You asked my opinion and I answered it to my best reasoning.

My statement that the 4 speed and 617 turbo is a good combo is from personally driving one. Not a factory built, but one that is adapted.


That is a staunch purist. Not thinking beyond the scope of possibilities. :)


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I have that combination and it's currently my daily driver. I cannot imagine why Mercedes did not offer this as a factory option, as it is simply awesome:)

"My statement that the 4 speed and 617 turbo is a good combo is from personally driving one. Not a factory built, but one that is adapted. "-- Deliveryvalve

"I have that combination and it's currently my daily driver. I cannot imagine why Mercedes did not offer this as a factory option, as it is simply awesome " -- Skippy

So, you two have the perfect cars.... no unresolved vibrations , no excessive clutch wear , no downsides......

Did both of you use the 617 flywheels for the conversion ?

I used the 615 flywheel, clutch, 4 speed. This is in a 220 car.. works awesome Very fun to drive.. Had to raise the ratio in the rear.

What did you raise the rear end ratio to ?
Did you have to do that oil filter move on your car ?

Not my car. I only dove it a few times. I didn't notice any vibrations. The car has a 616 flywheel, 240d auto tranny mount and driveshaft balancer. I going to venture to guess it's a 300SD balancer since no bending of the 616 linkages were done, but I could be wrong.





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Give Kreen a try first. If that doesnt work, Id look for a donor engine. No big deal.

I cant remember what I ended up using. I think its like a 3.07? Maybe 3.5 something. The 220 had a 4.10 to start with.

The final drive ratio was the whole reason I ended up re-powering the car. The poor 615 engine was up in the 3k range and barely at 60.. One day she stopped starting, because of low compression, im sure the regular high r's had something to do with that.

The little tires that were on the car didnt help either.. Took the aluminum wheels off a 240 car with bigger tires and put them on.

Now I can do 70 even 80 no problem. And lots of power, can haul ass up even the steepest grades.

Yea I did have to move the oil filter.. Just used a remote ph8a base, and made a plate with some 1/2 npt bungs to bolt over the filter housing flange. Also used an oil thermostat for the oil cooler.

Well it ran last night for about 30 seconds. I bump started it down this single lane private road I live on. The motor was rough as hell and pouring out more smoke than an Amsterdam hash bar. 75% - 100% throttle was required to keep it running at what I am guessing was under 2000 rpm. I had oil pressure so thought I would let it get up to operating temperature, see if things cleared up. However my older neighbor came running up to the car, wine glass in hand, and said she was going to call the police and the fire department. At that point I let the car shut off and tried to explain to her although it looked like fire, it would not cause a fire. She was less than convinced.:o

Guess I will give it another try Monday and stay on my driveway.

Haver you run a compression test? Do you have good fuel in it? Rough running and lots of smoke might indicate a fuel timing issue or even a cam timing issue.

Even if one of these old diesels is so worn you have to pull it to get it started it should run smoothly if all other things are in order.

Has it been run on WVO?

cold 225 225 275 285

new fuel 1 gallon can

unless harmonic balancer has been somehow removed and put back in place incorrectly all timing is good.

It hasn't been run in x number of years so I was thinking / hoping stuck rings hoping that getting everything up to operating temp and a diesel purge might loosen rings and perhaps clean things up.

Not that I know of

Those compression numbers are good enough to start and run according to my old chiltons manual. cold.