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  #46  
Old 04-22-2011, 07:31 PM
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Dry enough to paint isn't dry enough for AC work.

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  #47  
Old 04-23-2011, 02:18 AM
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To change to a VOV you would be changing your entire system ... not fixing your system by any stretch of the imagination.... that is simply a totally different method of operation and all the things that go along with it ... electronics... would be different...
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  #48  
Old 04-23-2011, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by amosfella View Post
Scratch oil as the problem... Too much liquid refrigerant was put in... Do I just vacuum the system down far as I can, and refill??
the problem is you do not know how much oil is in the system. there needs to be an EXACT amount of oil in there, and it needs to be distributed correctly. then the EXACT amount of refrigerant needs to be in there.
all this needs to be in place in a CLEAN set of coils, and a working expansion valve.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #49  
Old 04-23-2011, 12:11 PM
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Having too much oil or refrigerant will work your system to death in short order... not to mention not providing the cooling you deserve...
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  #50  
Old 04-23-2011, 03:43 PM
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The idiot that filled the thing didn't add oil to the system. He put the hydrocarbon in in it's liquid form. I think I"ll suck the system out and refill it properly... It's about 70 pounds on the low side. manufacturer says that 60 shoudl be max...
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'95 S320 LWB
'87 300SDL
'04 E500 wagon 4matic

Last edited by amosfella; 04-23-2011 at 06:42 PM.
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  #51  
Old 04-24-2011, 12:06 AM
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... 70 on the low side at what temp on the inside? what blower speed? windows up or down? fan in front of the condenser? what temp outside?
see the problem? there's no way to know from only one reading. 70psi... without knowing all the other symptoms. what RPM is the motor at?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #52  
Old 04-24-2011, 01:40 AM
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4 degrees C at the coils according to the sensors. blower on max, windows up, condenser fan off, 12 C outside, idle, somewhere around 550-600.
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All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing.

Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor

'95 S320 LWB
'87 300SDL
'04 E500 wagon 4matic
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  #53  
Old 04-24-2011, 10:35 AM
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Windows are supposed to be DOWN..
you are not trying to cool the inside of your car..
you are trying to be sure the compressor and related stuff is working at its max....
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  #54  
Old 04-24-2011, 10:49 AM
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it's 53.6F outside, and you are trying to set pressures?
is the 4C at the output or input of the coils?
the txv is going to be seriously regulating the flow with low ambient temps. pressure is going to be irrelevant
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #56  
Old 05-03-2011, 07:59 AM
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found the bugger! for anyone looking for the high side / high pressure, service port / fitting on a w210 e300, e320, e430, it's located behind the fan shrouding under a small cover the to the left of the driver's headlight. attached is a picture of the cover in question and my fancy label i made.

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  #57  
Old 05-03-2011, 02:25 PM
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SERIOUSLY???
wtf is MB thinking with that?!!!
having both ports is sure helpful to working on a/c... of course, if some neophite hooked a can of freon to the high side they could easily kill themselves... I suppose it's to prevent that kind of thing...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #58  
Old 05-03-2011, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citationtech View Post
too lazy to yank the belly pan and and have a peak. low side is in plain sight. anyone know the freon weight and oil capacity also? much appreciated!
I may have missed your post earlier in this thread saying that you have flushed your system completely ?
If not... you risk overfilling your system by adding oil .... because there is no way to know how much is already in there.....and too much oil can wreck your cooling capacity and perhaps other things in your system.....
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  #59  
Old 05-06-2011, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffr0000 View Post
I'm trying to get the A/C working in my 1982 240d, I've got six cans of R12, and found 5psi on the low side and nothing on the high side. Reports are that previous (original) owner said it slowly stopped working over time, getting warmer and warmer until one day it no-longer cooled. Seems like maybe a leak on the high side is what I'll find. Curiously, it's reported to me that the car was NEVER converted to R134a, and yet I find the quick-connect style fittings that I associated with R134a on the car.

We're gonna stick vacuum on the system and see if it'll hold, if it holds over an hour's time I'll fill it with the R12 and run the sniffer over it to find if it's leaking. The only question in my mind is how do I tell what oil is in the system? If it has been converted then it should have PAG, which won't tolerate R12 AT ALL. Should I maybe just drain the oil and refill? How do I drain the oil?
Oh where oh where to start ?

You need to do some reading before you do anything else... a couple of days at the least...

I am just going to outline the problem areas you have already mentioned...

1. One hour under vacuum is not long enough to determine anything.

2. The proper test of a system is UNDER PRESSURE... which you did not mention...

3. If you stick that R12 into there ...what are you going to do when your less than effective leak test allows it to start leaking out ?

The alternative is to legally use 4 oz of R22... which can be detected by a sniffer ..with pressure provided by either nitrogen or argon... totally legal to vent after the test... and that way you do not have the loss of the R12 or the cost of some shop recovering it for you.

The oil is ' drained' by opening up the system and flushing with the proper fluid pushed by nitrogen or argon until the lines or items are clean... putting them back together with NYlog on the O rings at the joints.... and put the proper type and amount of cold flow oil Spread around the system ...
As far as anyone knows that is the only way to know how much oil is in the system total.... and that is important... too much can kill your cooling .. too little fry the compressor...

You can go to the site Aircondition.com
and start reading... you will find that all the things I suggest are conform to industry standards and conservative safe procedures both in terms of legality and cost.... it is just that the ac system is a very harsh place inside... and little things ( like not having any moisture ) are very very important...and must be done according the physics applicable...
Greg

Ps, You have no way of knowing until you check for leaks whether your leak is on the low or high side.... they equalize out between times of compressor use...
Anytime the system if opened up you need to replace the receiver - dryer.. it has moisture absorbing chemicals under the oil which , once filled up with moisture, can not be reconditioned ... thus new unit is needed...

This is not the whole story.. just wanted to wave a red flag in terms of proceeding with regards to the information gathering you need to do...
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  #60  
Old 05-06-2011, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffr0000 View Post
What I still don't understand is how to flush out the old oil. You say "open up the system" but don't indicate where. Do I do each individual component in the refrigeration system separately?
Indeed. Nobody says which fitting to undo, because you'll be disconnecting every one.

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