knuckle are clean. Install all three lower bolts, then torque the two lower ones first to 110 Nm Then torque upper bolt at lower end to 110Nm. Toque upper mount to 60 Nm but use a counterhold on the shaft with a metric hex. Replace the wheel, jack up the car and remove stand, lower car onto the wheel . . .

Repeat for other side

Have front end aligned by a knowledgeable MB front end alignment mechanic - bring your own alignment specs with you as most specs supplied with wheel alignment equipment is usually wrong . . .

I've changed shocks all the way around on mine without having to do anything with the springs.

Yep, you dont need the spring compressor. When that car is running right you will love it.

using the proper tools is the safest method to change the struts, HOWEVER! it can be done as described in nice detail above.
use caution, and be safe.