Valve Adjustment, Woodbridge or Alexandria, VA - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 05-03-2011, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCSC2

I am open to learning how to do the adjustment and anything else. A person has to with these cars. I called a shop I used before to do the adjustment. They told me point blank the car was to old. The mechanic that knew the cars has retired from the shop. The problem I have is that lack the confidence needed to open up the top of the motor. I have learned a lot on this forum on how to fix things and have had success. I gotta suck it up and do it to keep the beast running! Thank you everyone for your input. Appreciate it!

http://www.dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm
here is a good place to start to learn these cars' valve adjustments...
it's not perfect, but it's very good at familiarizing yourself with the method.

leathermang · #17 05-03-2011, 02:13 PM

VStech, I was not currently calling you old.... just wanted you to ease into old age already having accepted that old mechanics should not retire....

leathermang · #18 05-03-2011, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

http://www.dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm
here is a good place to start to learn these cars' valve adjustments...
it's not perfect, but it's very good at familiarizing yourself with the method.

Since you know it is not perfect...
Wouldn't this be a good time to list what you do not consider correct ?
When you are sending people TO IT ?

vstech · #19 05-03-2011, 02:18 PM

I use two different sets of feeler gauges a straight set for the intake, and a bent set for the exhaust.
he recommends the power steering nut to turn the engine over... I recommend a starter bump switch, or a 27mm socket and a ratchet for turning the CRANKSHAFT bolt so you don't damage the PS pump shaft...

he stresses the 1:00 position for the lobes, but it's not needed, as long as the lobe is pointed away from the follower it's ok to set the lash.
on the valve cover, either MB never put washers on the valve cover nuts, or P.O. users, mechanics etc... lost them. I like to get a set of 10mm Stainless steel washers and place them under the nuts to keep from galling up the valve cover.
cleaning all oil and gook from the head and the valve cover is very important, and using a NEW high quality valve cover gasket is also mandatory.
I recommend taking a well lit photo of the engine bay , and everything you plan to take apart before you take it apart. it'll make it much easier to put back together that way.

vstech · #20 05-03-2011, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Since you know it is not perfect...
Wouldn't this be a good time to list what you do not consider correct ?
When you are sending people TO IT ?

hey, it takes us old timers a little while to type a list of changes...

okyoureabeast · #21 05-03-2011, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Do you have a video camera ?

Ever heard of Youtube.com ?

We need some of those types of videos...

Problems are most likely to show up with a ' new to me ' car...after getting the first valve adjustment done I did not have the problems with those rear valves ... So I suspect that some of these people who " POOH POOH " having the wrenches specified in the FSM ... simply acquired a car which had been regularly maintained over the PO's time with it....
If you find ONE really hard stuck valve adjustment cap or locking nut... you will understand why that lower special ( THIRD HAND ) wrench is important.
Also the fact that it sits in place by itself... using that little fold down leg.. that is half the trick..

Fair enough bud, I'll get a hold of my little brother's flip video and a tri-pod and do it up when I get home this summer.

After I did my first adjustment I found that none of the valves were tight a year later. In fact they were all well within spec

vstech · #22 05-03-2011, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okyoureabeast

Fair enough bud, I'll get a hold of my little brother's flip video and a tri-pod and do it up when I get home this summer.

After I did my first adjustment I found that none of the valves were tight a year later. In fact they were all well within spec

... how many miles on the motor after that year? the recommendation is 15K miles... time is irrelevant to the valve adjust interval. driving habits, fuel quality, oil change interval all affect it somewhat though...

okyoureabeast · #23 05-03-2011, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

... how many miles on the motor after that year? the recommendation is 15K miles... time is irrelevant to the valve adjust interval. driving habits, fuel quality, oil change interval all affect it somewhat though...

Judging by my oil changes it was over due by almost three thousand miles. I drive like a typical 21 year old guy from the North East. Like a psycho

It's part of what I do when I come home for Thanksgiving. I'd rather take the cover off and know that it's all in spec than take a chance when I need the car the most.

leathermang · #24 05-03-2011, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okyoureabeast

Fair enough bud, I'll get a hold of my little brother's flip video and a tri-pod and do it up when I get home this summer.

After I did my first adjustment I found that none of the valves were tight a year later. In fact they were all well within spec

First , I am glad you understand that you need a tripod.... some videos can make you seasick watching them otherwise...
Second, good extra lighting makes all the difference... particularly the smaller the lens size...
Third, it is probably best to shoot the video and then add your narration latter.. very hard to do good speech unless you have a mic attached a fixed distance from your mouth....

When the valve adjustment holds well... there is the possibility that someone among the past owners took the suggestion in the FSM to renew the valve caps and locking nuts... that can really make a difference on something that takes that kind of pounding all the time the engine is running.

HEY, since you are fast at valve adjustments... how about a video on installing valve stem seals ? You are SO CLOSE to that when you have unbuttoned to do the valve lash adjustment..... and I do not know of ANY videos for our cars showing how to do that ... What do you say ????

You would be an instant HERO given how many of our cars have that burst of smoke upon startup indicating they need new ones...
I will pay for the seals and the new valve cover gasket....

okyoureabeast · #25 05-03-2011, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

First , I am glad you understand that you need a tripod.... some videos can make you seasick watching them otherwise...
Second, good extra lighting makes all the difference... particularly the smaller the lens size...
Third, it is probably best to shoot the video and then add your narration latter.. very hard to do good speech unless you have a mic attached a fixed distance from your mouth....

When the valve adjustment holds well... there is the possibility that someone among the past owners took the suggestion in the FSM to renew the valve caps and locking nuts... that can really make a difference on something that takes that kind of pounding all the time the engine is running.

HEY, since you are fast at valve adjustments... how about a video on installing valve stem seals ? You are SO CLOSE to that when you have unbuttoned to do the valve lash adjustment..... and I do not know of ANY videos for our cars showing how to do that ... What do you say ????

You would be an instant HERO given how many of our cars have that burst of smoke upon startup indicating they need new ones...
I will pay for the seals and the new valve cover gasket....

Might as well get four cameras, a sound recordist, and a director. Let's make this "Adam's Garage"!

For reals though, I won't have time to do it until I get home. In case you've noticed I have been living in Los Angeles for the past four months so my equipment, time, and space is limited.

I would love to be able to renew the valve seals though as well as the fudged up locking/adjusting nuts on the first and second cylinder.