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  #31  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:23 PM
scottmcphee's Avatar
1987 w124 300D
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Maybe this over engineered oil filter system has something to do with the legendary longevity of these engines?
no doubt part of the equation!

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  #32  
Old 04-21-2011, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Does anyone know what the micron ratings are for the 2 filter sections?

1. Main
2. bypass

It sounds like they are physically separated and requires a seal (25) on the clean side so they get routed to the proper ports b (engine bearings) and c (oil pan).
There is 2 big long Oil Filter Threads (in the DIY section) that talk about them nearly to death.
Rather oddly the Filter Companies only can tell you what Micron level the Paper Element part of the Filter is.
The companies that make Filters that use "Cotton Jin" in the Upper/Larger/Finer part of the Filter seem to have no idea how well it works.

List of the Microns of some filters (617.952 types)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=247597&highlight=Bosch+Oil+filters&page=3
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  #33  
Old 04-21-2011, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Yes in principle you can take it apart.

I was planning to do so and then publish an expose... in my opinion there isn't enough information about the filter housing on the forum - I'm glad this is now in the process of being remedied.

Anyway I fell at the first hurdle - I couldn't replicate the special tool to remove the end screw caps to get into the guts. Also I'm running out of cash for this project and can't justify ripping that bit apart as well was the rest of the car. I'm quite sure I've found the one bit that is OK.

So funola if you have a spare one that you are planning to pull apart please post pictures of the guts and gore.
When you take apart the Filter take a look at the item 53 circled in Red. It is a plate that devides the inlet from the Thermostat and acts as a spring seat for both.

If you notice the plate has cutouts in it for Oil to flow. Also because of the cutouts the Thermostat cannot block the Oil Flow.

The Plate barely shows up in your scanned cross scection of the Oil filter.

In the last thumbnail item 53 is pointed to by the Blue Arrows.
The Oil Flow through the plate is the Red Arrows.
I am betting there is plenty of room for Oil circulation because the Thermostat cannot block the flow going through the plate and does not appear to block the Passage going towards the Filter Element.
Attached Thumbnails
Will I still Get Filtered Oil If I Block Off My Oil Cooler Lines or Ports?-oil-filter-housing-parts-b.jpg   Will I still Get Filtered Oil If I Block Off My Oil Cooler Lines or Ports?-oil-filter-housing-plate.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 04-21-2011 at 01:39 AM.
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  #34  
Old 04-21-2011, 03:11 AM
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The problem is that we can speculate and speculate until the cows come home.

We need some measurements.

Has anyone ever come across the oil equivalent of a leak down tester?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester

Does it exist or do I have to invent it?
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1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #35  
Old 04-21-2011, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
When you take apart the Filter take a look at the item 53 circled in Red. It is a plate that devides the inlet from the Thermostat and acts as a spring seat for both.

If you notice the plate has cutouts in it for Oil to flow. Also because of the cutouts the Thermostat cannot block the Oil Flow.

The Plate barely shows up in your scanned cross scection of the Oil filter.

In the last thumbnail item 53 is pointed to by the Blue Arrows.
The Oil Flow through the plate is the Red Arrows.
I am betting there is plenty of room for Oil circulation because the Thermostat cannot block the flow going through the plate and does not appear to block the Passage going towards the Filter Element.
It's hard to see the details from the poor drawings but it appears the holes in the plate (item 53) is to allow oil to flow to the thermostat (item 86). The actual seal / valve of the thermostat is at the tip (item 86).
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  #36  
Old 04-21-2011, 11:18 AM
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Does anyone know what the oil filter housing is like and what internal components it has if the vehicle came from the factory without an oil cooler?
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  #37  
Old 04-21-2011, 11:45 AM
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Thats a good question. All I know is the oil cooler line attachments are not drilled out. I would love too know what the difference is inside, but not enough too take either of mine apart
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  #38  
Old 04-21-2011, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Thats a good question. All I know is the oil cooler line attachments are not drilled out. I would love too know what the difference is inside, but not enough too take either of mine apart
So you've got both then? An OM617 with an oil cooler and one without the oil cooler then?

I know it is difficult considering how far apart we live but just park both cars outside my house for bit won't you... (I don't need the keys!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
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1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #39  
Old 04-21-2011, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Does anyone know what the oil filter housing is like and what internal components it has if the vehicle came from the factory without an oil cooler?
I don't but my guess would be that it is the same but without the control valve and thermostat.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #40  
Old 04-21-2011, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
So you've got both then? An OM617 with an oil cooler and one without the oil cooler then?

I know it is difficult considering how far apart we live but just park both cars outside my house for bit won't you... (I don't need the keys!)
Actually my Euro 85 240D was imported from Rotterdam, had a plaque on it "J. VanDisk&Zn.B.V.,Rotterdam" with the MB star so I guess that was the dealer. I dont know when, I've owned it for about ten years.

I put a Euro O/F housing on an 80 engine that I rebuilt for my 79 240D a few years ago and the 617 in my TD, of course has an oil cooler.

My cars are under cover and guarded with Bangle tiger traps and the trunk monkeys are kept well fed
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
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  #41  
Old 04-22-2011, 08:43 AM
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Cloak and dagger @ peachparts.com

The following information has fallen into my lap.

I think you might find it interesting even though the author felt it was repeating what has already been said: I think it gives a bit of an insight into how Mercedes have tackled the design of other engines - even if they are petrol and not diesel.

We diesel heads like to think that we are alone and special - but the manufacturer will of course use the knowledge / components used in other products... so here goes:-



Hello Army,quite an interesting and important discussion !
Managed to find a pic of what the most recent oil thermostat supplied by MB looks like( MB 1171800175):



…this one is used in OM616,617,M110(vertical thermostat arrangement),M102,M116,M117

Source: http://www.hehlhans.de/tipp98-8.htm#b12

Just for a comparison,this is the thermostat of a M110 engine(horizontal thermostat arrangement, see pics)-A1101800075(used only on M110 engine).



The more interesting scheme is that of M110(horizontal t-stat):



Note the special cutouts of the t-stat control valve, serving to divert the oil flow as the element expands. The M110 oil filter top also has a small bore (f) from the oil channel to the filer bottom(my guess is that it serves the same purpose as the small space the OM617 t-stat valve leaves-to compensate for a possibly hindered flow thru the rad at low ambient temperatures because of the quicker cooled oil).But the small bore (f) on the M110 filter top cannot guarantee adequate flow to the filter element when the t-stat is fully open AND the outlet to the cooler is plugged. Moreover, the by-pass valve on M110 is located in the oil filter top section(and has no direct entry to the oil coming from the oil channel-the oil has first to pass thru the t-stat arrangement or ,God forbid,the small bypass bore !).Block the cooler, let the oil heat up, rev it -disaster strikes(hence the warning in the FSM).

Here is M110 filter with vertical t-stat setup(om617 t-stat):



As you suggested, although the OM616/617 by-pass valve is exposed directly to the incoming oil from the pump, it’s better with the oil radiator to remove the t-stat too (or connect the outlet and inlet bores by a tube) in order to prevent the introduction of unfiltered oil.



The schematics and pictures are of particular interest

Enjoy!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #42  
Old 04-22-2011, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Maybe this over engineered oil filter system has something to do with the legendary longevity of these engines?
You could also argue if you take away the over engineered systems then you end up with a bloody Renault!


Ahhhhhhhhh why buy German and turn it into a French car? Pah!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 04-23-2011 at 10:35 AM.
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  #43  
Old 05-17-2011, 03:28 PM
macdoe
 
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I was wondering if you guys know whether it matters which of the oil cooler hoses went where? By this, I mean you have two oil cooler hoses coming from the oil filter tower going to the oil cooler....one goes to the top fitting on the oil cooler and one goes to the bottom fitting on the cooler. I took off the oil cooler lines to drain the oil cooler last night.What would happen if you got them mixed up and reversed them?

I just cut open my NAPA gold oil filter last night. I changed to a Baldwin filter...it says made in the U.S.A on it and was half the price. They are different, in the way they are constructed, but I am not sure if the difference is significant or not. The tube that goes through the middle of the Napa filter is hollow all the way through, whereas this baldwin filter is split in the middle with a rubber boss so that the rod from the filter tower lid goes through. I'll add some pictures of what I mean when the Balwin filter comes out.
I drained the oil cooler when I did this latest oil change and when I went to check the lines coming to the oil cooler.... they felt cold. I went for quite a test drive and I don't think that I am getting oil to the oil cooler and am wondering if I got the lines reversed or if this Baldwin filter design has something to do with it?

Also did a coolant flush and changed to Zerex G-o5 and adjusted the valves. The engine felt hotter than usual. but shows normal coolant temp.? maybe the oil cooler is air locked? Is that even possible?
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  #44  
Old 05-18-2011, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoe View Post
I was wondering if you guys know whether it matters which of the oil cooler hoses went where? By this, I mean you have two oil cooler hoses coming from the oil filter tower going to the oil cooler....one goes to the top fitting on the oil cooler and one goes to the bottom fitting on the cooler. I took off the oil cooler lines to drain the oil cooler last night.What would happen if you got them mixed up and reversed them?

I just cut open my NAPA gold oil filter last night. I changed to a Baldwin filter...it says made in the U.S.A on it and was half the price. They are different, in the way they are constructed, but I am not sure if the difference is significant or not. The tube that goes through the middle of the Napa filter is hollow all the way through, whereas this baldwin filter is split in the middle with a rubber boss so that the rod from the filter tower lid goes through. I'll add some pictures of what I mean when the Balwin filter comes out.
I drained the oil cooler when I did this latest oil change and when I went to check the lines coming to the oil cooler.... they felt cold. I went for quite a test drive and I don't think that I am getting oil to the oil cooler and am wondering if I got the lines reversed or if this Baldwin filter design has something to do with it?

Also did a coolant flush and changed to Zerex G-o5 and adjusted the valves. The engine felt hotter than usual. but shows normal coolant temp.? maybe the oil cooler is air locked? Is that even possible?
I doubt if swapping the hoses at the oil cooler end would make much of a difference - but I'm surprised you've got enough hose to do that.

I'm very interested to see pictures of the oil filters when you get them dissected.

There is a procedure in the FSM to check whether the thermostat is working or not chap 18-120 (one whole long page long). Basically you stick a long thermometer into the dip stick tube and see if you get a sudden change in temperature at about 95 degrees C

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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