So while my new to me car (1975 W115 300d) is down with various cleaning and repairs, I thought I would squirt some MM oil in open GP ports. From what I have read, it sounds like this is most effective over a week's time and important to rotate crank every few days to distribute MM oil and assist in unsticking rings. This car sat for at least one year and I have zero history on the engine. I have adjusted valves, treated fuel, removed battery to charge and desulphate, bead blasted battery tray and recoated with POR 15, will change fuel filters and diesel purge after start up. I will eject any remaining MM oil out GP ports by spinning crank with starter motor and GP's removed. Does this procedure sound reasonable for a car that has been sitting? I will change oil after start up, might even drain a little oil and add two quarts of ATF while driving gently for a couple of hundred miles and then drain and add new oil/filter. I have read here that ATF can assist in cleaning up internals on these older diesels. I will also run several tanks through car of dieselkleen treated diesel -should be interesting, wish me luck!

I would not drive it with some ATF in the oil. Just put motor oil in. Otherwise sounds good.

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1977 240D turbo

X2 on what 47dodge said.

I did the MM soak on my Volvo and it got rid of the hazy gray smoke I had all of the time the Engine was running; after the Car sat 1 year and I drove 6 months with a Thermostat that was opening too soon.
The MM cured that.

I did the soak on the Mercedes while I struggled with my B2 Piston and Drive Shaft issues. However, it seemed to have no effect (I was wishing for less Blow-by).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

On your first start, I'd also recommend holding down the stop valve while you crank, allowing oil pressure to build while cranking the motor (relatively) slowly. Once the oil pressure gauge hits 3, let her rip. You can never be too cautious when starting a presumably dry motor that has sat for a long time.

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-1985 300TD - 324k mi on chassis. MB "Tauschaggregat" 617 motor + 4-speed conversion
Alaska Roadtrip 2009
-2002 E320 Wagon - 197k mi
-1998 E320 Wagon - 310k mi - retired

I let me 307d sit for a year twice and just started it up and drove it like I parked it the day before. No problems.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Great idea, thanks!

I used ATF to soak the pistons and rings with a head removed as I can't get MM here - it did quite a good job of cleaning everything up.

Unfortunately (for my wallet at least) I had to go deeper and strip the bottom part of the engine too for machining so I never got to run the engine with ATF on any of the surfaces.

I'm interested to hear why MM is OK and ATF isn't - I've never even seen MM - is it of a similar viscosity?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

yep, very light like ATF. Many mechanics like to use it for assembly oiling after rebuilding and other machining operations -good stuff!