A/C recommendations for the MB vehicles - Page 16

leathermang · #**226** 10-26-2011, 01:19 PM

It probably makes no difference.....but if you wanted to cover some other bases... you might put 2 oz into each of the high and low side schroeder valves plus nitrogen...

dieseldan44 · #**227** 10-27-2011, 12:11 AM

Thanks guys!

So i am vac'ing/leak testing/recharging a forum members 134a system tomorrow with my new gear.

Its going to be in 40's tomorrow here. How the heck will i know if anything is working right, other than gauge readings? Do I blow hairdryers into the air intakes ??

leathermang · #**228** 10-27-2011, 01:11 AM

You have waited too late in the year to fix your AC now....
LOL
Really , you need some ambient heat to do the ' function test ' MB calls for..

I can stall you for a short period by naming a tool which you need to actually follow the MB order of procedure ...which you do not have yet.... if you want me to...

leathermang · #**229** 10-27-2011, 01:14 AM

MB calls for pressure testing THEN putting the oil into the system with a tool which would do a good job of inserting liquid into medical drip lines... they call for testing for leaks and then inserting refrigerant THEN putting the measured amount of oil in.... and it seems that means it only goes into one location... different from what we have been suggestion based on many sources....

vstech · #**230** 10-27-2011, 04:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Thanks, but I don't think I have any recourse... it was $35 chance off Ebay.... the red light does work....and since it is battery powered I am going to use my ' new' $35 CL oscilloscope to play with its insides....

what I mean is the sniffer elements in the end of the tool have a shelf life. and they are a cheap replacement like batteries.
you can order new ones from the tool manufacturer and have a good working tool again.

leathermang · #**231** 10-27-2011, 12:44 PM

Even without being used/abused they ' expire' ? Did not know that.. have three heads with unit... checked two of them..but could just be that old ... I feel like I ought to invest in one I can check when I buy it .. meaning CL and local ... rather than add to the cost of this one with no way to check the box part of this one... it did come with battery stuff leaking.. which I rinsed with distilled water and dried out... light does come on.... if I could find out what it is supposed to be providing to the metal arm I would check that out...there are disadvantages of being (too) cheap sometimes...

dieseldan44 · #**232** 10-27-2011, 01:24 PM

I just used a $35 sniffer that I bought new on Ebay this morning to pinpoint an AC leak from a compressor. It worked great and there seemed to be a contact point to get additional tips.

With other gas sniffers, I *think* their 'nose' get desensitized the more of the target chemical it sniffs. I don't think they have a 'shelf life' if not in use (and not exposed to the chemical).

leathermang · #**233** 10-27-2011, 02:20 PM

So you are suggesting more of a catalytic reactor type of decline in ability to react to the target chemical.... either way I have no background on this machine..
by " new".... new to you...or actually new ? I could splurge another $35 ....LOL

dieseldan44 · #**234** 10-27-2011, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

So you are suggesting more of a catalytic reactor type of decline in ability to react to the target chemical.... either way I have no background on this machine..
by " new".... new to you...or actually new ? I could splurge another $35 ....LOL

actually new...

Refrigerant Halogen Freon Leak Detector HVAC R134a R410a R22a Air Conditioning | eBay

now I'm not saying it will last me until the end of time, but it seems to be of general good quality and I will only use it occasionally.

leathermang · #**235** 10-27-2011, 03:03 PM

Ordered !!! Thanks for the testing/opinion....

gwwh40k · #**236** 11-11-2011, 03:19 PM

I'm a first time user and these posts have been very useful. I'm converting my '82 300SD to R134 because R12 will be impossible to get legally soon. R12 is the largest smuggled import outside of drugs and comes from Russia and other "Soviet Block Countries". Only god and Putin know what they are really sending and I don't trust the Russians.
Thanks for listening, Bill

vstech · #**237** 11-11-2011, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gwwh40k

I'm a first time user and these posts have been very useful. I'm converting my '82 300SD to R134 because R12 will be impossible to get legally soon. R12 is the largest smuggled import outside of drugs and comes from Russia and other "Soviet Block Countries". Only god and Putin know what they are really sending and I don't trust the Russians.
Thanks for listening, Bill

which is why you should stock up on R12... although, in indiana, I suppose you can get by with lackluster performance from R134... be certain you follow ALL steps to get maximum performance from 134.

compu_85 · #**238** 03-17-2012, 02:32 PM

Yesterday I did a small modification to my car's Aux Fan circuit.

The box with the knob mounted to the ABS pump bracket is a temperature switch. It's designed for retrofitting electric radiator fans in place of a belt driven one. Here's where I got it: Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 31147 Adjustable Temperature Control Unit: Automotive

I connected the switch into the stock high pressure switch circuit. The sensor bulb is zip tied to the high side line coming out of the receiver dryer. I put a piece of pipe insulation over it to shield it from under-hood temperatures. I put the dial for the fan switch on its lowest setting (which according to the manual is 180*F).

The switch works well, the fans cycle on and off at idle when the system is under high load. This, along with a new fan and clutch has my 134A converted W126 blowing high 40*s at idle on an 80* day. If I ever decided to make changes the whole thing is easy to undo and no changes were made to the car's wiring.

I've also toyed with the idea of using this switch to kick on the 1st speed of the fans (as it does now) and connect the high pressure switch up to the 2nd speed. I have a 110A alternator now, so it won't drain the battery as I sit in traffic.

Thanks,

-Jason

SpecialDelivery · #**239** 03-18-2012, 05:10 AM

That is awesome! I live in FL and about to under take the renovation of my AC system. Once its up and running I may have to revisit your mod.

and check on my alternator

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85

Yesterday I did a small modification to my car's Aux Fan circuit.

The box with the knob mounted to the ABS pump bracket is a temperature switch. It's designed for retrofitting electric radiator fans in place of a belt driven one. Here's where I got it: Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 31147 Adjustable Temperature Control Unit: Automotive

I connected the switch into the stock high pressure switch circuit. The sensor bulb is zip tied to the high side line coming out of the receiver dryer. I put a piece of pipe insulation over it to shield it from under-hood temperatures. I put the dial for the fan switch on its lowest setting (which according to the manual is 180*F).

The switch works well, the fans cycle on and off at idle when the system is under high load. This, along with a new fan and clutch has my 134A converted W126 blowing high 40*s at idle on an 80* day. If I ever decided to make changes the whole thing is easy to undo and no changes were made to the car's wiring.

I've also toyed with the idea of using this switch to kick on the 1st speed of the fans (as it does now) and connect the high pressure switch up to the 2nd speed. I have a 110A alternator now, so it won't drain the battery as I sit in traffic.

Thanks,

-Jason