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  #1  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:23 PM
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Wiper stopped working

I got it apart and this is what I found.

Linkage on the passenger side popped off.


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  #2  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:29 PM
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So I pulled a used one from a parts car and took a video with the bad one laying on top.

Click to play!
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:42 PM
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After putting the panels, grills, and the wipers on, it was hitting the moulding and parked in the middle of the windshield! I had to take it all apart again and adjust. The adjustment IS at the motor (13 mm nut). Don't forget to adjust and test it first before putting it back together!
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
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  #4  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:45 PM
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Does anyone know where I can buy those round plastic rivets for the center metal panel?
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83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
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  #5  
Old 04-26-2011, 12:13 AM
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How did you remove the plastic rivits? cut the heads off?

To remove them, use a small punch, or cut off the point on a nail the same size, and drive out the center pin. then you will be able to remove the rivit head. retrieve the center pins once the plate is removed. they can be reused. push in the rivit part, push in the center pin and tap it in.

Probably get new one`s from the dealer or Phill. I have removed some for spares at Pick N Pull.

It`s always good to take a picture as to how the linkage is attached before removing it. I went through this same thing trying to get the wiper lined up and working. I finally went to pnp and removed the plate and took a picture to get it right.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2011, 09:49 AM
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I removed the rivets properly by punching the center pins out. They are old and brittle and 2 of them suffered a broken leg. I'll go take the rivets from my 240D parts car and hope I'll get a few good ones.
My guess as to why plastic rivets was used rather than screws is rust prevention. Those plastic grills really work to keep leaves out as there weren't any. There's a drain slot in the metal panel at the passenger wiper pivot which I wasn't aware of which had a lot of mud buildup. I'll make a point of keeping it clear.

Taking a pic is a good idea and will get you close, but you will likely still have to make a fine adjustment at the motor, which has a splined taper like the wipers.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
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83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #7  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:42 AM
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Ok, I forgive you with the broken rivits as you removed them properly. I guess they will break sometimes with the age and if the car is a southern car with the heat.

I had mine apart on the 240 last year right after we got it, to check things out. It sure had an accumulation of dirt after 30 years. got it all washed out, greased the linkages, and threw it all back together.

Had a GTG to go to the next day, and before we left, realized I forgot to attach the wipers. so threw them in the trunk, and off we go.

In the afternoon about the time it broke up it started to rain, so we sat it out in a Mcdonalds having coffee waiting for a break. threw them on real quick and off we go. well the darn things went down first then up a short ways, and back down hitting the window seal and hitting the paint .

so finally, set them up high, and they went down and 3/4 ways across the window on the up swing all the way home for the 100mile drive.

After seeing the PNP picture of how they are set on the motor, I had the little lever set on the motor splines wrong. as I remember it is suppose to be set parrell not in a up or down angle.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #8  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Does anyone know where I can buy those round plastic rivets for the center metal panel?
Dealer bit - I've been searching and searching for another source though... no luck yet - when I find one though I'll let you all know.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



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  #9  
Old 04-26-2011, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Dealer bit - I've been searching and searching for another source though... no luck yet - when I find one though I'll let you all know.
Thanks Army, I'll check to see how much they charge. Anyone want to take a guess?

Charlie, what did you grease the linkages on the connecting rods (as the FSM calls them). They are rubber bushings over a ball socket and the FSM does not say to lube them with anything, same with the wiper pivots. Mine (wiper pivots, not the connecting rod sockets) were clean and w/o play. I think they are well proteced by that plastic cover which snaps on tightly which seals out the elements.

I forgot to mention the failure mode of mine. Wipers was running fine all of a sudden the passenger wiper stopped, the drivers wiper kept going and a minute then it also stopped. What happened was the passenger side connecting rod popped off which caused that wiper to stop. The driver's side kept going until the connecting rod jammed (as shown in pic). It was jammed pretty tight against the cowling. I had to pry it off with a lot of leverage.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #10  
Old 04-26-2011, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Thanks Army, I'll check to see how much they charge. Anyone want to take a guess?

...
I think I've already bought some so I'll abstain.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #11  
Old 04-26-2011, 11:27 AM
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$1.65 each at one of 2 local dealers that usually have better prices!! A part like that shouldn't cost more than 25 cents.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #12  
Old 04-27-2011, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
$1.65 each at one of 2 local dealers that usually have better prices!! A part like that shouldn't cost more than 25 cents.
I agree but I think they call it supply and demand - I'm still looking for alternatives here - If I find something I'll let you know. I've come close to what we want on some "electronics and more" type places on the internet. But no joy just yet. It has to be out there.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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