How bad did I screw up - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

polarisrmk · #16 04-09-2011, 07:43 PM

I say never turn the engine backwards..... Unless you need to go the other way.

I have turned many many many engines backward up to a 1/4 turn and never had a problem. Though it is not recommended, don't think that the mechanic you take your car to hasn't done it to your engine already. Sometimes people on this forum get so uptight about the littlest things.

81 Olga · #17 04-09-2011, 08:10 PM

Yeah I had no idea not to use the power steering pulley. I guess there is the perfect example to double check. Could that cause a problem by itself? Just tried to start the car with the glow plug light not working and it would not start. Its alittle cold out side 50 deg. so I guess the glow plugs are not working hence the no start. The glow plugs all looked normal, fuses are all good instrament cluster bulb good, I guess the last thing would be the preglow relay itself? I checked the wire that powers the preglow light in the cluster and when I turn the ignition on my test light would light for about 1 sec. then go out.

polarisrmk · #18 04-09-2011, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 81 Olga

Yeah I had no idea not to use the power steering pulley. I guess there is the perfect example to double check. Could that cause a problem by itself? Just tried to start the car with the glow plug light not working and it would not start. Its alittle cold out side 50 deg. so I guess the glow plugs are not working hence the no start. The glow plugs all looked normal, fuses are all good instrament cluster bulb good, I guess the last thing would be the preglow relay itself? I checked the wire that powers the preglow light in the cluster and when I turn the ignition on my test light would light for about 1 sec. then go out.

did you check the fuse strip in the gp relay? I think someone already mentioned this. forget the light for now. you need to get under the hood and start checking for power to the relay and coming out of the relay.

81 Olga · #19 04-09-2011, 09:25 PM

I just checked the power at each glow plug with a test light. The test light would light up and stay on for maybe 30 sec. I would then hear at click from the glow plug relay and the test light would go out. I think that is how the relay should work but the glow plugs and area around them did not seem to get warm. Bad glow plugs?

engatwork · #20 04-09-2011, 09:38 PM

Quote:

area around them did not seem to get warm

You won't be able to feel the heat from the gp's when they are in the head.

zeke · #21 04-10-2011, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

The power steering pump pulley is a tapered shaft..... The Factory Shop Manual specifically forbids using it to turn the engine. There are stories in the archives about this.. putting excess pressure on it makes it an interference fit...

I Told You this is supposed to be done by using the crank nut...
If you do not listen people will not be motivated to explain things to you.

The problem I have with this is that I still haven't found a wrench/socket combination that allows me to grab the nut with enough clearance between the fan/rad to turn it by the crankshaft. Removing the fan is sooooo annoying, that I really don't want to get into that just to do a valve adjustment.

I have even tried to spin it from below, but this becomes silly - little spin then poop back up top to see where the lobe is - back down for a little spin - back up...ooops too far - start over again down up down up....

What do y'all use to spin the engine from the proper place?

(btw, I do appreciate the problems with spinning it by the PS pump....seems like a bad idea in general).

leathermang · #22 04-10-2011, 02:16 PM

Zeke,
Perhaps you are thinking that something you can put together standing up.. can be put into that space once you get down on the ground..
This has not been my experience... I have to put on the socket, then the extension ( I think ) then add the ratchet or breaker bar to that... long ratchet handle or cheater bar certainly better than breaker bar....
I am sure the fan does not have to be removed if the ' proper' sizes of tools which fit together are found...
I think after getting it ON...
you can turn it from the top.. but may need to have something for the handle to rest on underneath so it does not point straight down when you let go of it..

barry123400 · #23 04-10-2011, 04:10 PM

One other thought. Did you reveiw the procceedure of adjusting the valves? If you have not adjusted other valves before perhaps something was done improperly. If the car would start before you adjusted the valves I would read about the proccedure in the archives. Thats if there is any doubt in your mind.

polarisrmk · #24 04-10-2011, 05:12 PM

move the fan shroud.... very simple to get a ratchet on the crank once its out of the way. I just undo the fan shroud and push the top toward the engine and then put the socket an extension between two of the fan blades.

81 Olga · #25 04-12-2011, 01:08 AM

Just to finish the story, found out I had 4 out of 5 glow plugs go bad all at once hence not start. Luckly motor did not skip time or anything and runs great. I know now not to spin the motor by the P/S pulley and won't but what can happen damage wise.

leathermang · #26 04-12-2011, 02:08 AM

Since it is a taper fit... putting too much pressure on it can bend, break ,spread it or place it out of proper lineup for your belts... or cause you extra hassle when you need to take it off... Most of these things we warn against are not only in the FSM...but someone on the forum has done it and suffered the consequences...

From about 2003...

240D Engine problems

Kerry, the problem comes if you ever need to take off that pulley on the power steering pump...TCane and I heated and cooled his three times with oxy-acet before it grudingly came off... the PO had used it to turn the engine also...
There is a reason the books say use the crank bolt...
Bumper, Don't worry about it... they both start with a " C "

First, I do not know how people can live without an oxygen acetylene rig.... LOL.....
In case you want to take exhaust stuff in the future.... ( old Jaguars did this )... you can use copper bolts and brass or copper washers to put them together... very different from steel after a few years of heating and cooling.... Even a copper nut on a steel stud is better than steel on steel when it comes to exhausts....
TCane was here yesterday to do the FAQ page on setting valves...

and brought with him a pulley stuck on a power steering pump... he had really struggled with it... So we got out the oxy acet rig and 30 seconds three times with a big welding tip ( not a heating rose ) and splashing water on it twice and it came right off like it should have in the first place... Physics ! Can't live without it.... LOL

engatwork · #27 04-12-2011, 08:38 AM

Quote:

I have even tried to spin it from below, but this becomes silly - little spin then poop back up top to see where the lobe is - back down for a little spin - back up...ooops too far - start over again down up down up....

Use a paintstick to put a mark on the bottom of the crankshaft pulley when the engine is at #1TDC

.

leathermang · #28 04-12-2011, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

Use a paintstick to put a mark on the bottom of the crankshaft pulley when the engine is at #1TDC

.

New people need to remember that that paint mark will be at the bottom TWICE ... once for what you are marking and once half way in the cycle getting back to the correct place...
because four stroke cycles involve 720 degrees of rotation to complete...