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  #1  
Old 05-07-2011, 08:00 PM
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It won't crank!!!!!!!!!!!!

I tried to crank up my 300D turbo in my 240d today. All electrical seems to be 100 percent but it won't crank. So I went back to the switch that I had a lot of problems getting apart when I got the car and the ignition switch was really messed up. I had a heck of a job getting the loom out of the back of that old switch. Now I have a new lock and key, new ignition switch body, but I can't get the plug to lock up on this new one. I thought I had it locked in, but after it wouldn't crank, I went back and pulled on the plug in part in the rear of the ignition switch body and it came right out. Well, I will take it apart again and with the paper clip to hold the piece down, try to get it to lock. Any other ideas.

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Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:59 AM
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Hi Jim,

Are you sure it will actually work?

By pass the whole starter system to test?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/298080-stuck-storm-comming-how-directly-jump-starter-post2708674.html#post2708674
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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Old 05-08-2011, 08:48 AM
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Well I am sure it does not crank, and the 240D wiring does not have the little junction box to jump it from under the hood. Now my thinking is the starter function is eliminated because my harness is not locked to the switch body. Why? Is the problem in the switch body or the connector on the loom? Or am I not installing it correctly, I understand that it must be connected while the detent button is pushed down with a paper clip just like with installing the outer steel ring. I will go back and try to connect them.
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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #4  
Old 05-08-2011, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
Well I am sure it does not crank, and the 240D wiring does not have the little junction box to jump it from under the hood. .........
Make a junction block then.
Use an alligator clip lead on the solenoid (small wire terminal) and connect to batt +. It will crank.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:17 PM
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Well yes, that would work. But Funola, that is not really the problem. The problem I think is in the ignition switch (or the harness end that connects to it) and is related to the fact that my harness connector does not seem able to lock up to the ignition switch. I have the little white circular thing in the back of the switch and it turns when I turn the key. But there is nothing I can see in the harness plug besides the 7 terminal posts and a rather large rectangular hole (opening). I had a real problem getting it apart and I wonder now if I broke it and a piece is missing. So I will continue searching. Let me know if you find something.
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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #6  
Old 05-08-2011, 05:57 PM
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I have two questions: This is on my W123, 240D with 7 post type plug.
1. How is that harness end locked into the body of the ignition switch?
2. If it is not locked in, but just plugged in, would everything work except the start function?
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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #7  
Old 05-08-2011, 06:29 PM
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Not all the harnesses are locked in. I bought a new ignition switch assembly for the 84SD and it did not have the locking feature. From what I learned when switching out that assembly, the switch should work whether locked or not. All the locking assembly does is deter thieves by stopping them from pulling off the harness and jumping the terminals as far as I can tell.

It is locked via a T fitting which slides into the plastic end of the harness and turns to lock it in place.
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
Well yes, that would work. But Funola, that is not really the problem. The problem I think is in the ignition switch (or the harness end that connects to it) and is related to the fact that my harness connector does not seem able to lock up to the ignition switch. I have the little white circular thing in the back of the switch and it turns when I turn the key. But there is nothing I can see in the harness plug besides the 7 terminal posts and a rather large rectangular hole (opening). I had a real problem getting it apart and I wonder now if I broke it and a piece is missing. So I will continue searching. Let me know if you find something.
Well you did say "the 240D wiring does not have the little junction box to jump it from under the hood" so I thought you have no way to get the car started so I thought of a way for you/

To get the keyed harness connector to pull out of the electrical ignition switch, you have to turn the key to the same position to remove the tumbler. If you don't do that, there's a chance of breaking something.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:53 PM
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Perhaps I am making to much of the problem. As Kerry mentioned, this switch does function correctly without being "locked" in. Why it does not start has me puzzled, but I could not start this engine in the 300D body either. It just quit one day many years ago and I rigged up a push button starter which worked very well. Perhaps with my limited knowledge of electrical circuits, I might be able to rig a push button start for this car also. It does save a lot of wear on the ignition switch and it is very easy to install in the dash just to the left of the ignition. If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know.
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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:21 PM
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Do yo have a DVM to check voltages? Do you have a wiring diagram? THe starting circuit is very simple. With a wiring diagram and a volt meter you should be able to pinpoint where the problem is.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #11  
Old 05-09-2011, 03:52 AM
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Starter switch picture

Hi Jim,

Here's a picture of my starter switch - if it is the same type as yours I can pull bits apart and take some more pictures if you need. My dash is out at the moment so it isn't too much of a bother.

Attached Thumbnails
It won't crank!!!!!!!!!!!!-w123_starter_switch.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 05-09-2011, 07:45 AM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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the problem could be the "Not in park safety bypass" as mercedes calls in instead of neutral safety switch on the transmission. Id check that too.

When you moved the engine into the 240, did it come with the transmission and did you wire this switch in or bypass it? Otherwise it won't do anything, will totally prevent a crank. Im pretty sure its a solid purple and purple and white wire going to the tranny that you can wire together or jump to bypass it for testing

I hate that little plastic boss on the back of the old ignition switches, id deep six that if I were you. My ignition jammed, and that plastic boss made removing that plug next to impossible.

A new electrical ignition switch for 30-40 bucks will probably not have that boss, and ensure the switch is good. Worth it in my opinion to remove that feature if you ever have an ignition problem where the key won't turn
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  #13  
Old 05-09-2011, 12:26 PM
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I think the neutral safety switch, (the lockout) is a feature only on the automatic transmissions. This 240D had the manual, and I just added the 300D Turbo. Not finished yet, but it is looking good. Why it won't crank on the ignition switch, I don't know. Funny thing is, it wouldn't crank in the 300D either. It did crank alright for about a year, then it quit and I added a push button starter just like on my old time, greatly missed 51 Mercury! I think the 51 Mercury was the most beautiful car Ford Motor Company ever built, and for an old flathead, it even was a decent driver. Memories!!!
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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2011, 12:52 PM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
I think the neutral safety switch, (the lockout) is a feature only on the automatic transmissions. This 240D had the manual, and I just added the 300D Turbo. Not finished yet, but it is looking good. Why it won't crank on the ignition switch, I don't know. Funny thing is, it wouldn't crank in the 300D either. It did crank alright for about a year, then it quit and I added a push button starter just like on my old time, greatly missed 51 Mercury! I think the 51 Mercury was the most beautiful car Ford Motor Company ever built, and for an old flathead, it even was a decent driver. Memories!!!
intermittent Starter maybe? Could need a good whack, might be sticky.

On the 240 manual, the neutral safety switch should be on the driver side of the stick mechanism right under the center console. If you pull the boot, you can access it right there or see it, the stick has a little boss that pushes in the plunger on the switch which is bracketed to the plastic molding that holds the whole mechanism. but from what you say, likely not the problem.
Easy to verify though if the solution does not present itself

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